Posts Tagged ‘flush’

APPLES VS. CHEEKBONES

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

We were just curious… do you apply your blush to the apples of your cheeks or your cheekbones? It’s a preference thing obviously, but it creates a different outcome, even if it’s subtle. I have clients that only want blush on the apples of their cheeks and others that want only want it high on their cheekbones. Here’s the difference: if you have strong cheekbones with a deep hollow in the cheeks, applying blush only to the apples softens the face and makes it less angular, while applying it only to the cheekbones reinforces the angles. If you have a rounder face, applying blush only along the cheekbones helps contour it and make it appear less round, while applying it only to the apples will reinforce the roundness. Make sense? Most of us don’t have super angular faces, so the cheekbone route is a good one to take. Otherwise, it can be a mood thing… how you feel each day and how you want to play with your face shape! Either way, just stay high on either, meaning apply the blush on the upper half of the apples or the upper part of the cheekbones for the most flattering looks.

TBD SPLURGES & SAVES:

  • Favorite Cream Blushes: We die over this one and we die over the price of this one!
  • Favorite Cream Blush Brushes: This one is a staple in my kit and this one fits my budget.
  • Favorite Powder Blushes: This one has the prettiest texture and color payoff and this one gives you instant cheekbones at an amazing price.
  • Favorite Powder Blush Brushes: I’ve only used this one to apply powder brush for at least five years now. This one is by far the best quality of the inexpensive ones out there.

APPLES:

Smile in the mirror so your apples pop out. Hold the smile while you swirl the blush along the top half of it. Make sure not to go too close to your nose and stay directly on the apple.

CHEEKBONES:

Suck in your cheeks so your cheekbones pop out. Sweep the blush along the top side of it. Make sure not to go too close to your eyes and stay directly on the cheekbone.

TIPS FOR BOTH:

  • When you load up your brush in the blush, don’t ever go directly from the product to the face. If it’s a powder blush, first tap off the excess against the compact or against your countertop. If it’s a cream blush, first swirl it on the back of your hand to smooth it out and eliminate the excess.
  • Choose a cream blush if you like to blush before your powder, or if you don’t powder at all. It creates a natural dewy glow.
  • Choose a powder blush if you use mineral powder foundation or if you like to powder before you apply blush.
  • If you want it to last for hours, use both! Apply cream blush first, then apply powder blush on top to set it.

A ROSY FLUSH

TBDCheekTrioFB

Yes of course you can use only one blush shade. But there’s something beautiful that happens when you combine a warm shade across the whole cheekbone, a cool shade to pop the apple and a shimmer shade to highlight everything! Sometimes a cool tone by itself can come off a little clowny and needs the support of a warm shade. Sometimes a warm shade doesn’t pop enough without a splash of a cool tone. And both cool and warm shades come to life with a little shimmer to draw the attention to the cheekbones. Here’s how to create a flush inspired by roses:

TBDCheekTrioTools

TOOLS:

  1. A Warming Shade — I used Tarte Chic to Cheek Amazonian Clay Blush in Classic (check out the value in this holiday set!) but you can use any warm-toned powder blush. Think peach, warm nudes or apricots. I used the Charlotte Tilbury Powder & Sculpt Brush because of its perfect shape to apply then blend back and forth on its side.
  2. A Pop Shade — I used Dior Rosy Glow Awakening Blush in Petal but again, you can use any cool-toned powder blush. Think pink, fuchsia… anything blue based. I love to use this MAKE UP FOR EVER Blending Blush Brush for swirling on the apples of the cheeks.
  3. A Highlighting Shade — I used Maybelline Mineral Powder Illuminator but you can use your favorite highlighting shimmer powder. I used the Armani Round Eye Contour Brush because it’s really fluffy like a blush or powder brush but gives way more precision.

TBDCheekTrioSTEPS

STEPS:

  1. Sweep the warming shade across the entire cheekbone, including under where #2 is applied above.
  2. Swirl the cool shade in a circle on the top half of the apple that is circled on Magali above. (To find the apple, smile in the mirror and it will pop out like a little ball.)
  3. Finish by tracing the highlighting shade on the top half of the cheekbone, just under the eye area.

HIGHLIGHTER AND BLUSH DUO

Liquid blush is the best way to create a natural-looking flush. It melts into the skin better than cream or powder blush. Liquid highlighter illuminates your eyes better than powder highlighter can. Basically, liquid is the way to go. And dotting, blending and stippling are how we get it done.  (more…)

SUMMER MATTE PAT DOWN

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

Cream blush rocks because you can blend and move it better than powder blush, really mimicking a natural flush. But unfortunately, it doesn’t stay on as long… unless you take a second and do this! Why? Because the blotting papers grab any oil or excess liquid (that could become problematic) and leave the pigment/color behind! Genius. Here’s how:

TOOLS:

STEPS:

  1. Press the brush against the cream blush a few times to load it with a thin layer then always remember to give a couple more quick pats against the back of your hand to smooth it out before you go near your face! Smile in the mirror so the apples pop out then stipple (press) the brush on the top half as our model Taye demonstrated above and continue stippling along the cheekbone as you work your way towards the temple. Continue with the other cheek.
  2. Now here’s the trick: press the blotting paper against the area that you just applied the cream blush to absorb any excess oil and leave only the pigment behind. You won’t believe how much oil comes out!