Posts Tagged ‘hair’

MAPPING OUT FLAT IRON WAVES

photos: kristin ess, post: jessica swanson

photos: kristin ess, post: jessica swanson

So, you can knock out a full set of curling wand waves with one gloved finger tied behind your back? You still had time to ace that smokey eye after finishing bestie’s pull-through braid for Prom? Girl, we know you’re always up for a challenge, so we’re presenting to you our fave flat iron wave tutorial. There’s something just right about the look… not too precious or coiled, with subtle movement for manes both long and short. There might be several versions of flat iron waves out there, but this one gives us life! Here’s how to make it happen:

Before beginning, we prepped towel-dried hair with THICKENING SPRAY, then blow dried straight. This thickening spray helps to create the right amount of texture and a soft, sustainable hold. Keep in mind that once you’ve nailed your technique, it can also be an ideal way to touch up air-dried waves, or can be worked in with OTHER waving techniques.

Before things get heated, take a few minutes to practice with a BEVELED FLAT IRON while it’s still turned off (uh, ps: it’s on SALE! and it’s never on sale!). It’s important that you get the hang of the motions before adding heat, as this trusty iron has only one temperature setting. You’ll want to hit each section only once or twice at the most to avoid heat damage. The beveled edges of the iron are crucial for creating smooth waves, and help to avoid creating kinks in the hair. If you need more guidance on the steps below, go check out our instagram post right here!

flat iron wave tutorial the beauty dept

  1. To begin, hold a section of hair out from your head, and insert the flat iron at a diagonal, just below your scalp. Your waves will have natural, realistic movement if they are created diagonally towards or away from your face, or a mixture of the two. Gently close the iron as you curve it up and back down to form an arc.
  2. Because these waves are created using heat and tension, you’ll need to use a flat finger to hold the form of the previous arc, while you pull in the opposite direction to make your next wave. If your hair tends to slip, use two fingers to scissor the section instead. The second bend will be going the opposite direction, as we are creating alternating peaks and valleys. Just below the first arc, bend the iron down towards your head, then curve back up and release.
  3. complete the wave pattern that now should be visible with another arc curving away from the head, holding the previous bend for tension. You may have more length to wave here, but on this LOB we have reached the finish line!
  4. Slowly tap through the ends instead of bending them inward or too far outward to create a cool, modern finish.

To add just the right level of soft hold and enhance waves, we added a light veil of SOFT BEACH WAVE SPRAY, which while pricey, is just straight up the best! They also have a travel size available if you’re the type to dip your toes first. To truly nail the final look above, try THIS little hair hack after you apply your beach wave spray.

You’re ready to roll out! But maybe hide how good you are at this? Your girls are going to swarm, no doubt.

Don’t forget to tag us when you work those waves! @thebeautydept on insta.

AT-HOME HIGHLIGHTS

PHOTOS + POST: KRISTIN ESS

PHOTOS + POST: KRISTIN ESS

Last week, something fascinating happened; I learned that it IS possible for one to give themselves a mini highlight at home, both safely and beautifully. When I was about 14 I started highlighting all of my friends’ hair at home (oh yah… from a cap.) and somehow it always turned out great, so I suppose my initial confidence in this project sprouted from my experimental younger self mixed with my faith in Dana because she’s a smart girl. Now let me give you a little back story. I get asked about DIY highlights all the time and my reaction has always been the same: “JUST DO NOT.”, accompanied by a look that puts the fear of gawd into the person asking. But when Dana asked me if it was possible to add a little brightness around the front of her hair at home, as much as I wanted to put her on my schedule and offer to do it for her, something told me we should roll with this and turn this into a guide for those of you who really need it.

As a professional colorist, it used to be my NIGHTMARE to see people take bleach into their own hands at home. But in this day and age, I know people are going to do it anyway, so I figure if you’re audacious enough to try, the least I can do (as everyones digital big sister) is guide you through! All I ask is that you not try to do more than what’s easy and safe for you. I don’t recommend doing more than a little face frame highlight around the front because by doing more than that you could easily lose control and things could go very, very wrong. Okay… here we go.

To start, I’ll tell you the same thing I told Dana: please check all allergies (instructions to conduct an allergy test will be on the box), wear gloves, protective clothing and keep bleach off of your skin and away from your eyes throughout this process. Be an adult about this and don’t do things that are unsafe or unclear.

manic panic bleach kit the beauty department

First things first, you will need a bleach kit. I wanted to be as realistic as possible about this so instead of going to the professional beauty supply stores I normally go to, I took Dana to Sally’s Beauty Supply in LA because I know the majority of you will have a Sally’s and you don’t need a license to shop there.

