Posts Tagged ‘lid’

EYE SHADOW ENLIGHTENMENT

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

I learned this little trick from my idol Mary Greenwell when we were on a press tour in Rome, Madrid and London (she was doing Cate Blanchett’s makeup and I was doing Geoffrey Rush’s grooming for Elizabeth The Golden Age). I love that it’s incredibly subtle but brings the lid to life with a tiny twinkle when you blink or look down. No glitter. Nothing to hit you over the head. Just a hint of frost to catch and reflect the light. Here’s how:

TBDSecretLidPop2

TOOLS:

  1. Your Favorite Eye Shadow — I used this lavender shadow quad ($$$) on Eva because the shades of purple are universally gorgeous on every skin tone but this lilac one ($) is less of an splurge!
  2. A Lighter Shadow For The Pop — pick a slightly frosted shade so it catches the light like this one in Ice ($$) or this one ($).
  3. A Slightly Darker Shadow To Wet and Use As A Liner — I used the darker purple shadow from the palette.
  4. Your Favorite Lash Curler — I know everyone loves the Shu Uemura Curler and I love it too because it’s ultra-wide, but this one has the strongest pinch I’ve ever found!
  5. Your Favorite Mascara — I used this favorite one on Eva to really separate and coat each lash.

TBDSecretLidPopSTEPS

STEPS:

  1. Sweep the lavender/lilac shade all over the lid and crease.
  2. Trace it along the bottom lashes as well.
  3. Press your finger into the frosted lighter shade and stamp it on the center of your lid. You might have to do it twice to really make it pop!
  4. Wet a liner brush and dip it in the darker shadow. Trace it along the upper lashline. You can also wing it out like I did.
  5. Pinch the lashes with the curler.
  6. Finish with a couple coats of mascara.

Heaven! And speaking of, I was lucky enough to convince the heavenly Eva Amurri Martino to model for us! You probably recognize her from Undateable, Californication and Saved, or because she looks a lot like her mom Susan Sarandon! She just launched her new lifestyle blog Happily Eva After and it will quickly become one of your favorite reads. So good!

BRUSH BASICS

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

A lot of us never think about how we use our eye shadow brushes. And maybe you’re already using it this way subconsciously! But just in case, here’s a guideline to remember. There are five sides to a brush: the tip, two long sides and two flat sides. This is how I love to use them:

  • Use the LONG SIDE to shade the contour (crease).
  • Use the TIP to go back and blend it back and forth.
  • Use the FLAT SIDE to fill in the lid.

TOOLS:

TBDEyeContourBrushSTEPS

STEPS:

  1. Load up the LONG SIDE of the brush with the contour (darker) shade.
  2. Trace the contour of the eye (the crease) with the LONG SIDE of the brush.
  3. Now go back over the crease with the TIP of the brush and blend back and forth.
  4. Fill up the FLAT SIDE of the brush with the lid (lighter) shade and fill in the lid space.
  5. You can add liner (I didn’t) then coat the lashes with mascara.

TBDEyeContourBrushFINAL

 

DRAW, SMUDGE & SMEAR!

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

When shadow sticks came along a few years ago, the makeup industry was changed forever! They put the intensity of a cream shadow into a rounded stick that glides with ease. Then they formulated them to be smudgeable for a minute then set and last for hours without fading. Like all makeup, you can apply them however you prefer. I’ve found that if you want to make sure it doesn’t crease in the crease, this is the way to apply it. And the trick is not to apply it into the crease. Instead, only apply it on the lid, then smear and smudge it with your finger into the crease creating a slow fade. Here’s how:

TBDShadowSticks101TOOLS

OUR FAVORITES:

TBDShadowSticks101DIAGRAM

STEPS:

  1. Directly from the tube, draw across the entire lid as demonstrated on Lacy below. Leave the crease bare.
  2. Place your finger on top of what you just drew and start to smudge it upward into the crease.
  3. Now that you’ve smudged it into the crease, start to “drag” or pull it towards the outside corner of the crease. See the diagram below.
  4. Apply a couple coats of mascara and you’re good to go!

TBDShadowSticks101STEPS

If you prefer brushes over your fingers, you can absolutely use one to blend the shadow up in step 2 and over step 3, but with your finger, you have the advantage of your body temperature to help move the product around better. You can also apply it to the bottom lashline if you wish. Just trace along it with the stick then smear it gently with your finger or a Q-tip.

TBDShadowSticks101FINAL

 

ELONGATE THE LID

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

There are many benefits to elongating the lid. The most obvious is that it makes your lid space look longer. But it also elongates your eye, which is particularly great if your eyes are more on the rounded side and you want them to appear more like Bria’s almond-shaped eyes above. I love rounded eyes and don’t think they should be anything but embraced, but we get so many emails asking how to make them appear less round, so this is an option. Last, it makes the whole eye area appear bigger. And, let’s be honest, it’s a little edgy and fun! Here’s how to pull it off:

TOOLS:

STEPS:

  1. Sweep the shadow all over the lid and crease then start pulling it outward along the crease as demonstrated above. Switch to a clean brush and blend back and forth like windshield wipers.
  2. Trace the shadow along the bottom lashline, continuing past the outer corner until you meet the top shadow.

You can use any color in the rainbow but I love it in a dramatic charcoal like above or in a soft shimmer pearl or a matte smoky taupe! You can line on top of it but it will detract from in a little. Don’t forget mascara!