Posts Tagged ‘kohl’

INNER LINER LONGEVITY

photos + post by amy nadine, graphic design by eunice chun

How oh how can we keep the inner waterliner from fading fast? It’s a tough one, because our eyes are meant to stay wet, so the pencil that we’ve traced along our inner rims is constantly rubbing against our wet eyes every time we blink. Sigh… but I can share this little trick that does seem to make it last a couple hours longer. I’m not saying it’s the healthiest thing to do, so no need to make that comment below! I’m just saying when I’ve sent a client down the red carpet, I’ve used this trick to make it last throughout a long awards show. So how about we do it on important nights, not every day?! Here’s how:

  1. Rim your waterline with a black kohl or kajal liner. This one is our favorite because it’s waterproof yet creamy. Blink your lids together to get the product on the upper waterline. For those of you who are very comfortable with lining your eyes, look down and lift your upper lid to rim the upper waterline as well.
  2. Dip a stiff angled eyeliner brush into a matte black eye shadow. Tap it a few times against a counter to get rid of the excess product, then “stamp” it along the waterline, directly on top of the original kohl liner. Really work it into the line that’s in between the waterline and the lash line, so no skin peeks through.

 

MUSIC FESTIVAL SPOTLIGHT: EVERLASTING EYES

photos: 1. alexei hay 2. thomas nutzl 3. mary rozzi 4. mario testino /post + design: amy nadine

Last week we determined a coral pout is a must when getting your festival on. This week we’re focusing on eyes and the underlying theme is LONGWEAR. Makeup has come a long way in the last few years and new formulas last for hours under the harshest partying conditions. Amen! Your look should look effortless and undone, so pass on powder shadow and go for one of these perfect festival looks:

1. Classic liquid liner (wing optional). Simple + classic choice. Our favorite is
Mark Get in Line Waterproof Liquid Liner in Painted Black because it won’t move
until you take it off. To perfect the shape, watch our lovely Lauren Conrad demonstrate exactly how in our Get Catty video tutorial.

 

2. Cream longwear shadow all over the lids and lashlines for instant drama. Our favorite is Laura Mercier Caviar Stick in Steel.

3. Longwear liner on top + bottom lashlines. Effortless and chic option that says you’re there for the bands but your eyes are defined. Our favorite is MAKE UP FOR EVER Aqua Eyes in Star Black. I had the privilege of doing Roxane Mesquida’s makeup in this shot for the Jerome C. Rousseau S/S 12 campaign out in Joshua Tree and remember thinking that day it would be the perfect makeup for Coachella!

4. Inner rimmed eyes. Yes rimming your inner water line makes them appear a little smaller, but what you give up in size you gain in piercing power and mystery. While kohl and kajal formulas are standard, switch to a longwear liner so it lasts. Our favorite is
NARS Larger Than Life Longwear Liner in Via Veneto.

Which is your favorite?

AN INSIDE JOB

Most days, we leave the inner water line bare. If you’re not sure what the water line is, I’m referring to the area on your lower lid just above the roots of your lashes that touches the inside of your eye. And when I want to really make sure it’s bare, I clean up any mascara, eyeliner or shadow that found its way on it by sweeping a wet cotton swab across it.

But on a lot of occasions, it’s fun to define the water line.  And you have two options: you can go dark (black, burgundy, brown, navy, forest green) or light (white or nude). But for teaching purposes, I’ll break it down to black and white.

post design by eunice chun/photos: imaxtree.com, luca cannonieri & greg kessler

BLACK: This makes your eyes look really intense and piercing. The downside is it closes up the eye and makes it appear a little smaller, but who cares because it’s so striking! Using a black eyeshadow, kohl liner or kajal liner, gently pull the lower lid downward and fill in the line by moving the pencil back and forth or “stamping” the shadow brush as you move across. You can see our model demonstrate the technique in Step 5 of our Purple Reign video tutorial. Kajal liner is the most intense option as it looks a little like a grease paint, but it doesn’t last as long. For longevity, first use a pencil then follow with a black shadow to make it last. Do NOT use a liquid liner as most will burn and give you red eyes. And don’t forget to check your inner tear ducts throughout the night for black gook (I don’t know the proper term for eye booger… gross!) and quickly clean it up in the powder room with your pinky finger.

photos: michele morosi & gorunway.com

WHITE: This makes your eyes look bigger and more open. It was most popular in the Sixties and every now and then my clients and I like to finish a look with it. Using a white kohl pencil, again gently pull the lower lid downward and trace the water line back and forth.  Clean up any residue that might end up on your lashes by pulling it off with your fingers, then follow with mascara.