We got THIS EXACT BLEACH KIT for $10. If that sells out, it’s also available RIGHT HERE for a couple dollars more. I’m sure there are other great at-home bleach kits, but I wanted to make sure we got one that is widely available! (bonus: this kit also comes with a pair of latex gloves!)

highlight brushes at home highlights

I think it’s important to have 2 brushes: one to apply the bleach and one to blend. Dana is going to use the application brush from the kit as well as a “spoolie” brush which is a small brush made for brows and lashes. It’s basically a disposable mascara wand. You can grab those at any beauty supply or if you don’t have that you can use an old toothbrush that you will then need to throw away.

at home highlights the beauty department

Next steps are going to be grabbing your SECTIONING CLIPS, putting on your PROTECTIVE CAPE, and clipping one side of your hair back. I encouraged Dana to part her hair where she normally would (she chose a subtle side part), and then push everything back on one side so she could focus on one side at a time. (By the way, it is SO fun and entertaining to watch and guide someone through this process!!)

thebeautydepartment.com at home highlights

Now you have to find the exact pieces you want to highlight! I asked Dana to look at her hair and find the key pieces that she thought would look best highlighted when her hair is styled. OHHHH! I should mention– I also asked her to do this on styled hair so she could see where the lighter pieces should fall with the way she normally wears it. I think that is very important! In the right photo above you can see the pieces she chose. I think each piece you choose should be no bigger than a regular shoe lace.

beauty dept at home highlights

Once you have your pieces out and the rest of your hair securely clipped out of the way, it’s time to mix your bleach! Follow every little tiny instruction on the box. I told Dana to mix half of the contents first and apply to one side, then go back and mix a fresh batch when she was ready to do the other side. Otherwise your bleach can oxidize and get weaker as it sits out.

diy highlight the beauty department

Time to applyyyyyy!! On the left you can see that she applied from the middle to ends. Do NOT even try to go higher than that, please. You’ll end up with problems. We want to keep this as easy and safe as possible, so pleeeeease don’t go up high with your bleach. Apply middle to ends on each thin section.

thebeautydepartment.com face frame highlights at home

Once you apply with your applicator brush from middle down, use your spoolie to soften the transition between the dark and light hair. You don’t want a harsh line where the bleach stops so lightly drag your spoolie up and down where your bleach stops and soften the look! Once you feel like you’re in a good place with your blending, put the colored strands in either saran wrap or HAIR COLOR FOILS to keep the color from drying out. (ps: I had Dana put one extra foil above that one just to be safe and keep it away from her eyes on the side that’s heavier. She’ll only need one foil on the less heavy side.)

Keep in mind, bleach works very differently than hair color. Hair color stops, bleach does not. You will need to check your hair from time to time inside the foil/saran wrap to see how light it’s getting. Since this is a 30 volume bleach, it moves quickly and you should keep an eye on it. Don’t try to make the pieces platinum, use your best judgement and follow the instructions. You just want a subtle highlight.

at home highlight tutorial the beauty department 1

Dana has very dark, very coarse, strong hair. I felt it was safe for her to section, mix more bleach and apply the second side while the first side was processing in the foil. But if you have dry, damaged hair, previously bleached hair or light hair naturally you should do one side at a time, start to finish because you may need to take side 1 off sooner than you think.

the beauty dept diy highlights

Keep an eye on both sides as they process. One will be lighter than the other as you go because you applied one side first. Do not apply heat when doing this at home. Things can get too out of control too quickly! Slow and steady definitely wins the race! In total Dana kept her foils on for 20 minutes per side but her hair is super dark and very strong. I would say the average is going to be 15 minutes give or take. Remember: Dana’s first side was put on 10 minutes before the other side so that time counts as processing time! In other words, her first side will be ready 1o minutes before the second side.

toning at home highlights the beauty department

When the hair is ready, you’ll rinse, shampoo and tone. For this Dana shampooed with THIS, then applied THIS TONER, then THIS CONDITIONER. What tone you like is really based on your own personal taste. When you go into your beauty supply, talk to someone who works there about what tones you like and tell them you’re looking for a toner rather than a permanent color. Toner is like a sheer-colored top coat for the hair. It can cut out yellow, add warmth, add pink tones, whatever you want. So since I don’t know what you’re going for, it’s best to get advised by someone who works there. If you’re not sure what tones you love, check my tone guides here: ASHY, NEUTRAL, GOLD WARM TONES, HINT OF REDRED. With Dana, she wanted to make it more neutral so she used an ash toner. She applied it and left it on for 6 minutes and rinsed when it looked ready. Remember to keep the rest of your hair clipped back and away from all this color. Only apply the toner to those few pieces you’ve lightened, otherwise it can mess with your hair color and it can create extra unnecessary work for your salon colorist if you apply all over.

at home hair color highlights kristin ess

This was the final result once the hair was dried and waved. I think she did an EPIC job, especially for never coloring her hair own or anyone else’s hair ever before. She slayed the game and I was like a proud mom when all was said and done. Too bad she doesn’t want to do hair! Ha.

