Posts Tagged ‘thebeautydepartment.com’

LANGUAGE OF LAYERS (part 2)

Welcome back, pretty people! Earlier this week we did part 1 of this post which was all about what to ask for when you go see your hairstylist for a haircut. We covered the most wanted haircuts for fine, normal, thin, straight, slightly wavy textures and told you what to ask for to get the most out of your salon visit. In this post, we’re talking about thicker, coarser, wavier, curlier textures. Keep in mind, you’ll always want to listen to what your hairstylist has to say because we didn’t all go to the same school and mine is not the end-all-be-all opinion. Different haircutters go through different training so ask for what you want and then be open minded to what your pro has to say, since they’re the ones with eyes on your particular head of hair. A good haircutter should have no problem doing a proper consulation with you beofre you get shampooed. You’re probably paying a decent amount, if not a lot, and you should get what you want. That being said, let’s talk options!

ASK FOR:

  • some weight to be taken out of the ends.
  • some layers to be added without looking chunky. I usally like to cut layers on hair like this and then I go back in using the thinning shears to take out any lines or unwanted weight.
  • movement.
  • tapered ends.

GOOD FOR:

  • super thick blunt hair that feels too heavy.
  • anyone who feels like they have a “wall” of hair.

ASK FOR:

  • graduated layers. the sole purpose of graduation is to build weight. with fine curls, you usually want to layer while adding volume and this is my favorite way.
  • bangs to be incorporated into the hairstyle if you want additional wave to come out. The shorter you cut wavy hair, obviously the lighter it gets, so you’re going to see more volume from adding bangs. Just be sure that’s what you want! Talk to your pro.
  • something that you can put a little product in, diffuse and go.

GOOD FOR:

  • fine, wavy hair that gets flat when it gets long.

ASK FOR:

  • your waves to be “sliced into”. Slicing is exactly what it sounds like– your hairdresser will run his/her scissors down a small section of hair which will taper the wave and make it a little thinner toward the ends. this takes away width and often makes the hair appear even longer.
  • something that elongates.
  • something to take away the “triangle” caused by thick, wavy hair that’s been cut too blunt.

GOOD FOR:

  • thick, natrually wavy hair.
  • boho vibes/surfer girl vibes.
  • those who love to wash + wear. The air-dryers!

ASK FOR:

  • layers to remove heavy weight first, and texture added second by slicing though heavier waves to lighten them up.
  • something that gives volume and enhances texture.
  • tapered ends.
  • movement.

GOOD FOR:

  • thick wavy hair
  • strong wave patterns
  • bulky ends
  • “puffy” waves
  • anyone who likes to refine unruly waves using a curling wand or iron

ASK FOR:

  • your hair to be cut dry first. (Wear your hair clean-ish, in it’s natural texture to the salon so your hairstylist can see it the way you wear it. We don’t have time to sit there while your hair air dries after being shampooed so it’s up to you to come in with it so we can see it the way you love to wear it. We want to see where the weight is, how much shrinkage you have before/after it’s shampooed, and how relaxed it gets after a day or two.)
  • graduation. You want each layer to stack up on the next so you can get more bounce! Graduation will build weight and volume in the places you want it but will remove weight from the bottom so it’s not a giant pyramid shape.
  • versatility. If you straighten it sometimes, tell your hairdresser so he/she can blow you out and make sure the cut looks good with straight hair, too. I always encourage natural texture but some people feel most comfortable with it blown and smooth and that’s okay. Just inform your hairstylist so they don’t cut it to be curly and then you end up with longer bits and pieces when it’s straightened.
  • ask for your hair not to be pulled too much when cut. I like to cut my general shape by lifting but barely pulling at all. Then I go back in and slice though any curls that appear too thick/bulky while gently pulling. Some people understand cutting curly hair and some people don’t. Do your best to find someone who either has curly hair themselves or specializes in curls. It’s a different art than cutting straight or wavy hair and it takes longer to grow back so do your research. It will be worth it!

GOOD FOR:

  • naturally curly hair.
  • curly hair that gets wide, heavy and weighed down.

