Posts Tagged ‘face shapes’

HAIR TALK: INVERTED TRIANGLE FACE SHAPE

post: Kristin Ess graphic design: Eunice Chun

Last but clearly not least in our hair talk on face shapes we have the inverted triangle.(Hooray!!) Inverted is just a fancy way of saying “upside down” or “flipped”. Knowing that you can clearly see (thanks to Polish beauty Anja Rubik) that an inverted triangle face shape is wider at the forehead than it is at the jaw. Most of my clients with an inverted triangle face shape ask me to make their forehead appear less wide. That’s pretty easy to do, but you also want to avoid making the face look longer and more narrow when doing so. Here are some helpful hints from me to you:

  • Half ups: I love half updos for girls with inverted triangle face shapes. A half updo can narrow the forehead + widen the look of your cheekbones + jawline. Gotta love a good illusion! I think the key with Anja’s look on the bottom left is that the hair is wavy and that she has a center part. I like that the “baby hairs” just above her temples are not pulled back into the braids– they’re down and it’s just enough to help diffuse the width of her forehead.
  • Bangs: Almost every single girl I know with an inverted triangle face shape loooooves having bangs and will never give them up. Obviously if you want to embrace the forehead you’ve got and not have bangs– do it, girl! On the other hand, if you want the option to show a wider forehead sometimes and narrow the appearance of your forehead other times, you’ll need some sort of bang. Avoid a heavy straight-across bang only because it could potentially make your face even more triangular. I would recommend something similar to Alexa’s long bangs, Brigitte’s “curtain bangs” which are essentially short and long bangs combined, or this heavy side swoop bang. I would even say you could get away with a half-moon bang  in this post as long as it’s got some soft roundness to it and it’s not just a blunt, straight across, heavy bang.
  • Center parting: The key to center parting on an inverted triangle face shape is not letting it lengthen you. You don’t want your bangs or layers to be styled “down”, you want them to be styled “out” once they pass your eyes/eyebrows. You want that hair from the center part to then lead into some sort of layers near your cheekbones. I always tell my clients “style your bangs in the direction of your ears.”
  • Wavy bob + bangs: This is one of my favorite haircuts for the inverted triangle face shape. Also one of the most flattering, softening, balancing cuts for this face shape. The reason is, you can typically get great texture and layers in a bob or long bob. The side bang leads into layers which do exactly what is mentioned above– widens the cheekbone/jawline and diffuses the width of the forehead. Everything just looks in perfect proportion. LOVE.
  • Diagonal side part: This is a great trick. See how Anja’s hair is parted diagonally in the bottom right photo? If all that hair was pulled to one side it would likely make the forehead appear wider. Use a tailcomb or a pencil if you don’t have a tailcomb, and start slightly off center, working your way over to a deep side part. That way there’s hair on both sides but it still appears that you’re wearing a heavy side part.
  • Super straight hair with minimal layers: That would be the one style I would suggest girls with inverted triangle face shapes should avoid. All that’s going to do is make your face appear longer and more narrow. You want layers, especially around the face.
  • Updos + Chignons: You can do almost any updo, chignon or pony when you have an inverted triangle face shape. Also, leaving out a few soft pieces around the face will help balance out your triangle. I find that a center or off-center part is most flattering but not mandatory. I mean, clearly the updo in the top photo from the Louis Vuitton show is GORGE– a messy french twist with lots of texture and a thin headband! Obsessed.

