Posts Tagged ‘foundation’

FULL COVERAGE MAKEUP

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

This is what I personally do every day. Because full coverage foundation everywhere covers but ages me. I feel pretty when I put it on in the bathroom but when I look at it in the car mirror, it makes my creases look deeper and my pores bigger. On the other hand, if I just wear regular foundation, my chin and my nose still are red, my sun spots are still glaring and any blemishes I might have aren’t covered. So here’s the beautiful compromise that I made. First I apply my favorite tinted moisturizer all over my face and neck to even out my skin tone enough and give me a glowing radiance.¬†Then I pump a tiny bit of my favorite full coverage foundation and apply it only to the areas that I want more coverage. These areas are nowhere near my smile lines or creases so I don’t have to worry about it settling into them and making them bigger. Then I do a quick powder and a quick spritz of my favorite setting spray and go!

TOOLS:

STEPS:

tbd full coverageSTEPS

 

THE FOUNDATION GOLDEN RULE

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

I realized the other day that when it comes to applying foundation, I always have our models use a foundation brush or egg-shaped sponge, because those are what I use on my clients. But when I apply my own, I always use my fingers. Probably partly because I clean brushes and sponges so often for my kit, that I don’t want to add another one, and partly because I love how my fingers warm up the foundation and I can really tap it in. And of course, it’s the fastest route. But using your fingers can go awry quickly if you don’t apply it in layers! I cannot stress this enough: apply only one pump, rub it between your fingers, tap it into skin, then go back and do only one more pump, rub it between your fingers and tap it into your skin. Stop and take a second to see if that’s enough of if there are a few areas that need a little more coverage then pump one more time, rub it in between your fingers and spot apply. That’s the only way to do it. If you pump three or more times and apply it that thickly, you’re left with a heavy and streaky application that will only end up all over your phone, even after you powder it. No bueno. Here’s how to get better results:

TOOLS:

tbd foundation golden ruleSTEPS

STEPS:

  1. Hold your fingers together tightly and use your other hand to pump only one time onto them as demonstrated above.
  2. Rub your fingers together to thin it out.
  3. I like to tap it as I rub it all over my face and neck. Try it and let me know if you like it too!
  4. Really get into the hard-to-reach areas.
  5. Repeat step one by pumping only one time into your fingers.
  6. Repeat step 2 by rubbing your fingers together to thin it out.
  7. Repeat steps 3 and 4 by tapping and rubbing it all over. If you need more coverage, you can add another layer.
  8. Set with powder (not shown but this is my favorite powder right now ($$)).

If you’re a sponge or foundation-brush-kind-of gal, do this same golden rule by only applying one pump at a time so you only apply one layer at a time. It’s the only way to help it become one with your skin instead of mostly sitting on top of it.

FOUNDATION & POWDER RENEWAL

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

I can’t tell you how many times I leave for a job in the morning feeling quite lovely then look in the mirror around 3pm and gasp! I mean. What happened to my foundation and powder application? Life, I guess! But I’ve learned that the same product that I set my makeup with is what I can use to revive it. Except for instead of spraying it (which sets it), I do this technique. It’s something I discovered on set with clients because as much as they may love me, they don’t really appreciate me walking up to them and spraying their faces! So I needed to find a way to revive their powdered foundation another way. Here’s how you can too:

TBD Midday Blues

 

TOOLS:

  • Your Favorite Face Spray — By now you know I’m beyond obsessed with Caudalie’s Beauty Elixir (I buy the full size one ($$$) but you can try it out in this size ($)) because it takes years off of my clients’ faces by creating the perfect amount of dewiness and glow without looking shiny or oily. I also really really love this dewy mist ($$) that instantly brings foundation and powder back to life, no matter how caked they have gotten.
  • A Beautyblender Sponge — I especially love this one that comes with this fancy ring stand ($$) because it should always be on the counter so it can breathe and not in a makeup drawer with no circulation (I learned the hard way once when I cleaned it and put it back in my kit, only to find it mildewed!).

STEPS:

  1. Spritz a few times into the palm of your cupped hand.
  2. Dab the back of your egg sponge into the solution until all of it has been absorbed.
  3. Now gently tap the back of the sponge over any areas that have gotten cakey.
  4. Continue over areas that need life again.
  5. You can do this any time your face needs it!

 

THE CONCEALER WARM UP

the beauty department concealer warm up

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

The under-eye area is a tricky one. Covering dark circles can go awry and frustrate even the most skilled of makeup artists! Especially when the product creases and accentuates the lines. But you can actually help prevent that from happening by doing this one thing that accomplishes two results.

When you swipe the concealer stick against the inside of your arm where your pulse is, it:

  1. thins it out so you don’t apply it too thickly and
  2. warms it up with your body’s temperature so it glides on and melts in more easily. Hallelujah!

My friend and up-and-coming actor Amelia Brantley shows us how here:

TOOLS:

STEPS:

  1. Swipe the concealer stick against the inside of your hand where you would check your pulse (as demonstrated by Amelia above). This thins it out.
  2. Wait at least 30 seconds while your body temperature warms it up. While you’re waiting, work on a different feature of your face!
  3. Sweep the brush against the product on the pulse of your arm to load it with a thin layer.
  4. Now follow the hollow of the under eye area, where the skin is the darkest.
  5. Continue along the hollow as shown above.