ASK FOR:

  • someone who specializes in curly hair, first and foremost. When your hair is this tightly coiled, you don’t have room to mess around. Ask them if they specialize in super curly hair and if they know all about various curl types. If the answer is no, then BYE.
  • your natural texture to be enhanced and refined.
  • definition on the ends by subtle thinning or slicing to give shape to the circumference.
  • any dried, broken ends to be removed while hair is dry.
  • whatever circumference you want. be clear about how far you want it to come out from your head when it’s dry. (I like to cut dry with a little spritz of water on the section I’m working on just to prevent breakage as I’m working through. If you cut it after shampooing, you really don’t know how much it will stretch until it’s redried and restyled. Better to cut it dry with a little water spritzing, then shampoo when you’re done)

GOOD FOR:

  • tight, coiled, kinky curls.

Hope this helps you guys when talking to your stylist! I just have to disclose that none of these photos are ours. Rarely do we do posts using photos from others, but I wanted to get images that speak a universal language.

If you’re a hairstylist or even someone who’s had a great experiene with a certain cut, by all means, please share it below in the comments. We love exchanging information and you may really help someone by spilling your story!

 

DIRECTIONAL PULL

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

We don’t always give the proper attention and detail to our lower lashes. Maybe we think they’re an afterthought so we quickly sweep what’s left on the wand through them and move on to another area. I’d like to make a case for why we should give them 45 seconds of our time! There’s something very flirty about lower lashes, and for a lot of us either their tips are blonde or the whole lash is light and you barely even see them. All of our lashes need to be seen in order to bat them! Here’s how:

TOOLS:

  • Mascara Primer – My new lash obsession in Blinc Black Lash Primer because it really coats each lash thickly to prepare them for mascara. You can apply as many coats of it as you need to within 60 seconds. Obviously use it on your upper lashes too!
  • Mini-Wand Mascara – Mini wands work so much better on our bottom lashes and Dior Diorshow New Look Mascara is by far my favorite because of both the plastic bristles and the volumizing formula.

STEPS:


  1. Start with the primer, hold the wand horizontally as you wiggle it through the lashes.
  2. Continuing with the primer, hold the wand vertically and paint each lash or lash grouping from the root to the tip.
  3. Switch the mini-wand. Starting with the outer lashes, direct them outward by pulling them towards your temple with the wand.
  4. Move to your middle lashes and use the wand to pull them downward (basically how they already grow).
  5. Finish by pulling your inner lashes towards your nose.

You can use a waterproof formula if you’ve had bad luck with mascara running on your bottom lashes. Just don’t give up on them! Every now and then when I do a cat eye on a client and want everything lifted upward, I leave the bottom lashline bare with no liner and no mascara. But that’s the only occasion I ever skip detailing and bringing the lower lashes to life!

AT HOME FACIAL SERIES

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

We’re kicking off our At-Home Facial Series with my favorite secret for amping up a detoxifying mud mask and leaving your skin polished and glowing! I’ve been doing it for years and there’s nothing like it! So when you don’t have time or the room in your budget to visit your facialist, take your mud mask to another level by adding a product you probably already have in your bathroom cabinet. Here’s how:

TOOLS:

STEPS:

  1. Squeeze a generous amount of the mud mask onto your fingertips and rub them together.
  2. Apply all over face as demonstrated on Alyssa above. Wait 15 minutes or until it dries completely.
  3. Now don’t rinse yet! Squeeze a generous amount of the scrub onto your fingertips and rub together.
  4. Apply the scrub directly on top of the dried mask and start rubbing it in circles as you move across your facial area. This does two things: it breaks down the mask but more importantly, it helps remove dead skin cells while your pores are already cleaned.
  5. Now rinse by splashing with cool water. You can use a wet wash cloth or muslin cloth as well.

Your skin will feel incredibly soft and smooth like you just had microdermabrasion! If you have sensitive skin, test this process on a small area to make sure it’s not too irritating.

 

LANGUAGE OF LAYERS (part 1)

Two things that have been consistently problematic for most people I meet (or hear from via email) is that they are confused about layers and equally confused about how to ask for what they want from their hairstylist. I wanted to start a new series to help us get through that together! My hope is that with a little extra information, nobody will have to suffer through a haircut they didn’t want ever again!

For this first post, we’re going to deal with straight and slightly wavy hair. And for the next post we’ll do stronger waves to curly. There’s so much information and I don’t want to confuse anyone further, so if you’re rocking strong waves or curls be patient and wait til my next post. I promise it will be worth it!

