Posts Tagged ‘not your mothers’

AIR DRYING FOR BETTER CURLS

PHOTOS/POST: KRISTIN ESS

PHOTOS/POST: KRISTIN ESS

We’ve been very into 90’s vibes as of late with all these short blunt cutshair flips. Another look that pairs well with a major flip is big volumious curl. We love air dried hair and think it’s gorgeous just the way it is, but did you know that air drying can be nearly as beneficial as a styling product? Let me explain! When you blow your hair out before you curl, you pull your natural wave pattern out with heat. That means you’ve relayed the message to your hair, the cuticle and root that you want it straight. Even if you go in with hairspray and a curling iron or wand, the likelihood is that your curl is going to want to return to the state in which you blowdried it.

air drying for curls via thebeautydepartment

If you have wavy or curly hair and you allow your hair to air dry before you curl (no matter how big, frizzy, kinky, janky or funky you may think it looks) you allow the pattern to come through and that pattern provides so much curl support. More than most products, in my opinion.

WASHING: In the top photo, we prepped the hair by shampooing with a curl enhancing shampoo + conditioner. (I’ll add budget friendly options below!) You’ll want to comb your hair out in the shower when you’re rinsing your conditioner through and then avoid brushing it out once you’re out of the shower, other than parting it if you need to. Doing so will help your wave pattern look more defined. Towel dry only.

DRYING: All that was added before going to sleep was a small amount of curl enhancing serum. Literally woke up like this.

THE WAND: The reason the wand is good for this is because unlike the classic curling iron, the hair doesn’t get pressed from both sides, in other words, it’s not smashed between two hot plates. Translation: wand curls will almost always be fuller, bouncier and more voluminous than curling iron curls. THIS WAND that we used can be found here and it’s our lucky day because it’s on sale. HOORAY! The hair was wrapped back and away from the face all over the head. We applied absolutely zero product to the hair as we curled and zero product after.

If you’re looking for an alternative curl enhancing system that’s budget friendly, definitely try THIS + THIS + THIS which can be found at many drugstores! We’ve tried this before, and although we aren’t major fans of the scent, the product works very well.

air drying for curling hair via thebeautydepartment

I’m very excited for those of you with wave and curl to try this out. Learn to use what you’ve got naturally to your benefit. Sure, adding curling iron or wand curls defeats the purpose of air drying, but we’re not saying air dried hair is bad. We’re saying if you want stronger, longer lasting curls, use your own for extra support! If you have any curl support tips, please share them with other readers in the comments below. Xx

KEEP RED HAIR FROM FADING

Post: Kristin Ess, top photo by Kristin Ess, bottom photos Kristin Ess, Angela Kohler + Tyler Jennings

MERMAID ALERT. Hands down the most frequent question I get asked when I meet people for the first time is how I keep my red hair so bright. Everyone looks at you when you’re a hair colorist as if you’re holding out on some mega-secret that’s finally going to crack the case on color fading. The truth is, there’s a whole list of secrets! There not just one magic potion to pour on your head. If there was, I would own it by now and I would share it with you right here. I’ve written about red hair color on TBD before as a blogger, but now I want to write from the perspective of a fellow redhead. I could just list off a bunch of color safe shampoos but there are plenty of color shampoo roundups online, right? Instead I’m going to give you a rundown of the things I do and things I don’t do to keep my hair the brightest! These are all tips that I know work because over the last decade I’ve been every single shade of roja and I’ve taken lots of notes. Here are my top 10 ways that I keep my un-natural (but totally natural) red hair on point…

  1. I have a custom conditioner made. You have to find a Davines salon and get a pro to make you one, but it’s worth it. HERE is a salon locator. So many conditioners out there for redheads are off on their tone. They’re either too pink or too yellow or too translucent. Trust me on this. Find a salon and let them mix your exact shade.
  2. Cool water washing isn’t a myth. In the winter time, I will even knock up the heater temp in the bathroom just so I can handle the cooler water setting. It doesn’t need to be cold, it just shouldn’t be hot. Changing my water temperature did slow the fading and made my hair more reflective in the long run.
  3. Swimming in a chlorinated pool? NO. Hair exposed for long periods of time in the sun? NEVER. Just don’t do it. Not unless you plan on getting your color done within the next couple days. No… just no. I only swim in salt water or fresh water. If I get in a chlorinated pool, I just won’t put my hair in, end of story.
  4. Spray leave-In conditioner is a must. I always use THIS ONE because I’ve tried about a hundred and there’s not another one like it. It seals, protects and shines like the top of the Chrysler Building. If I leave on a trip without it, it’s the first thing I have to locate when I land.
  5. Permanent color, then gloss. So for my own formula, I have someone apply my root color first which is a cream-based permanent color, then I put another cream-based permanent color through the ends. And THEN I go the extra mile and gloss over that while at the shampoo bowl (after my color has been rinsed). It takes about 20-25 minutes and it’s a similar process to a deep conditioning treatment. My hair used to fade like crazy when I didn’t put a gloss over the permanent color. I attribute most of my current vibrance to glossing over the regular cream-based color. You’re definitely going to get charged for that at the salon, but it’s not insanely expensive and it isn’t sold to people without a license. I prefer glossing my hair with Shades EQ which is from Redken. Ask your colorist or find a Redken salon HERE.
  6. Glosses in between colors. Again, it takes the same time as a deep conditioner so prioritize! I do my roots every 2 1/2-3 months, so I find a time right smack in the middle of my color appointments to get glossed. Again, I gloss with the same Shades EQ formula as before.
  7. I definitely keep blowdrying to a minimum. I’m not saying I skip blowdrying because my hair has strong wave/frizz and needs to be blown out, I just wash less (see next tip!). I’ve never done my own scientific study on this, but I know from experience that running hot air into my red locks on the daily is a no.
  8. Invest in a great dry shampoo. My favorites are THIS ($), THIS ($$) but mostly THIS ($$$). Once I became a dry shampoo addict, I started seeing my color fade much less. Obviously the less you’re washing, the less you’re fading.
  9. Every redhaired mermaid needs an ionic dryer. I use the Elchim 2001. I’ve used it forever and it’s my favorite all around. I won’t preach about the benefits of ionic dryers becuase I already did that recently RIGHT HERE.

In case we’ve never met or you’re just starting to follow TBD, I’m a redhead too, thanks to the powers of pigment. I’m also a hairstylist/colorist. As a professional, we have access to so many great things and I just wanted to share my personal favorites. If you have any tips or products that you’re obsessed with, I would LOVE for you to list them down below in the comments. We always love to hear what you’ve been using and how it’s working for you.

My last words of advice are… Always make sure you give red hair color a chance to stick. It took me about 4 rounds before my red stopped fading so much, mostly because I was blonde before. Don’t expect to go from lighter hair colors to red with no fading the first time, or even the second. Be realistic about it. Also, if you’re going red go through types of red (USE THIS POST IF YOU WANT!) with your colorist. It’s best to be on the same page about which red is which. Don’t be embarassed to take pictures with you! We love it.