Posts Tagged ‘how to’

TACKLE ACNE & AGING SIMULTANEOUSLY

TUTORIAL + PHOTOTGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

TUTORIAL + PHOTOTGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

It’s easy to think you can only tackle acne OR aging, but not both at the same time. So if  we have acne, we just focus on that because it’s an immediate issue, and we don’t think we have the luxury to worry about the future, or we think an anti-wrinkle cream will break us out. Well here’s a proposed nighttime routine to battle both simultaneously the way that I do! Every night, start with your favorite anti-acne product, but only apply it thinly in the areas that you need it. Then quickly switch to your favorite anti-aging cream and apply it over the areas that you don’t worry about now but will creep up on you later! Here’s how:

TBD FAVORITES:

  • Look for an anti-acne medication that has either salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide combined with soothing formulas that won’t cause a third problem: irritation (try this one) or try this one that uses a more natural approach. But if you have found one that works for you, stick with it!
  • Two of our favorite anti-aging creams are this one for its powerful vitamin C and triple oxygen and this one for its combination of peptides, hyalauronic acid and anti-oxidants. Or try this one if you’re on a budget!

TBDAcne

ANTI-ACNE STEPS:

  1. Pump the size of a half-pea onto the palm of your hand.
  2. Slap your hands back and forth like you’re dusting them off to really thin it out across your fingers.
  3. Quickly swipe your fingers against your cheeks like you’re wiping off something that landed on them.
  4. Repeat on your forehead (if that’s an acne-prone area for you).
  5. Swipe them along the top and sides of your nose.
  6. Finally swipe them across your chin.

TBDAging

ANTI-AGING STEPS:

  1. Pump a couple times onto your fingertips as demonstrated above.
  2. Wipe your fingers back and forth against each other to spread it evenly.
  3. Dab it under your eyes (not too close so it doesn’t creep in while you’re sleeping and irritate them, causing puffiness) as well as on the upper lids themselves.
  4. Dab it along your lip lines and nasal labial lines.
  5. Finish by patting the rest over your neck and chest.

If this is too much for you (you know who you are, just admit it!), there are anti-acne anti-aging systems that tackle both in one solution! This one is my personal favorite and this one is popular too! Just remember, if you spend your twenties and thirties only concerned about clear skin, you’re missing years that you could have had under your belt tackling future wrinkles that one day appeared out of nowhere when you look in the rear-view mirror  at a stop light. It’s the one thing I wish I could tell my younger self regarding skincare… And don’t forget sunscreen!!

 

BRAID PASTE

the beauty department braid paste

PHOTOS/POST: KRISTIN ESS

Braiding can be a daunting task for even the most nimble fingers. I found something a while back that’s helped me teach people how to braid their own hair. Some super duper helpful stuff called  BRAID PASTE! There are tons of molding pastes on the market, and as I’ve showed you many times before, and I still love/use those as well! But sometimes you have to cocktail a paste with some shine serum because the paste by itself can be a bit too mattifying, causing hair to look a little dull. But braid paste has been helpful on pretty much all hair types when braiding, leaving it shiny but giving it soft hold so the braid doesn’t slip out as you go. Basically the cocktailing of paste and serum are already done for you!

the beauty department braid paste 2

 

For fine to normal hair: I like to use a pea size dab of paste to start and go back in if I need more. Put it in your palms and warm it up. Go middle to ends and then if you need any up toward the root, just use whatever is left on your hands.

For thick or coarse hair: When I braid thick hair, I usally break it up into two sections to apply paste, otherwise I feel like it gets concentrated in certain places and there’s none in other places. I break it up from ear to ear, horizontally, applying to the bottom half first and then the top half. Depending on the thickness, I would use a pea size or slightly smaller per section. Warm it up in your palms and then apply middle to ends. If you need some at the root just use whatever is remaining on your hands after you apply everywhere else.

 

braid paste the beauty department

 

After the paste is on the hair and you’ve done your braid, like a FISHTAIL BRAID, a ROSETTE BRAID or any braid for that matter, you can now loosen it up with ease knowing that the whole thing isn’t going to slip apart as you work some texture into it. It’s just a cool, very helful product to add to your arsenal if you love braiding or if you want to learn how to be a better braider.

