Posts Tagged ‘trick’

EYE SHADOW ENLIGHTENMENT

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

I learned this little trick from my idol Mary Greenwell when we were on a press tour in Rome, Madrid and London (she was doing Cate Blanchett’s makeup and I was doing Geoffrey Rush’s grooming for Elizabeth The Golden Age). I love that it’s incredibly subtle but brings the lid to life with a tiny twinkle when you blink or look down. No glitter. Nothing to hit you over the head. Just a hint of frost to catch and reflect the light. Here’s how:

TBDSecretLidPop2

TOOLS:

  1. Your Favorite Eye Shadow — I used this lavender shadow quad ($$$) on Eva because the shades of purple are universally gorgeous on every skin tone but this lilac one ($) is less of an splurge!
  2. A Lighter Shadow For The Pop — pick a slightly frosted shade so it catches the light like this one in Ice ($$) or this one ($).
  3. A Slightly Darker Shadow To Wet and Use As A Liner — I used the darker purple shadow from the palette.
  4. Your Favorite Lash Curler — I know everyone loves the Shu Uemura Curler and I love it too because it’s ultra-wide, but this one has the strongest pinch I’ve ever found!
  5. Your Favorite Mascara — I used this favorite one on Eva to really separate and coat each lash.

TBDSecretLidPopSTEPS

STEPS:

  1. Sweep the lavender/lilac shade all over the lid and crease.
  2. Trace it along the bottom lashes as well.
  3. Press your finger into the frosted lighter shade and stamp it on the center of your lid. You might have to do it twice to really make it pop!
  4. Wet a liner brush and dip it in the darker shadow. Trace it along the upper lashline. You can also wing it out like I did.
  5. Pinch the lashes with the curler.
  6. Finish with a couple coats of mascara.

Heaven! And speaking of, I was lucky enough to convince the heavenly Eva Amurri Martino to model for us! You probably recognize her from Undateable, Californication and Saved, or because she looks a lot like her mom Susan Sarandon! She just launched her new lifestyle blog Happily Eva After and it will quickly become one of your favorite reads. So good!

QUICK TIP: CONTOURING

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

Over the last few years, contouring has become mainstream after decades of being a secret weapon that makeup artists learned in school to add dimensions back to the face after creating a blank canvas with foundation. I’m not gonna lie, it has gotten a little extreme for my taste but if you’re reading this here, your taste is a little more natural like mine. Anyway, today we’re sharing a contouring must that a lot of people don’t know about! When you sculpt your cheeks, it’s prettiest if you don’t bring the contour shading too far in. Why not? Because it ages you in a very unflattering way. We want to hollow out our cheeks but we need the suppleness of the apples to look healthy and young! And the easiest way to achieve this is to imagine a line from the end of your brow straight down your cheek then simply don’t cross it. Some makeup artists place the line at the arch of the brow, but my mentor and idol Mary Greenwell taught me one afternoon in Madrid never  to bring it in that far, and I agree. And you don’t have to hold the brush up every time! Quickly you’ll be able to eye it. Here’s how:

TOOLS:

  • Your Favorite Contour Cream — I was so excited when this cream palette came out and it’s $40 off right now!
  • or Your Favorite Contour Powder — This iconic contour & highlighting palette has everything you’ll ever need in shades that work gorgeously on most skin tones; while this duo works well with your budget!
  • A Flat-Headed Contour Brush — I love this dual-ended slenderizer brush that really presses the product into the skin.
  • A Densely-Packed Blush Brush — the wavy soft fibers of this brush makes it like nothing you’ve ever used before. The best!

STEPS:

  1. Hold a brush or a pen/pencil perpendicularly straight down from the end of your brow as demonstrated with Lacy above. Make a mental note where it crosses your cheek area. If you need more than a mental image, you can use your non-dominant hand to hold the brush in place while you use your dominant hand to contour, but it doesn’t have to be exact or anything, so just eye it and you’re good.
  2. Now that you know how far to bring it, follow the hollow of your cheek (just under the cheekbone) inward and stop where the imaginary line is.
  3. Go back in the other direction and bring it all the way to the ear area so there isn’t a blank space there.
  4. Switch to the unused brush and blend it in by gently swirling over it until it’s half the intensity it was originally.

TBDImaginaryContourLineFINAL

NO MORE MASCARA MARKS!

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

There’s nothing that bums me out more than trying really hard not to get mascara on my lid and it still happening! Argh! But who has the time to get a business card, guitar pick or another prop to use as a guard? Not me. So I figured out a way to apply it without getting a mark on the lid. Not one mark! Every single time! Here’s the trick:

thebeautydepartment.com mascara application trickDONT

When you apply with both eyes open, the bristles sneak through the lashes and end up on your lid. How uncouth! But do we really need to see with both eyes open? Nope. You can use the other eye to see what you’re doing. You have to trust me on this one. When you close the eye that you are applying mascara to, it will NOT get on your lid. But there are a few techniques to do it.

thebeautydepartment.com mascara application trickDO

STEPS:

  1. Close the eye that you are about to apply mascara to. Keep the other eye open obviously!
  2. Raise the eyebrow of the closed eye.
  3. Now wiggle the wand through the lashes from root to tip repeatedly.
  4. Open the eye and gently stamp the root.

CURRENT TBD FAVORITE MASCARAS:

  • Brook is using this miracle mascara above, which just might be better than sex!
  • We also really love this curling mascara because it really holds the curl after you curl them (and in some cases, replaces the lash curler).

Can you please try it today or tomorrow and let us know if it worked for you too? Thank you!! Oh and for those of you who love to know everything, this is the olive shadow quad that I used!

FOUNDATION SECRET

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

It’s easy to want to paint foundation on with a flat foundation brush like we would a canvas on an easel. But when we do that, the foundation just sits on top of the skin instead of becoming one with it. Then it comes off on our phones (the worst!) or friends’ shirts when we hug them when it doesn’t have to be that way. If you switch tools and techniques, you’ll be much happier with the results. Change #1: switch from a typical foundation brush to a fluffy foundation brush. Change #2: instead of painting it on with a heavy hand, swirl it on with a light touch, building in layers. You want the pressure to be super light, as if you were an archaeologist dusting off an artifact. This ensures that you applying the thinnest layer possible as you go. Then if the area needs more coverage, you go back over it a few times until it’s covered. You’ll be surprised how many areas that you won’t have to go back over! And you won’t look like you’re wearing a mask. Here’s how:

FAVORITE FLUFFY BRUSHES:

FAVORITE FOUNDATIONS:

  • I splurged a little with this foundation that has the perfect balance of coverage and lasting power, and has the best range of shades of any foundations out there.
  • I also really love this oil-free  long-wear one for its budget-friendly price and gorgeous finish.

STEPS:

  1. Pump a few drops of foundation onto the palm of your hand or a glass palette.
  2. Dip the fluffy brush into the product and pull it across to thin it out as I demonstrated above.
  3. Start lightly swirly across your cheek. Don’t stroke hard! Lightly build!
  4. Continue along your forehead.
  5. Don’t forget your chin and neck!
  6. Go back over any areas that need more coverage.

Then spot conceal any problem areas with concealer and finish with a dusting of powder.