Posts Tagged ‘liner’

DRAW, SMUDGE & SMEAR!

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

When shadow sticks came along a few years ago, the makeup industry was changed forever! They put the intensity of a cream shadow into a rounded stick that glides with ease. Then they formulated them to be smudgeable for a minute then set and last for hours without fading. Like all makeup, you can apply them however you prefer. I’ve found that if you want to make sure it doesn’t crease in the crease, this is the way to apply it. And the trick is not to apply it into the crease. Instead, only apply it on the lid, then smear and smudge it with your finger into the crease creating a slow fade. Here’s how:

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OUR FAVORITES:

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STEPS:

  1. Directly from the tube, draw across the entire lid as demonstrated on Lacy below. Leave the crease bare.
  2. Place your finger on top of what you just drew and start to smudge it upward into the crease.
  3. Now that you’ve smudged it into the crease, start to “drag” or pull it towards the outside corner of the crease. See the diagram below.
  4. Apply a couple coats of mascara and you’re good to go!

TBDShadowSticks101STEPS

If you prefer brushes over your fingers, you can absolutely use one to blend the shadow up in step 2 and over step 3, but with your finger, you have the advantage of your body temperature to help move the product around better. You can also apply it to the bottom lashline if you wish. Just trace along it with the stick then smear it gently with your finger or a Q-tip.

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MAKE IT LAST

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

The number one question and concern I get asked is “how do I get my foundation to stay on all day… I put it on at 7am before work then look in the mirror around 3 and it’s all gone!” I used to have the same problem too and would have to reapply it later. But who has time for that? So after years of trying anything and everything that I could get my hands, this is what I’ve found that works. Not only on me, it works on my clients as well. Hallelujah!!

It comes down to these three tips and techniques:

  1. first apply foundation with a buffing brush to really work it in (you can choose a longwear foundation but I’ve found those just sit on the surface of my skin and come off on my phone),
  2. then stipple the powder on instead of sweeping it across and
  3. finish with a setting spray.

Please try it this week and check in the mirror around 3pm and see if it worked! Here’s how:

TBDMakeupLockdownTools

TOOLS:

TBDMakeupLockdownSTEPS

STEPS:

  1. Apply foundation over your face and neck using the kabuki buffing brush. Instead of sweeping the brush across, buff and press it into the skin so it becomes one with everything. Repeat in areas where you might need more coverage.
  2. Apply the rest of you makeup as usual. You can leave mascara off until after step 4 if you’re like me and want to triple ensure that it won’t run.
  3. Load up the powder brush with powder, give it a quick tap against the counter or lid to remove a little of the excess. Again, instead of sweeping it across your face, press and stipple it over and over until you’ve covered everything. This really pushes the powder into the makeup.
  4. Finish by spritzing the setting spray over your entire face. Hold the bottle at least 6 inches away from your face and be sure to close your eyes and your mouth.

TBDMakeupLockdownCompleteLook

COMPLETE THE LOOK:

Lacy is wearing my new favorite eye palette for Fall, Lime Crime’s Venus The Grunge Palette, Eyeko Eye Do Mascara, Urban Decay Heavy Metal Liner in Midnight Cowboy, Benefit Majorette Blush and Too Faced Melted Longwear Liquified Lipstick in Melted Berry.

 

CAT EYE LITE

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

Sometimes a little smoked wing is all you need! Who says a cat eye has to be done with liquid liner? This soft version is ultra-feminine and flirty and a very modern take on a retro look. And for those of you who are still intimidated by liquid liner, this is a perfect way to master the shape of the flick. Let’s break it down step by step:

TOOLS:

  • A Nude Shadow — pick one that matches your own skin color.
  • A Black Matte Shadow — not that a shimmer version wouldn’t be pretty too! But I used this one from my favorite matte shadow palette on Magali above.
  • A Long-Edged Angled Liner Brush — if you don’t have this long-edged angled liner brush in your arsenal yet, you’re missing out! It takes the guess work out of lining and allows you to stamp and sweep.
  • Mascara — I used this big volume mascara and really loved the way it coated each lash.
  • A Cotton Swab — it can be a regular one or a pointed tip.
  • Optional: Half-Strip False Lashes – I used and love these lash accents.

STEPS:

1. Apply the nude shadow all over your lid and crease.

2. Press the liner brush into the shadow and give it a tap against the counter to release any excess.

3. Determine the angle of the wing by imagining an line from the end of your eye to the end of your brow. Stamp the brush along that angle.

4. Move the brush towards the lashline and stamp again. Lift the brush up and stamp horizontally above it to connect it to your lashline.

5. Now stamp along the lashline and stop about 3/4’s of the way across.

6. Take the cotton swab and gently smear the line back and forth to smoke it out.

7. Press the brush back into the shadow and give it another tap against the counter to remove any excess. Go back and stamp the wing to perfect the edges a little. You don’t have to do this step, I just couldn’t help myself!

8. Add a couple coats of mascara.

9. This step is optional but you can always add a half strip of lashes for extra drama. Revisit my Quick Tips For Lash Strips Tutorial for secrets to getting it right every time.

 

 

A QUICK LIP TIP

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

When it comes to bringing the Uptown Lip to life, you’ll want to focus on two key elements: a little lining exaggeration and a shiny gloss. If you follow your own lip’s perimeter, you’ll get a nice, natural result. But if you take the line from your cupid’s bow to the outer corner as a solid straight line instead, it will be slightly above the natural perimeter, creating a fuller effect. Combined with gloss that makes everything more three dimensional and even Kylie Jenner would be impressed! Here’s how:

TOOLS:

  • Your Favorite Lip Pencil — Right now these are my favorite lip pencils for the perfect amount of pigment and slip. These are my favorite more budget-conscious options. I’ve chosen a nude shade but you can do this technique with any color that you love as long as the lip liner and the lip gloss are the same shade.
  • Your Favorite Lip Gloss — These 3-D lip glosses are so advanced both visually and formulation-wise. They definitely weren’t around when I went to makeup school in 2003 and I’m so impressed with how far the cosmetics industry has come. If you’re looking to pay a little less, try these gorgeous ultra-shiny lip glosses.

STEPS:

  1. Start by drawing an “M” shape along your cupid’s bow but don’t go all the way to the corners.
  2. This is where we cheat the angles. Don’t follow your natural lip perimeter, especially if it slopes a little downward as it makes its way to the corner. Ignore the natural line and draw a straight line from the end of the “M” to the corner.
  3. Stretch your smile to tighten the skin so your lines are smooth and not jagged. Feel free to make the line thicker as you do this. You can even fill in the entire upper lip as well like I did on Rachel above.
  4. Don’t forget to line the lower lip as you usually would. Or you can cheat it slightly below the natural lip line but be careful not to draw it too exaggerated. Then you can fill in the entire lower lip as well.
  5. Finish with a coat of lip gloss on both the top and bottom.