Do you have any favorite products for braiding?

PARTY MAKEUP INSPIRATION

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

Calling all makeup mavens out there! This one’s for you! If you love to express yourself by standing out, you’re going to love how pretty this is to wear. It’s such a simple idea: just frame your eyeshadow! Here’s how:

TOOLS:

TBDTheFramedWingSTEPS

STEPS:

  1. I like to start with the eyeshadow first so there’s no accidental overlap, but you can reverse it if you want. Lightly wet the brush first for added intensity then swirl it in the silver shade and sweep it across the lid, winging it out and up as demonstrated on Magali above.
  2. Next simply outline the shape! Start at the inner corner and trace the liquid liner along the lashline, then wing it out along the bottom of the shadow’s wing, then back over across the crease line. If the original shape isn’t perfect, outline it as if it were then go back with a pointed q-tip and “erase” any silver shadow that is outside of the line.

TBDTheFramedWingFINAL

 

PLANNING FOR PLATINUM

the beauty department platinum

PHOTOS/POST: KRISTIN ESS, ALLIE MARIE EVANS

It seems to be a pattern lately… Girl gets lob. Girl the loves lob so much she gets a bob. Girl goes a little blonder. Girl loves lightest pieces so much she wants them all over, so girl goes platinum. And I love this game! When it comes to the palest shades of blonde there are some things you should know that will help you enjoy the cool-girl platinum life a little more. The brightest shade of blonde always has and always will be classic so whether you’re new to the world of “bleach and tone” or a total veteran, you can use this guide to help better your process. Let’s discuss…

PREPPING FOR PLATINUM:

Don’t shampoo that day. I always encourage my clients to avoid shampooing their hair the same day they’re getting it bleached and toned. A common misconception is that if the hair is dirty the bleach may not cut through. That’s not true at at all. In fact, I typically encourage my girls to not wash two days before they come in for a bleach and tone. Natural oils help coat the scalp and make it less painful in my, and my client’s, opinions. When you shampoo the hair the same day, you’ve stimulated the scalp and bleaching after that can be quite painful. So dirty hair is good! Avoid excessive brushing on the day of as well!

Newness is key. When going platinum, you don’t want anyone “out of touch” doing your color. Instead you may want to go to to a colorist who educates themselves on what new advances are being made in the color world. There are so many new toners, new bleaches, and new additives that you, as the client, depend on your colorist to research and find to make your experience and color as wonderful as possible. Make sure your colorist is up on the newest advances being made in hair color. Of course there are classic/old school techniques and if they work and you’re happy with them, great,

Don’t be cheap about platinum hair. Go to someone who uses Olaplex with their color! It’s a bond rebuilder that gets added into your bleach and it’s worth every penny. I use it on so many people and it’s such a game changer for a bleach and tone. You’ll pay a bit more for the color but your hair feels like it’s never been bleached!

Have realistic expectations. If you’ve never been platinum before, it may not happen the first time around. You may have to settle for a sweet shade of “champagne” or a “winter wheat” that’s almost platinum but not quite on round one. Platinum hair happens when you’ve literally emptied the hair of pigment so getting to that point can take a couple visits, end of story. If your colorist gets you there on the first try, count your lucky stars! But if it doesn’t, have patience. Below is a photo of Allie Marie Evans’ first ever round of bleach and tone. While it’s very pale and very pretty on her, it’s not completely white. And I made sure to tell her that might be the case before we did it. Sometimes it just takes a couple times! Depends on your natural lightness, darkness and previous colors in the hair!

Stock up on platinum stuff! You’re definitely going to want some purple-based toning supplies for home use. Purple is opposite yellow on the color wheel so when you’re trying to cancel out unwanted brassiness and yellow tones, you’ll need things that have purple pigment in them. Here are some of my favorites:

