Posts Tagged ‘lashline’

EYELINER STUDY

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

Did you know that there are tiny, subtle things you can do with your lower lashline eyeliner to make your eyes look more “open” and awake or more elongated and almond-shaped? It’s true! Regardless of what you do with lining your upper lashline, take a second to think about how you line your lower lashline (if at all) and your decision will tweak the way your eye looks. If you only line the center part of it, it will make your eye look more open and reinforce a rounder shape. If you only line the outer corner of the lower lashline, it will make your eye look longer and more almond shape. If you go a step further and rim the inner waterline, it will make the eye look slightly more closed but much more piercing. Let’s walk through each one:

TOOLS:

TBDLowerLashlineCENTER

ROUND/OPEN:

  1. Trace the pencil ONLY along the center of the lower lashline. This creates the illusion that the eye is more “open” and rounder.
  2. Smudge it a little with your finger or the cotton swab. This step is optional but I always prefer a smudged liner unless it’s a liquid cat eye, obviously.

TBDLowerLashlineCORNER

ELONGATED:

  1. Trace the pencil ONLY along the outer half of the eye. You could even do just the outer quarter or third if you wish.
  2. Smudge it a little with your finger or the cotton swab. Again this step is optional.

TBDLowerLashlineWATERLINE

INNER WATERLINE:

  1. If you want to add more drama and make the Corner Flush more piercing, rim the inner waterline the same distance (outer half, outer third or outer quarter).

I simplified everything by not lining the upper lashline, but you could also line the whole upper lashline, just the corner, or make it thicker as you progress from the inner to outer corner… there are tons of ways to change your eye shape! Which style is your favorite? For even more examples of lower lashlining, revisit my Lower Lashline Study from a couple years ago!

For those of you asking about the eyeshadow above, I used this gorgeous sage green palette ($$$)! You can also try this budget-friendly shadow in Green Glimmer ($).

BRITTANY SNOW PREMIERE LOOK

TUTORIAL BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

TUTORIAL BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

Oh hey big eyes! Our favorite pitch perfect mega babe Brittany Snow ventured out Tuesday night to support her new indie flick Dial A Prayer (opens tonight!), dazzling in a fitted LBD with lace peek-a-boo cutouts and a effortless top twist! It occurred to me that this winged-shadow sultry eye might be something you’d love to rock on your next night out , so here’s how I created her look. You might not have noticed, but the eye makeup was strategically placed in ways to make the eyes look bigger but piercing at the same time. And you can do that too! The key points are to wing the shadow out and up creating a bigger lid space than the actual lid space, then skip liner on the lashline and tightline & inner rim it instead. Here’s how:

TBDBrittanySnow Breakdown

EYES:

  • Smoky Taupe Winged Shadow: To make her eye space as big as possible, I took my absolute favorite smoky taupe eyeshadow palette of all time (could I be more dramatic today?!) and swirled a blending brush in the taupe shade from the upper left corner. Then I started creating the shape by sweeping it across the lid then onto the crease, blending back and forth and dabbing it back into the palette often to load it back up with shadow. Then I determined how far out I wanted to shadow wing to go and dragged the brush back and forth as I elongated the space. See how far I took it above. If you ever take it out too far, don’t worry! You can just shorten it back with my baby wipe trick. I also swept the shadow along the lower lashline too. Then I took the gold sparkly shade from the center and swept it over the lid to really make her blue eyes pop.
  • Tightlining on Top: To keep with the commitment to big eyes, I didn’t line the lashline like I typically might as to not  lose an a millimeter of  lid space. Instead I tightlinted from up and under the lashes, wiggling this favorite black longwear pencil just below and in between the lashes. It’s my favorite because it glides on so smoothly with a lot of color payoff but then is waterproof and won’t budge.
  • Inner Rimming: To make her eyes more piercing, and still not lose a millimeter of lid space, I rimmed her inner waterline with this intense pure color kajal liner. Ok, yes technically this can “close” up the eye a little bit but in return, it makes them look like they can see right through to your soul!
  • Spiky Lashes: Britt and I have a thing for spiky lashes (for lack of a better word). That doesn’t mean clumpy though! We just like them really really defined and separated, with each lash coated, but again, not clumped. So the mascara choice is critical; it has to be really wet and intense right out of the gate so we don’t have to load them up with too many layers. We’ve found this mascara always brings it and used it that night.
  • Subtle Inner Highlight: I simply pressed my ring finger into the highlight shade from the palette and stamped it across the inner corners of the each eye, so it half covered the top and half covered the bottom part at the same time.

TBDBrittanySnow Eye

FACE:

  • Skin Perfecting: Ok, this beauty didn’t have much skin correcting work for me to do, as in none, but the flashes on the red carpet can be brutal, so I evened everything out with this industry standard liquid foundation that most of my colleagues and I trust to bring the skin to life while covering any redness, dark spots or blemishes. Brittany is shade #5 if that helps you determine if you’re darker or lighter.
  • Mattifying: I powdered only her T-zone with this setting powder that I know won’t ever get cakey.

CHEEK:

  • Light Contour: I love a subtle sculpt so I merely swept this mistake-proof bronzing powder just under her cheekbones, along her temples, hairline and jawline.
  • Hint of Blush: Again, I wanted to just add a subtle glow to focus all of the attention on the eyes, so I swirled this magic blush on the top half of the apples and cheekbones.

LIP:

  • Pinky Nude Touch of Color: I finished the look with this matte liquid lipstick (shade #500) that isn’t drying (like so many other matte liquid lipsticks out there) and adds the perfect amount of natural color.

TBDBrittanySnow final

 

If you want to know how to get her tousled top twist, you’re going to have to ask her lovely hair stylist Aviva Perea!

LINE AND DEFINE: A QUICK STUDY

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

By now you know that I love a good comparison study! Because when we see something side-by-side, it’s much easier to see what each technique really does. Does rimming the entire eye make it more piercing or make the eye look smaller? Is it more dramatic when it’s smudged? Is it worth it to rim the waterline? Let’s walk through each “ring”:  (more…)

BEAUTY BASICS

POST + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

When it comes to makeup artistry, you have to master the kohl pencil. It’s been around for a very long time and for good reason. So why not learn how to use it the most effectively? Here’s how: (more…)