Posts Tagged ‘lashline’

BEAUTY BASICS

POST + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

When it comes to makeup artistry, you have to master the kohl pencil. It’s been around for a very long time and for good reason. So why not learn how to use it the most effectively? Here’s how: (more…)

A LASHLINE STUDY

Post + Photography by Amy Nadine, Graphic Design by Eunice Chun

Today I’m bringing the spotlight to the lower lashline and the many options we have to define it! So I kept two variables constant (same eye and the same upper eye makeup) in order to really see the difference between six lower lashline applications. They are:

 

  • Bare — this is a great choice when you want all of the attention to go to the upper lid makeup (causing a “lifting” effect).
  • Mascara — coat the bottom lashes with a volumizing mascara. This option brings the lower lashes to life with nothing to compete against them.
  • Dotted line — take a velvet black pencil and draw a dot in between the lashes all the way across the lashline. This option makes it appear like you have more lashes than you really do, while also defining the line without anyone knowing you’re defining it.
  • Lined — start at the inner corner and drag the pencil across the lashline to the outer corner. This is the classic choice to define the lower lashline that women have done for decades.
  • Smudged — blend the line with a smudge brush using short strokes incrementally as you work your way across the line. This makes the line a little more “smoked” and less “lined”.
  • Inner Rimmed — gently pull the lower lid down with your finger for better access to the waterline then sweep the pencil back and forth along it until no spaces remain. This option closes up the eyes a little and makes them look smaller BUT makes them look much more intense  and piercing.

It’s nice to see all the options lined up (pun intended!) to really study the different effect each application has. I personally like to switch it up depending on my mood, day v. night, my outfit, etc but I have clients who insist on leaving it bare and others who have to have it inner rimmed… while most are open to whatever balances out the upper lid. I’d love to know what you prefer so please vote below!

 

INCOGNITO EYE DEFINITION

top photos: getty images/tutorial photos + post by amy nadine/graphic design by eunice chun

Your boyfriend says he likes you better without makeup… you’re meeting your friends to volunteer for Habitat for Humanity… you’re headed to a study group with class mates… all occasions when you don’t want to look like you’re trying too hard! But the problem is you’re not used to seeing yourself without a lot of makeup on and somehow you’ve forgotten that you’re pretty without it. Don’t fret! I get it. I swear my eyes look beady and washed out without eyeliner. But I love the look of just mascara, especially when I want to look effortless, have all the attention go to my lashes or paired with a bright lip. So this is where tightlining comes in. It’s the sister technique to rimming your bottom waterline, but this time you are pressing a gel liner into your upper lashline from directly below it for the ultimate definition, like I had the pleasure of doing on each of the red carpet looks above for Emmy Rossum, Kate Bosworth, Mia Wasikowska and Brittany Snow. It’s particularly great when you don’t want to lose any of your upper lid surface area, but still want to frame your eyes. Here’s how: (more…)

AN INSIDE JOB

Most days, we leave the inner water line bare. If you’re not sure what the water line is, I’m referring to the area on your lower lid just above the roots of your lashes that touches the inside of your eye. And when I want to really make sure it’s bare, I clean up any mascara, eyeliner or shadow that found its way on it by sweeping a wet cotton swab across it.

But on a lot of occasions, it’s fun to define the water line.  And you have two options: you can go dark (black, burgundy, brown, navy, forest green) or light (white or nude). But for teaching purposes, I’ll break it down to black and white.

post design by eunice chun/photos: imaxtree.com, luca cannonieri & greg kessler

BLACK: This makes your eyes look really intense and piercing. The downside is it closes up the eye and makes it appear a little smaller, but who cares because it’s so striking! Using a black eyeshadow, kohl liner or kajal liner, gently pull the lower lid downward and fill in the line by moving the pencil back and forth or “stamping” the shadow brush as you move across. You can see our model demonstrate the technique in Step 5 of our Purple Reign video tutorial. Kajal liner is the most intense option as it looks a little like a grease paint, but it doesn’t last as long. For longevity, first use a pencil then follow with a black shadow to make it last. Do NOT use a liquid liner as most will burn and give you red eyes. And don’t forget to check your inner tear ducts throughout the night for black gook (I don’t know the proper term for eye booger… gross!) and quickly clean it up in the powder room with your pinky finger.

photos: michele morosi & gorunway.com

WHITE: This makes your eyes look bigger and more open. It was most popular in the Sixties and every now and then my clients and I like to finish a look with it. Using a white kohl pencil, again gently pull the lower lid downward and trace the water line back and forth.  Clean up any residue that might end up on your lashes by pulling it off with your fingers, then follow with mascara.

So remember, when you want your eye color to look really piercing, rim the inner waterline with a dark shade, and if you want to open up your eyes and make them look bigger, rim them with a light color.

XO, Amy Nadine