  • Schwarzkopf Bonacure Shampoo Okay, this shampoo is scary purple when you look at it in the bottle. People are often afraid of it when they see it for the first time, but it’s hands down my favorite purple shampoo for toning out yellow. It’s not as intense as it looks in the bottle, it tones amazingly well (and smells sooooo good).
  • ColorWow Brass Banned Mousse This stuff is pretty cool. It’s basically like a styling mousse but with tone in it! You apply it to damp hair and then blowout and style as usual. I love this because you don’t wash it out and most things that you use to tone at home get washed out but this is great for any intense yellow-y sections you may have. Mousse is mainly used to boost volume at the root and most platinum girls get brassy at the root more than anywhere else, so this is a win-win!
  • Rita Hazan Gloss Breaking Brass I love this because this is something you can do on your hair at home to tone and create shine. It’s like toner and treatment in one! I like to tell clients to put this on the root area for about 5 minutes after you shampoo, then work some through the middle to ends for 2 additional minutes (ends will soak it up much faster than the roots). Then you rinse everything and condition. It’s a great substitute for anyone who can’t get into the salon for a gloss in between colors.
  • Sachajuan Silver Conditioner There are a trillion purple shampoos but there are not a lot of great purple/silver conditioners out there. For someone who really gets brassy it’s great to use purple shampoo but maybe it’s not enough? Maybe you like it super silver-y. Maybe you need additional reinforcement with some purple conditioner! I’ve been super into Sachajuan’s conditioners in general lately, they’re SO good!
  • Shu Uemura Colour Lustre Cool Blonde Holy grail. The most intense at-home gloss toning I’ve ever seen. This is for those who love that ashy silver look ONLY. It’s pretty amazing but no joke, you must like ashy or silver tones. It’s expensive but very worth it. You put it on like a conditioner after you shampoo and it tones like crazy, not to mention, makes the hair epic shiny and soft. Ah-may-zing.
  • Shimmer Lights A budget-friendly classic! This pack comes with shampoo and conditioner together. It gets the toning job done, but it’s not my favorite for the way it makes the hair feel. But if you’re trying to save money this will do the trick and you’ll like the way it makes your wallet feel! Maybe do a deep conditioner or coconut oil application once a week if you use this.
  • John Frieda Toning Shampoo and Condtioner LOVE this for subtle toning. Let’s say you’re at that perfect platinum place, and let’s say you just need to maintain, this will be your jam (your very affordable jam!). It has subtle purple tones in both the shampoo and conditioner. It’s not overpowering and won’t make your hair ashy. It keeps the hair a nice shade of neutral.
  • Bumble and Bumble White Dry Shampoo This isn’t like the other white dry shampoos. It doesn’t become translucent and blend into the hair. It’s a pretty intense white powder that stays I would encourage you to get if you end up with brassy roots. You spray it anywhere you feel too yellow-y and it blends out the yellow nicely. You don’t want to over-do it with this or you might end up looking a little too Marie Antoinette for your day-to-day liking. But it conceals any yellow at the root temporarily, making it appear more white.

Don’t wait 2 months to get retouched. Okay, I understand if you like the platinum look with roots. Very cool-girl for sure. However, if you wait too long in between visits, it can be difficult for your colorist to control the consistency of color at the root. Your natural body heat accelerates the bleach at the scalp, if there’s more than a full inch or so of regrowth, you could end up with what we call “bands”. Bands are inconsistencies in the hair that you can usually see when you lift the hair up straight from the head. You don’t want them and the best way to avoid them is to get your platinum hair redone every 4 to 6 weeks at the latest.

Don’t book other things around it. From a colorist’s perspective, you’re asking for a miracle if you want to go platinum for the first time and then make a dinner date a few hours later. Just don’t. Make sure you don’t put a time constraint on your hairdresser when you’re doing this for the first time. It can take all day or maybe just a couple hours. Better to plan for more time for both you AND the colorist.

It’s going to be more expensive for the first time around. Depending on your hair, you could have a lot of color correcting that needs to happen in order to get to the palest blonde. Once you’re there, root upkeep is a different story. But the first time you do this, you’re probably going to pay a pretty penny. Just know that. When I take a client platinum for the first time, I charge them in the same way I would for a color correction, because you just don’t know how long it will take and how many bottles of color you’ll go through. The first time is an investment.

PHOTOS/POST: KRISTIN ESS, ALLIE MARIE EVANS

If you have any favorite tips, trick or products you like to share with your fellow PLATINUM peeps, leave them in the comments below! We love hearing your favorite things, too and so do our other readers. XX