You may ask why this is neccessary. I think we all have very different lives and different priorites and before anyone slams the idea of me sharing this info with the general public, we need to remember that we’re not all the same. This world is big and we don’t all have access to a great colorist, not all of us have money to spend in the salon and frankly some just don’t have the time. But we have access to information by the click of a button and that’s what this is. That being said, would you have the courage to brighten a couple little strands at home?

LONG-LASTING FRIZZ CONTROL BLOW-DRY

Photo & Post by Carachele Tyvan

Photo & Post by Carachele Tyvan

For some of us, maintaining coarse frizzy hair can be a pain! What many don’t know is that its not just the blowdryer or straightener that needs to be present in order to smooth out frizz, but that the look requires prepping and product to preserve smooth and sleekness! Here is a step to step on how to control the frizz and enjoy a long-lasting blow-dry.

Photo & Post by Carachele Tyvan

Photo & Post by Carachele Tyvan

  1. Prep damp hair with a hydrating frizz control leave in conditioner. Here we used THIS ONE.
  2.  Spray damp hair with a frizz control weightless styling spray. Our current fav is THIS ONE.
  3. First section off your fringe or front pieces  that frame your forehead (width distance temple to temple). Using a round brush smooth this section away from your forehead gliding the dryer along the top of the hair to seal and smooth. ( The key here is to point the nozzle not directly on the hair to dry, but to let it rest slightly above the hair. Doing this will allow you to control the hair creating a smooth and sleek look.)
  4. Continue with the front section and wind it into a tight coiled bun. Clip and leave to set.
  5. Next section off  hair on your right and left side. If you need to create smaller sections within these sections you may do so.
  6. Start with either side and smooth both sides using your round brush gliding the blowdryer slightly above the hair. With your round brush direct and blow the hair toward the face. This will help create volume at the root as well as create a equally balanced look and smoothness for both sides.
  7. After your sides are smooth. Work your way to the back of your head. Here create two horizontal sections. Clip top section and tuck away.
  8. Start with the bottom half and section into two vertical sections. Using the round brush smooth each section bringing the hair towards the face when blowdrying. (Continue step 8 for other sections.)
  9. Once you’ve reached the last section (top of the head) continue the same smoothing technique.  styling everything  forward (towards the face).
  10. When you’ve completed smoothing out hair. Gently blow warm air across the top of the head to tuck away any baby hairs (the key here is to not blow directly on the scalp but to hold the dryer at an angle. Use the palm of your hand and fingers (faceup) to comb through the hair from the scalp while drying. This will help control the hair and tuck away those stubborn baby hairs).
  11. Now remove clip from first section, unwinding it split in half or your desired part.
  12. Polish off your frizz free blow-dry with a finishing humidity spray. This will preserve a long-lasting sleek look. Here we used THIS ONE
  13. For extra smoothness run a nourishing hair oil through the mid-shaft and ends. Here we USED THIS ONE.

ENJOY!

EASIEST UPDO EVER

thebeautydepartment easiest updo

photos: Kristin Ess/ post: Carachele Tyvan

Online hair tutorials can be daunting, for sure. Rarely can these how to’s be mastered by someone with little to no hair skills. If your one of those people who don’t have that natural beauty school brain. You’ll want to save this in your favorites right away! Here’s how the easiest hair tutorial ever is done!

the beauty department easiest updo ever tutorial hair

 

  1. This hair was curled the day before using THIS IRON. It was slept on and not brushed in the morning, so ” second day hair ” is a big yes for this look.
  2. Spray your favorite dry shampoo at the root. We are currently obsessing over THIS ONE.
  3. If you need additional texture or if your hair feels to soft (like it will slip out of bobby pins) add a light styling aid. Here we used THIS TEXTURE SPRAY, scrunching it into the middle and ends.
  4. Grab two small sections from the front/sides above your ear. Tie them together in the back using a clear elastic. (see photo for placement)
  5. Flip that! Twist that ponytail up and over itself (we went inward toward the scalp). Remember in grade school when you would do the “topsy turvy”? That’s basically the same thing.
  6. Use 3 more small elastics and make 3 tiny low ponytails like you see in the photo.
  7. Take the middle ponytail and tuck it up and over your top (twisted) ponytail. I like to give these sections a little twist on their way up. Secure these sections using a large bobby pin. You can do detail work at the end using smaller pins but it’s best to secure first using the larger pins.
  8. Continue pinning your side sections.
  9. Again notice she’s giving it a small twist away from the face before tucking and pinning. It creates better texture and color depth.
  10. Continue twisting and pinning.
  11. Add extra pins for extra security if you need them!
  12. At the end, if you see any fallen pieces, flyaways or hairs out of balance, use small bobby pins to tuck and secure!
  13. Finish using a flexible hairspray. You don’t want helmet head, ya know? Here we used THIS ONE!

the beauty department easiest updo

Here’s the look from the front. This isn’t supposed to be a big, voluminous look. It should be subtle and simple, but if you feel the need to pump up the jam, get your teasing comb out and do you.