Posts Tagged ‘kajal’

BEAUTICIAN MAGICIAN: A VOLUMINOUS LIP ILLUSION

photos + post by amy nadine, design by eunice chun

We get a lot of emails asking how to make thin lips look fuller. So today I’m happily sharing one of my biggest secrets as a makeup artist! This ten-second trick instantly but subtly makes any-sized lips appear fuller using a concept from Basic Art 101: you add dimension by playing with shadows + light. If you want to bring a feature forward, you make it lighter, and if you want to push something back, you shade it darker. So to make the lips appear more voluminous, simply outline the top lip + the philtrum (the two midline grooves that run from the top of the lip to the nose) to highlight it. It’s a lot safer and less expensive than fillers and looks more natural.

If you have fair to medium skin, use NARS Larger Than Life Liner in Rue Bonaparte like I used on my assistant Carissa above. If you have tan to dark skin, use Stila Kajal Liner in Topaz.

  1. Start by tracing the two lines of your philtrum from your nose to your upper lip. Then trace the cupid’s bow (the area between the lines) and from each point to the outer corners. Only line the upper lip (leaving the lower lip natural).
  2. Lightly blend the line with your finger to make it undetectable but enough to still do its job.
  3. Finish by filling in your entire lips with a color/finish of your choice. We used Bite Beauty High Pigment Pencil in Rhubarb but you can use a liner + lipstick, just lipstick, just gloss or a tinted lip balm… whatever you are in the mood for that day!

MUSIC FESTIVAL SPOTLIGHT: EVERLASTING EYES

photos: 1. alexei hay 2. thomas nutzl 3. mary rozzi 4. mario testino /post + design: amy nadine

Last week we determined a coral pout is a must when getting your festival on. This week we’re focusing on eyes and the underlying theme is LONGWEAR. Makeup has come a long way in the last few years and new formulas last for hours under the harshest partying conditions. Amen! Your look should look effortless and undone, so pass on powder shadow and go for one of these perfect festival looks:

1. Classic liquid liner (wing optional). Simple + classic choice. Our favorite is
Mark Get in Line Waterproof Liquid Liner in Painted Black because it won’t move
until you take it off. To perfect the shape, watch our lovely Lauren Conrad demonstrate exactly how in our Get Catty video tutorial.

 

2. Cream longwear shadow all over the lids and lashlines for instant drama. Our favorite is Laura Mercier Caviar Stick in Steel.

3. Longwear liner on top + bottom lashlines. Effortless and chic option that says you’re there for the bands but your eyes are defined. Our favorite is MAKE UP FOR EVER Aqua Eyes in Star Black. I had the privilege of doing Roxane Mesquida’s makeup in this shot for the Jerome C. Rousseau S/S 12 campaign out in Joshua Tree and remember thinking that day it would be the perfect makeup for Coachella!

4. Inner rimmed eyes. Yes rimming your inner water line makes them appear a little smaller, but what you give up in size you gain in piercing power and mystery. While kohl and kajal formulas are standard, switch to a longwear liner so it lasts. Our favorite is
NARS Larger Than Life Longwear Liner in Via Veneto.

Which is your favorite?

AN INSIDE JOB

Most days, we leave the inner water line bare. If you’re not sure what the water line is, I’m referring to the area on your lower lid just above the roots of your lashes that touches the inside of your eye. And when I want to really make sure it’s bare, I clean up any mascara, eyeliner or shadow that found its way on it by sweeping a wet cotton swab across it.

But on a lot of occasions, it’s fun to define the water line.  And you have two options: you can go dark (black, burgundy, brown, navy, forest green) or light (white or nude). But for teaching purposes, I’ll break it down to black and white.

post design by eunice chun/photos: imaxtree.com, luca cannonieri & greg kessler

BLACK: This makes your eyes look really intense and piercing. The downside is it closes up the eye and makes it appear a little smaller, but who cares because it’s so striking! Using a black eyeshadow, kohl liner or kajal liner, gently pull the lower lid downward and fill in the line by moving the pencil back and forth or “stamping” the shadow brush as you move across. You can see our model demonstrate the technique in Step 5 of our Purple Reign video tutorial. Kajal liner is the most intense option as it looks a little like a grease paint, but it doesn’t last as long. For longevity, first use a pencil then follow with a black shadow to make it last. Do NOT use a liquid liner as most will burn and give you red eyes. And don’t forget to check your inner tear ducts throughout the night for black gook (I don’t know the proper term for eye booger… gross!) and quickly clean it up in the powder room with your pinky finger.

photos: michele morosi & gorunway.com

WHITE: This makes your eyes look bigger and more open. It was most popular in the Sixties and every now and then my clients and I like to finish a look with it. Using a white kohl pencil, again gently pull the lower lid downward and trace the water line back and forth.  Clean up any residue that might end up on your lashes by pulling it off with your fingers, then follow with mascara.

So remember, when you want your eye color to look really piercing, rim the inner waterline with a dark shade, and if you want to open up your eyes and make them look bigger, rim them with a light color.

XO, Amy Nadine