Posts Tagged ‘cheekbone’

DRAPING

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

Draping is the new way to blush! Most of us associate draping with fabrics and fashion. But leave it to Marc Jacobs to apply it to makeup and faces! I’ve never thought of it like that before, but blush can be veiled over the face in different techniques to create different looks. How cheeky! Marc’s friend Way Bandy (the first ever celebrity makeup artist) made the concept of a “color glow” popular, and this inspired Marc to create his new 24-hour Air Blush Soft Glow Duo! Its air powder pigments seamlessly become one with the complexion, and the two shades merge fluidly in the palette for endless color combinations. Way said “color is a vital element in brightening and contouring… whereas light seems to project bones and dark seems to recede them, colors in the red range do something else. Not only does color give accent to the area where it is placed but it also seems to round out, give curve and softness to the skin and bones where it is applied.” I would totally agree because as much as I love it when I contour and highlight myself and my clients, the face doesn’t really come to life until I add blush.

We’re super excited because we’ve teamed up with Marc Jacobs Beauty to bring you four looks using the new Air Blush Soft Glow Duos through an exclusive Pinterest board dedicated to draping and this one-of-a-kind blush! Because face draping is a new concept, we’ll walk through it together over the next few weeks with inspiration, face charts and tutorials. So be sure to follow the board and check back daily so you can master it too! And remember, for all of the four different looks, you can use any of the five dance-floor-inspired shades because they’re foolproof and infused with air to drape your cheeks in color. Also note that I didn’t use any bronzing powder or highlighting powder in the looks. I only used the blushes to contour, highlight, flush, volumize, sculpt and/or lift.

Let’s start with the Balancing Glow! Use this technique when you want to balance out a bold look (like a smoky eye or wine-stained lip) or in this case, balance and soften your features with a veil of radiance. I chose the Lush & Libido shade because it’s very sweet and feminine but you can use whichever one you gravitate towards that complements your skin tone.

tbd balancing glow

Such a soft way to drape your face in color! For the nights you want to really define your cheekbones, switch to the Sculpting Glow! This technique hollows out the cheeks with the deeper shade then adds a halo effect to draw light and attention to them with the lighter shade. I used the Flesh & Fantasy Palette because it’s the perfect amount of warmth and glow.

tbd sculpting glow

This partnership was kindly brought to you by Marc Jacobs Beauty.

I can’t wait to show you the Volumizing Glow and Lifting Glow tutorials too! Keep your eyes out for them and more on our exclusive Pinterest board here.

STROBING 101

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

You might have noticed that the beauty world has become obsessed with Strobing! It’s hot right now, even though it’s actually been around for ages. Basically strobing is just highlighting areas that you want the light to hit and reflect off of, bringing those features forward and stealing all of the attention. Typically we pair highlighting with contouring (revisit my Highlight & Contour Tutorial for more) but it’s quite beautiful on its own. Especially in the Summer months when we let our skin glow and come alive. So let’s take a moment to walk through how I like to do it!

TOOLS:

STEPS:

TBDStrobing101STEPS

Using your finger with a cream/fluid or directly from the stick, swipe it:

  1. just along the top of your cheekbones,
  2. above your browbones (the brow frames the eye, so it’s a great place to draw attention to),
  3. down the center of the nose in a straight line (this just reinforces that your nose isn’t flat and protrudes away from your face like your cheekbones and browbones do),
  4. just above your cupid’s bow (this adds dimension to make your upper lip look like it is slightly fuller and protrudes more),
  5. just below your bottom lip (your bringing the area that is receding in between your bottom lip and your chin forward).

TBDStrobing101STEPS2

Then blend and buff it in with the brush or the sponge! And tag us on Instagram or comment below with your favorite strobing products!

APPLES VS. CHEEKBONES

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

We were just curious… do you apply your blush to the apples of your cheeks or your cheekbones? It’s a preference thing obviously, but it creates a different outcome, even if it’s subtle. I have clients that only want blush on the apples of their cheeks and others that want only want it high on their cheekbones. Here’s the difference: if you have strong cheekbones with a deep hollow in the cheeks, applying blush only to the apples softens the face and makes it less angular, while applying it only to the cheekbones reinforces the angles. If you have a rounder face, applying blush only along the cheekbones helps contour it and make it appear less round, while applying it only to the apples will reinforce the roundness. Make sense? Most of us don’t have super angular faces, so the cheekbone route is a good one to take. Otherwise, it can be a mood thing… how you feel each day and how you want to play with your face shape! Either way, just stay high on either, meaning apply the blush on the upper half of the apples or the upper part of the cheekbones for the most flattering looks.

TBD SPLURGES & SAVES:

  • Favorite Cream Blushes: We die over this one and we die over the price of this one!
  • Favorite Cream Blush Brushes: This one is a staple in my kit and this one fits my budget.
  • Favorite Powder Blushes: This one has the prettiest texture and color payoff and this one gives you instant cheekbones at an amazing price.
  • Favorite Powder Blush Brushes: I’ve only used this one to apply powder brush for at least five years now. This one is by far the best quality of the inexpensive ones out there.

APPLES:

Smile in the mirror so your apples pop out. Hold the smile while you swirl the blush along the top half of it. Make sure not to go too close to your nose and stay directly on the apple.

CHEEKBONES:

Suck in your cheeks so your cheekbones pop out. Sweep the blush along the top side of it. Make sure not to go too close to your eyes and stay directly on the cheekbone.

TIPS FOR BOTH:

  • When you load up your brush in the blush, don’t ever go directly from the product to the face. If it’s a powder blush, first tap off the excess against the compact or against your countertop. If it’s a cream blush, first swirl it on the back of your hand to smooth it out and eliminate the excess.
  • Choose a cream blush if you like to blush before your powder, or if you don’t powder at all. It creates a natural dewy glow.
  • Choose a powder blush if you use mineral powder foundation or if you like to powder before you apply blush.
  • If you want it to last for hours, use both! Apply cream blush first, then apply powder blush on top to set it.

BLUSH + CONTOUR CHEAT SHEET

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

There are two great reasons why you should take a second and try this technique to find your cheekbones! First, it shows you where the bone is so you know where to sweep the contour (directly underneath to “support” the bone and create a hollow) and where to swirl the blush (directly on top). And second, it shows you the angle of your cheekbone so you know the direction to apply it. Good stuff! Here’s how:

TOOLS:

STEPS:

  1.  Grab the pencil and place it along your cheek. Roll it up and down with your fingers flattened until you feel where the cheekbone is. Turn the pencil until it is exactly the same angle as the bone then roll it just below the bone so it’s touching it but just under it. That’s the “hollow” of your cheek and where your contour should go. The blush goes directly along the cheekbone (either only on your apple or along the cheekbone itself; I’ll post a comparison study of the two next week!). Take a mental photograph of the pencil’s placement and angle. Suck in your cheeks if that helps you see it as well. Press your thumb along the bone to really feel it too. My cheekbones (and most of my clients’) came in at 26. Until then, these techniques will help you find them.
  2. Follow the hollow by sweeping the contour cream or powder just underneath the cheekbone along the angle that you discovered with the pencil. as demonstrated by Chloe above. I always swirl the brush on the back of my hand after dipping it in the product to thin and even it out before I ever let it go near my face because nothing’s worse than a muddy contour!
  3. Switch to the blush brush and dip it in the blush. If it’s a cream blush, swirl it on the back of your hand, if it’s a powder blush, give it a couple taps against the counter to get rid of any excess. Swirl and stamp the brush along the cheekbone, just above the contour.