Below I’ve created some visuals for some of my favorite types of haircuts. I didn’t do the haircuts below, only the one up at the top, but these are great examples for what you need to know. Take these with you when you go to the hairstylist if you need to! I promise, we appreciate a good visual becuase it helps us to identify what you see.

ASK FOR:

  • a blunt cut that clears the shoulders.
  • no layers
  • ask your hairstylist to help you decide on the most flattering length for your face, somewhere between your chin and your shoulders.
  • if your hair is superfine but you have a ton of hair, you may want to ask your hairstylist to do a subtle undercut in the back so it doesn’t appear too bulky and unflattering behind your head.

GOOD FOR:

  • making fine hair appear thicker.
  • anyone who likes to wear their hair straight.

ASK FOR:

  • the haircut you want, and then some subtle layers added to it. Short layers don’t mean that your top layer is short in length. Short (when describing layers) simply defines the distance between one layer and the next. Think of it like this– it’s just a “short distance” to the next layer.
  • ask your hairstylist to help you decide where the layers should go. Around your face? All the way around? Should there be some in the back? Each person will need weight taken out in a different spot or maybe all over.
  • I like to point cut when I do subtle/short layers but each stylist will do it differently. If you like a more subtle looking layer, just ask for exactly that! Make it clear that you don’t want choppy and you don’t want tons of piece-y-ness. (Is that actually a word??)

GOOD FOR:

  • removing that “bell” shape or “triangle” shape that can be left behind by a blunt cut.
  • those who like to part their hair in different places on different days. Flipping or parting your hair on one side and then switching to the other can cause one side to look very heavy. Subtle soft layers will remove some of that.
  • anyone who gets bored with a blunt cut.
  • someone wanting a short cut but also wanting to add volume.

ASK FOR:

  • a blunt cut on the bottom with some piece-y layers for movement and texture.
  • something low maintenance that can be blow dried or air dried, curled with an iron or look good straight.

GOOD FOR:

  • bloggers. HA! I’m kidding. But isn’t this such a blogger haircut.
  • those who love the EVERY DAY WAVE.
  • anyone growing out their fine to normal hair.

ASK FOR:

  • a classic women’s layer cut.
  • nothing too “textured”.
  • subtle layers in back, medium face framing layers in front.

GOOD FOR:

  • normal to thick hair.
  • anyone who lives for their 1 1/4″ curling iron and/or a perfect ponytail.
  • all Lauren Conrad, Rosie HW and Kate Middleton lovers! These ladies all carry a very classic and timeless look that can also be amped up to the next level with some messy waves and good product from time to time.

ASK FOR:

  • texture, texture, texture!
  • weight to be removed or thinned out.
  • soft, subtle undercutting to enhance texture on the ends and keep dense ends from appearing too thick.

GOOD FOR:

  • volume seekers.
  • those with tons of hair.
  • anyone who loves a more lived-in look or “undone” hair style.
  • someone who has natural wave and loves to air dry.

ASK FOR:

  • long layers. Again, just as I mentioned above in the short layers section, it’s not about the length of the layer you ask for! It’s about the distance between the longest layer and the shortest layer. As you see in this photo, Lily has some really long pieces and some much shorter pieces. The distance between the bottom layer and the top layer is significant. This would be considered long layers.
  • tell your stylist you love a boho vibe. Most hairdressers know exactly what that means by now– long layers with natural-looking messy waves. When my clients like things like this I typically reference “Free People hair” and “Olson hair”. Both of those scream natural texture and we always end up on the same page.

GOOD FOR:

  • natural wavy hair.
  • long hair that is fine (but lots of it), normal, thick or wavy hair.
  • those who love using a wand to curl.
  • anyone who loves to air dry.

ASK FOR:

  • major texture! Maybe even to be cut with a razor if your hairdresser thinks you need it. Razors generally give lots of texture but can also be bad for certain hair types– let your pro decide. I typically only use razors on fine hair when it needs a little bulking up.
  • something that will bring out some waves in your hair.
  • to remove any unwanted weight or bulk by adding lots and lots of layers.

GOOD FOR:

  • anyone who wants to rough dry and rush out the door.
  • those who love to wear their hair down.
  • face framing and those with bangs.

Stay tuned for the next “Language or Layers” hair post this week where we’ll tap into which layered haircuts are best for WAVES & CURLS!

(and yes, I’ll be doing a tutorial on how to get the waves in the top photo soon as well!)