So remember, when you want your eye color to look really piercing, rim the inner waterline with a dark shade, and if you want to open up your eyes and make them look bigger, rim them with a light color.

XO, Amy Nadine

A QUARTET OF LINERS

photos + graphic design by kristin ess, post by amy nadine

Decisions decisions… there are so many options out there nowadays when it comes to lining our eyes, which is so great, but can be a little overwhelming too. Hopefully this will help a lot to find the right type, even though you don’t have to pick just one (I personally could never give up using the other three!). All four can be found at your local drug store, beauty supply or department store.

KOHL LINER: This is the original classic. It glides on with ease and now comes in metallic finishes as well as matte solids. Because of their consistency, kohl pencils are amazing for smudging with your finger or a cotton swab, creating less of a “line” and more of frame. Try to really get in there between the lashes and even into your waterline for a more piercing look. Choose this type for the expansive color options, a softer look, blendability and as the only liner type that is truly safe to rim your inner waterline. ** Tip: for a thin line, use the point of the pencil, holding it almost perpendicularly (90-degree angle) to your eye. For a thicker line, slant the pencil to a 45-degree angle, using more of the side of the tip of the pencil. Don’t be afraid to try holding your pencil at different angles — make-up is temporary and you can wipe it off and try again as many times as it takes for you to get the hang of it. Also, you can adjust the width by how much you sharpen the pencil, so for more precise lines, sharpen it as far as you can to create a true point, and for more of a smoked line, heat up the tip with a quick blast from your blow dryer then dull the point on the back of your hand.

LONGWEAR LINER: These liners are newer to the cosmetic world but almost every brand has caught up and offers one now.  They are usually self-sharpening and turn up from the bottom, so you don’t have control over how how sharp/dull the tip is, but in return, you get a defined eye that once set, won’t bleed, run or fade and will last for hours (hallelujah!). Like the kohl pencil, you’ll want to gently lift your upper lid up with your ring finger first to have greater access to your actual lash line, then drag the pencil back and forth in between your lashes. Once you’ve covered that area, go a little higher and line right above your lashes like you would with a typical liner then again along your bottom lash line if you so desire. You have 30 seconds or so to blend and smooth over the line to make sure it’s not jagged before it sets for the day.

LIQUID LINER: Liquid liners are the most intense and precise way to line your eyes with a straight line or to wing the line into a cat eye. Because the formula dries within five seconds, there isn’t a lot of room for error and this turns a lot of us away from even attempting it. But I promise you, like anything else that’s new and scary, if you just go for it and practice, you CAN master it! Especially when you realize that you can wet a pointed q-tip and easily correct any jags, taking off a lot of the pressure to make the line perfect on your first try. Liquid liners either come in a tiny container/pot with their own super skinny brushes or are “pens” that write like a felt-tip pen but instead with brush-hair tips. Both versions work beautifully but I would look for a waterproof formula so the liquid won’t feather or run. Watch Lauren’s Get Catty tutorial to see how light-handed you’ll want the pressure to be when you draw the lines.

SMUDGE POT: This little beauty, also known as a gel/cream liner, came on the scene around the mid-90′s as more of a grease paint and has been improving and evolving into formulas that wear for hours and come in an array of colors and finishes (matte and metallic). It usually comes with a little liner brush or you can invest in a longer liner brush that is pointed or angled. Pick this type of liner if you prefer using a brush over a pencil and desire a strong line that isn’t as intense as a liquid liner but more intense than a pencil. Like a liquid liner, I would use it only along the lash line but not inside on the water line because a lot of formulas burn and are for external use only. But once you find a brush that you love (and most likely it will be the one that comes with it!), this super user-friendly type of liner might become your favorite because you can paint on the line with ease and it won’t feather.

XO, Amy Nadine