Posts Tagged ‘makeup’

THE NATURAL CONTOUR & HIGHLIGHT

the beauty department the natural contour + highlight

Post/Photos: Amy Nadine, Graphic Design: Eunice Chun

We’ve seen quite a lot of contouring and highlighting the last few years… some are nailing it, some are afraid to even attempt it and others are walking around looking, well, a little like fashion victims. I hate to say it! Especially because I think makeup is a creative expression and I hate when people call someone else’s makeup “wrong”. But there’s always room for improvement and constructive criticism (blend blend blend!) and this contouring and highlighting technique just might make all the difference in the world! Because when it comes to C&H, it’s better if people didn’t know you did it and it shouldn’t be read by the naked eye.

the beauty department natural contour + highlighting trick

So try this: instead of doing it after you apply foundation (with cream or powder contouring & highlighting products), do it before with liquid or cream products!! Then apply foundation lightly over it and around it using a stippling motion with a dampened egg sponge.  It gives a much more natural look and people won’t notice that you added the dimensions back in. Here’s how:

the beauty department natural contour + highlighting tools

TOOLS:

STEPS:

the beauty department contour

  1. After moisturizing your face, apply two drops of liquid bronzer onto the palm of your hand.
  2. Swirl the foundation brush into the bronzer to load it up.
  3. Look in the mirror and suck in your cheeks. Follow the hollow by pressing the brush repeatedly as you move along just under the cheekbone.
  4. Sweep the brush along the temple.
  5. Sweep the brush along the hairline.
  6. Sweep the brush just under the jawline.

the beauty department highlight

7.  Squeeze a pea-sized amount of the liquid highlighter into the palm of your hand.

8.  Load up the kabuki concealer brush by swirling it into the highlighter.

9.  Sweep the brush along the under-eye area to draw the bottom half of an infinity sign.

10.  Continue drawing the infinity sign above the brow as demonstrated above.

the beauty department foundation

11.  Pump a few drops of foundation into the palm of your hand.

12.  Dip the egg-shaped sponge into the foundation a few times to load it up.

13.  Lightly stipple (press repeatedly) the sponge along the perimeter of the highlighted and contoured cheek areas and gently over them.

14. Repeat on the forehead.

15.  Repeat on the nose, chin and any other bare areas.

16.  Finish with a pop of cream blush on the top half of the apple of the cheeks.

Set everything with powder and you’re good to go!

UNDER EYE UNDO

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

Here’s the deal. If you only have dark circles, you can apply a concealer that is a half shade lighter than your foundation to the under-eye area and be good to go. But… if you have dark circles and puffy “bags,” you’re actually making things look worse!

Remember back in Art class: One of the first things we studied was dimensions and we learned that if you shade something with a darker color, it will “push” it to the background, like it’s further away. On the contrary, if you paint with a lighter shade, it “pulls” that area to the foreground, making it appear closer. We can apply that theory here!

 

TBDPuffyEyeCoverUpDIAGRAM1

Here’s the trick: Under-eye shadows need a lighter shade to bring them forward. Puffy bags are already in the foreground and need to be pushed back, which is why you want a slightly darker shade. A lighter shade will bring them even more forward, making them look puffier! That’s the last thing you need!

TBDPuffyEyeCoverUpTOOLS

TOOLS:

TBDPuffyEyeCoverUpSTEPS

STEPS:

  1. After applying foundation all over the face and neck, look in the mirror and focus your eye to only see the dark area. This is not the puffy area! This is the area that is darker and most likely closest to your nose or under the puffy “bag”. Trace the correcting pen over the dark area to lighten it up.
  2. Now notice only the part that is puffy and raised. Apply the liquid concealer in the slightly darker shade directly on top of it.
  3. Blend with your finger by tapping it instead of smearing it.
  4. Continue tapping as you move across.

TBDPuffyEyeCoverUpFINAL

 

HOLIDAY SPARKLE

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

I know that most of you will step it up at holiday parties this year by rocking a red lip! But today I’m tempting you to take it a step further and pair it with a simple sparkle eye. Nothing Vegas Showgirl or anything distracting. Just one glitter liquid liner and four ways to rock it. Here’s how:

TOOLS:

TBDGlitter1InnerTwinkle

INNER TWINKLE

  1. Look up and start in the inner corner. Trace the liquid liner about 1/3 of the distance across the lower lash line. You can decide how thick or thin you want it. I always end up making it a tad too thick but always notice right away and in time to swipe away the unwanted width with a q-tip (or my finger) before it dries.
  2. Follow with a couple coats of mascara.

TBDGlitter2GoldLine

THE GOLD LINE

  1. One of my very special clients did this on her own for her baby shower this year and everyone loved it! Simply start at the inner corner of your upper lashline and trace the liner across to the outer corner.
  2. Go back over it to add another coat of glitter. If that’s enough for you, stop there, or you can do a third coat on top to add even more glitter, which is what I did on Neelo here.
  3. Finish with a couple coats of mascara.

TBDGlitter3LidSparkle

LID SPARKLE

  1. Here you are just adding lines above the gold line that you drew in The Gold Line until you’ve filled in the entire lid. Stop before the crease so it doesn’t crease.
  2. Go back over the lid a couple more times until you’ve reached the amount of desired glitter.
  3. Finish with a couple coats of mascara.

TBDGlitter4Ombre2

OMBRE

  1. This time, do the steps from The Gold Line, but instead of filling in the entire lid like we did in Lid Sparkle, this time only draw the Gold Line.
  2. Before it dries, aka immediately, place your finger over the line and gently smear the glitter upward.
  3. Pick your finger up and press it repeatedly all over your lid.
  4. With the remaining few specks of glitter left on your finger, press it along the crease.
  5. Go back and draw a line at the upper lash line again to make sure that’s the most intense area.

 

DRAW, SMUDGE & SMEAR!

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

When shadow sticks came along a few years ago, the makeup industry was changed forever! They put the intensity of a cream shadow into a rounded stick that glides with ease. Then they formulated them to be smudgeable for a minute then set and last for hours without fading. Like all makeup, you can apply them however you prefer. I’ve found that if you want to make sure it doesn’t crease in the crease, this is the way to apply it. And the trick is not to apply it into the crease. Instead, only apply it on the lid, then smear and smudge it with your finger into the crease creating a slow fade. Here’s how:

TBDShadowSticks101TOOLS

OUR FAVORITES:

TBDShadowSticks101DIAGRAM

STEPS:

  1. Directly from the tube, draw across the entire lid as demonstrated on Lacy below. Leave the crease bare.
  2. Place your finger on top of what you just drew and start to smudge it upward into the crease.
  3. Now that you’ve smudged it into the crease, start to “drag” or pull it towards the outside corner of the crease. See the diagram below.
  4. Apply a couple coats of mascara and you’re good to go!

TBDShadowSticks101STEPS

If you prefer brushes over your fingers, you can absolutely use one to blend the shadow up in step 2 and over step 3, but with your finger, you have the advantage of your body temperature to help move the product around better. You can also apply it to the bottom lashline if you wish. Just trace along it with the stick then smear it gently with your finger or a Q-tip.

TBDShadowSticks101FINAL