Posts Tagged ‘crease’

HOW TO PREVENT YOUR CONCEALER FROM CREASING

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

As a makeup artist, there are about five questions that I get asked over and over. I get this one the most: how do I prevent my undereye concealer from creasing? I totally get it! You conceal your undereyes either because you have dark circles or because you love to brighten the area. Then you look in the car mirror and it’s creased. Not cool. But that’s only because you didn’t set it right! We tend to apply a little more concealer than we need and the excess product travels and settles into the creases. All can be prevented if we only took a second to absorb the excess with a quick press of tissue then an immediate setting with powder. Yes powder! A lot of my clients fear powder in the undereye area because they feel like it will settle in their lines and make them look older. I promise you if you follow these steps with these products, it will not crease. I can only feel confident saying that because I do it on all of my clients and myself and have for a very long time. Here’s how you can too:

TOOLS:

  • Your Favorite Concealer — we’re all obsessed with this one ($$) and this top-secret drugstore find ($) on sale!
  • A Tissue
  • Your Favorite Setting Powder — this ($$) is what I’ve been using on all of my girls this summer because one of my makeup idols Robin Siegel (who did the makeup for Jen, Courtney and Lisa for years on Friends) taught me about it and it never fails to set everything but not be cakey.
  • A Powder Puff — I love this one ($$) and this one ($). If you haven’t added a puff into your tool kit yet, you’re killing me! It presses the powder into the skin so it stays put.

STEPS:

  1. Apply concealer to the undereye area. Revisit this post to make sure you’re doing the right!
  2. Wrap a tissue around your finger and press it on the concealer you just applied.
  3. Continue lifting and pressing along the undereye area to remove the excess product that would have ended up creasing.
  4. Set it with powder by pressing the puff against the pressed powder then pressing it over the undereye area.

For those of you asking for the other products applied, I used this shadow palette (Beigely on lid and Orange You Fancy in the crease), this lash lifting mascara and this false lash strip!

DRAW, SMUDGE & SMEAR!

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

When shadow sticks came along a few years ago, the makeup industry was changed forever! They put the intensity of a cream shadow into a rounded stick that glides with ease. Then they formulated them to be smudgeable for a minute then set and last for hours without fading. Like all makeup, you can apply them however you prefer. I’ve found that if you want to make sure it doesn’t crease in the crease, this is the way to apply it. And the trick is not to apply it into the crease. Instead, only apply it on the lid, then smear and smudge it with your finger into the crease creating a slow fade. Here’s how:

TBDShadowSticks101TOOLS

OUR FAVORITES:

TBDShadowSticks101DIAGRAM

STEPS:

  1. Directly from the tube, draw across the entire lid as demonstrated on Lacy below. Leave the crease bare.
  2. Place your finger on top of what you just drew and start to smudge it upward into the crease.
  3. Now that you’ve smudged it into the crease, start to “drag” or pull it towards the outside corner of the crease. See the diagram below.
  4. Apply a couple coats of mascara and you’re good to go!

TBDShadowSticks101STEPS

If you prefer brushes over your fingers, you can absolutely use one to blend the shadow up in step 2 and over step 3, but with your finger, you have the advantage of your body temperature to help move the product around better. You can also apply it to the bottom lashline if you wish. Just trace along it with the stick then smear it gently with your finger or a Q-tip.

TBDShadowSticks101FINAL

 

ELONGATE THE LID

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

There are many benefits to elongating the lid. The most obvious is that it makes your lid space look longer. But it also elongates your eye, which is particularly great if your eyes are more on the rounded side and you want them to appear more like Bria’s almond-shaped eyes above. I love rounded eyes and don’t think they should be anything but embraced, but we get so many emails asking how to make them appear less round, so this is an option. Last, it makes the whole eye area appear bigger. And, let’s be honest, it’s a little edgy and fun! Here’s how to pull it off:

TOOLS:

STEPS:

  1. Sweep the shadow all over the lid and crease then start pulling it outward along the crease as demonstrated above. Switch to a clean brush and blend back and forth like windshield wipers.
  2. Trace the shadow along the bottom lashline, continuing past the outer corner until you meet the top shadow.

You can use any color in the rainbow but I love it in a dramatic charcoal like above or in a soft shimmer pearl or a matte smoky taupe! You can line on top of it but it will detract from in a little. Don’t forget mascara!

WINGED LINER FOR A DROOPY LID

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

If you have a true monolid, revisit our Asian Eye Makeup Tutorial on Jamie Chung here. But for those of you who have a little lid space and your crease has started to droop as you’ve gotten older, causing a “fold” where your cat eye would be, this tutorial is for you! You probably think you can’t pull off a cat eye because of that fold, but you can and here’s how:

TOOLS:

  • Thin Gel Liner — I used Hourglass Mechanical Gel Liner on Emily above because it’s an ultra-thin point that I don’t have to sharpen and really gets in between the lashes in a way that liquid liner can’t.
  • Angled Liner Brush — The Space NK Angled Liner Brush has been in my kit since it came onto the scene because it too is ultra thin and the perfect amount of stiffness.
  • Liquid Liner — Alexa Chung created this Eyeko Eye-do Liquid Liner and it’s incredibly user friendly for those of you who aren’t comfortable drawing cat eyes. Yet!

STEPS:

  1. Trace your lashline with the gel liner pencil  by starting at your inner corner and finishing at the outer corner.
  2. Now look directly into the mirror if you’re working with a medicine cabinet mirror or if you’re holding a compact mirror, hold it slightly below at chest level and look down into it. Determine the angle from the outer corner to the end of the brow then use the brush to “pull” the liner out and up to where the “fold” is and stop.
  3. With your opposite hand, place your finger in between the outer corner and your temple and gently pull it  out and up so the “fold” smooths out. Yes I know we shouldn’t pull at our eye area so please don’t feel the need to comment on that below! It’s necessary for this type of lid and it’s only a gentle pull for a few seconds.
  4. While still gently holding the skin slightly up and out with one hand, continue the flick past the “fold” so it’s about the length of a typical lash.
  5. Go back over the gel liner with liquid liner.