Do you have an inverted triangle face shape? If so we would love you to share your thoughts, tips and your own tricks below! Thank you for being so patient in waiting for each of your face shapes! Hope this series has helped you guys understand more about how to wear your hair and what to talk to your hair stylist about. xo

 

HAIR TALK: DIAMOND FACE SHAPE

post: Kristin Ess graphic design: Eunice Chun

On to the next one– the gorgeous diamond face shape! If you’re a diamond, your hairline is more narrow. Also, starting below the ear your jawline comes to a point at your chin. (If  your jawline narrows but your hairline is wide, then stay tuned for the inverted triangle face shape which coming will be next!) Here are some tips + tricks for styling hair around a diamond face shape:

  • Stay back: The diamond face shape can get very narrow when there’s a lot of hair surrounding the face. I love how Ashley pushes it all back in the top photo. Typically diamonds have a great jawline so let that it show, girl! If it’s hard for you to get your hair to stay back, try applying a light holding mousse at the root before you blowdry and then tuck behind the ear.
  • The One + Only: I love when diamond face shaped girls push one side back. Like I said before– a too much hair can crowd and make a diamond face appear too narrow so it’s good to open one side up and show off that great jawline. Any kind of texture works well here– smooth waves, messy textured waves, pin straight, or crazy curls. It says “Look at my pretty hair” but it doesn’t hide your pretty face.
  • Deep side part: I loooove the way a deep side part looks on a diamond face shape but it can often be a challenge because of how the hairline narrows. If you find it challenging, use some mousse at the root before you blow-dry. This will help the hair stay in place instead of falling forward as it naturally wants to. Also, try parting on the diagonal– using a tail comb, start deep to one side and come come back to the center as you go back. That will help balance out the weight and not make the heavy side too heavy.
  • Bangs: I like to avoid heavy, straigh bangs on my clients with diamond face shapes. The reason is- the hairs in front of a narrow hairline usually grow upward or out to the sides so it can be a bit of a challenge to control straight heavy bangs. I do, however, love “curtain” Bardot bangs for this face shape. A center or slightly off-center parted curtain-y bang will help maintain the silhouette of the diamond face shape and is typically much easier to control because you’re not trying to fight their natural direction so much.
  • Haircuts: Layers, layers, layers. No one is a better candidate for lots of layers than a girl with a diamond face shape. Lots of layers keep a diamond face shape “open”. Less layers will fall in front of the widest points of a diamond face shape and narrow you out. See how Ashley looks more narrow in the bottom right hand photo? Still gorgeous but her face definitely appears more narrow than the other images. Luckily it looks great sleek and straight because she’s got layers. The hair still moves and doesn’t just hang. It’s important to have layers in order to wear super straight hair on a diamond face.
  • Ponytails + Updos: What can I say? Honestly, updos + ponytails are always great on diamond face shapes. High, low, center, whatever! Pulling the hair back off of a diamond face shape is a good thing. I can’t say there is a specific guidline for diamonds to follow here. You lucky girls!

Are you a sparkling diamond? If so, please feel free to share your experiences with your face shape below. Tell us your best tips and tricks! xo

HAIR TALK: ROUND FACE SHAPE

post: Kristin Ess graphic design: Eunice Chun

Let’s be honest- SO many of us think we have a round face. But when it comes to face shapes you really want to try and be sure you know which one or two you are. Use this guide to get a more accurate answer. The best way to sum up a round face is that it’s just about if not the same in width as it is in length with no major corners at the jaw. One person that I think has always done a great job keeping her round face looking more oval-ish Ginnifer Goodwin. She doesn’t hide behind her hair which many people with a round face shape try to do. In this particular post, I’m going to be speaking from personal experience as I’m a round-faced girl. Here we go…

  • Shaping: One thing I always tell my girls with a round face is to keep a little hair out in front of the ear and not to tuck it back. Look at each of Ginnifer’s images above– there’s always a little something in front of one ear or both. The reason this is helps a round face is because it visually stops the width of your face. It cuts off “the circle” and tricks the eye into thinking that the width of the face face stops there.
  • Don’t over do it: Those of us with round faces tend to want to hide behind lots of hair (story of my life!). Problem is, we’re not fooling anyone. I’ve learned over the years that doing so often just frames your cheeks and can make them look fuller. I’ve also learned that it doesn’t take a lot of hair being pushed forward to minimize the roundness of the face– instead try the tip above. Let that beautiful face come out from behind the hair curtain!
  • Deep part: A deep part is wonderful for a round face because it changes the focal point of the length of your face. People can’t see if your face is the same in length and width. If you look at the bottom left photo, Ginnifer parts the hair, it goes up off of her forehead and then down at the cheek. You can obviously see that this makes her face look more oval. On the bottom right, she swoops it down and across which also makes the face look a bit longer. Either way a deep side part with some wave is perfect for a round face.
  • Chop Chop: Girls with round faces do not like to hear this 90% of the time, but I’m going to say it for the other 10%– if you’re comfortable in your own skin and not insecure about the way you look, don’t be afraid to just chop that hair right OFF! Round + oval faces are the absolute best face shapes for going super short and no one works a better pixie than Ginnifer Goodwin. She plays with so many textures and she minimized the roundness in just the right ways. I love when she makes it a little fuller on top with lots of choppy texture because it actually elongates the face. If you google “Ginnifer Goodwin short hair” you’ll see– this girl knows how to do it. She also had a lot of beautiful ‘dos when her hair was long so she’s a great one to look up when searching for round face hair style ideas.
  • KEEP THE PIECE: Really important– ask (beg) your hairstylist to leave that little section that falls in front of your ear  on the long side. Not longer than the rest neccessarily, but as long as the length of your hair. I’ve been cutting hair for 16 years and I can tell you, as soon as you cut into that piece, you start opening up the face. Round-faced girls usually want the opposite. You want that particular section to stay long and you want it to always run right along the side of your face. That will be your key piece in minimizing roundness. Doesn’t matter if you have a bob, a pixie, or hair down to your waist with lots of layers. Don’t  layer or cut that little section shorter than you have to. (No joke– I physically hold on to those pieces under my chin when anyone cuts my hair… but I’m crazy.)
  • Short haircuts: Keep some texture in short hair. Sleek short haircuts on a round face can make it appear more round. I’m not saying it’s not cute to have a sleek bob on a round face– it’s actually one of my favorite things because those girls look like DOLLS. But, for an every day short cut, meaning a bob or pixie, texture will diffuse the roundness. If your hair is naturally straight, put some weightless mousse in the roots and then give it some quick curl with curling wand.
  • Mid-length haircuts: Layers in medium-length hair are great for round faces as long as “The Piece” mentioned above remains intact. When I wear medium-length hair, I always ask whoever is cutting it for me to only give me layers “above the occipital”. In English, that means that the only hair that gets layered is the hair that grows above that bone you feel in the back of your head. That usually leaves a nice weight to the ends and then plenty of layers to play with.
  • Long haircuts: I find that the best way to wear long or super-long hair with a round face is to add layers and a long bang. Long hair with a round face needs some texture and the only way to get that is by adding layers. You can put all the texturizing product in the world in long heavy hair but you won’t get any long term lift and movement without some layering. I think the biggest mistake a girl with a round face can make is having really long hair with no layers because all that will do is draw attention to your cheeks. Again, ask to keep “The Piece” mentioned above.
  • Bangs: The rumor is that girls with round faces shouldn’t have bangs. That couldn’t be further from the truth. It’s more than fine to cut bangs and have a round face as long as they’re the right kind of bang. Here’s a bang guide to help you see the difference. I always check the forehead length before giving someone bangs. If you have a short forehead and a round face, skip the bangs. If you have a average sized forehead or a larger forehead, go for it. Just make sure there are longer pieces on the side like you see here and here.
  • High Pony: We round-faced girls don’t always love pulling all of our hair off of our face but sometimes a high pony can help elongate a round face. The volume on top can extend the silhouette of the head tricking the eye into thinking you have more of an oval face. Try wearing it with some loose natural pieces falling out in front of the ear and alongside your face.

Hope these tips help you and I hope you’ll share some of your favorite styles for a round face below! xo

HAIR TALK: RECTANGLE FACE SHAPE

post: Kristin Ess graphic design: Eunice Chun

When it comes to a rectangular face shape, the goal is to keep the face from appearing longer than it is naturally. There are many things that contribute to lengthening a rectangular face– hair length, volume and cut. Here are a few ideas for you gorgeous rectangle gals! (more…)