Posts Tagged ‘cheek’

BLUSH + CONTOUR CHEAT SHEET

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

There are two great reasons why you should take a second and try this technique to find your cheekbones! First, it shows you where the bone is so you know where to sweep the contour (directly underneath to “support” the bone and create a hollow) and where to swirl the blush (directly on top). And second, it shows you the angle of your cheekbone so you know the direction to apply it. Good stuff! Here’s how:

TOOLS:

STEPS:

  1.  Grab the pencil and place it along your cheek. Roll it up and down with your fingers flattened until you feel where the cheekbone is. Turn the pencil until it is exactly the same angle as the bone then roll it just below the bone so it’s touching it but just under it. That’s the “hollow” of your cheek and where your contour should go. The blush goes directly along the cheekbone (either only on your apple or along the cheekbone itself; I’ll post a comparison study of the two next week!). Take a mental photograph of the pencil’s placement and angle. Suck in your cheeks if that helps you see it as well. Press your thumb along the bone to really feel it too. My cheekbones (and most of my clients’) came in at 26. Until then, these techniques will help you find them.
  2. Follow the hollow by sweeping the contour cream or powder just underneath the cheekbone along the angle that you discovered with the pencil. as demonstrated by Chloe above. I always swirl the brush on the back of my hand after dipping it in the product to thin and even it out before I ever let it go near my face because nothing’s worse than a muddy contour!
  3. Switch to the blush brush and dip it in the blush. If it’s a cream blush, swirl it on the back of your hand, if it’s a powder blush, give it a couple taps against the counter to get rid of any excess. Swirl and stamp the brush along the cheekbone, just above the contour.

A ROSY FLUSH

TBDCheekTrioFB

Yes of course you can use only one blush shade. But there’s something beautiful that happens when you combine a warm shade across the whole cheekbone, a cool shade to pop the apple and a shimmer shade to highlight everything! Sometimes a cool tone by itself can come off a little clowny and needs the support of a warm shade. Sometimes a warm shade doesn’t pop enough without a splash of a cool tone. And both cool and warm shades come to life with a little shimmer to draw the attention to the cheekbones. Here’s how to create a flush inspired by roses:

TBDCheekTrioTools

TOOLS:

  1. A Warming Shade — I used Tarte Chic to Cheek Amazonian Clay Blush in Classic (check out the value in this holiday set!) but you can use any warm-toned powder blush. Think peach, warm nudes or apricots. I used the Charlotte Tilbury Powder & Sculpt Brush because of its perfect shape to apply then blend back and forth on its side.
  2. A Pop Shade — I used Dior Rosy Glow Awakening Blush in Petal but again, you can use any cool-toned powder blush. Think pink, fuchsia… anything blue based. I love to use this MAKE UP FOR EVER Blending Blush Brush for swirling on the apples of the cheeks.
  3. A Highlighting Shade — I used Maybelline Mineral Powder Illuminator but you can use your favorite highlighting shimmer powder. I used the Armani Round Eye Contour Brush because it’s really fluffy like a blush or powder brush but gives way more precision.

TBDCheekTrioSTEPS

STEPS:

  1. Sweep the warming shade across the entire cheekbone, including under where #2 is applied above.
  2. Swirl the cool shade in a circle on the top half of the apple that is circled on Magali above. (To find the apple, smile in the mirror and it will pop out like a little ball.)
  3. Finish by tracing the highlighting shade on the top half of the cheekbone, just under the eye area.

HIGHLIGHT AND CONTOUR TRICK

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

I know a lot of our readers are still intimidated by contouring and highlighting and if you’re one of them, this tutorial is for you! There are many different ways to highlight and contour different features, depending on which ones you want to pull forward (highlight) or push back (contour). In case you missed it, check out my C & E Tutorial from last year for another really easy version. But if you’re still thinking to yourself “I’ll never take the time to do that,” then try this!

TOOLS:

STEPS:

  1. Before you apply foundation (but after primer if you’re a primer girl), start by drawing two upside-down triangles underneath the eyes with the concealer stick as demonstrated above.
  2. Draw a third upside-down triangle on the lower half of your forehead also with the concealer stick..
  3. Draw a sideways right-angled triangle just under each cheekbone with the lowlight sculptor and a precision brush. Think of it as a “support” that holds up the bone. Really it’s creating a shadow to make the cheekbone look more pronounced.
  4. Draw a sixth triangle with the concealer stick on the chin just below the lower lip. You can do steps 1-4 in any order.
  5. Blend blend blend by swirling the kabuki brush along the edges of each triangle.
  6. Once every thing is blended, pump a few drops of foundation in the palm of your hand and dip the egg sponge in a few times to load it up. Now stipple (press) the sponge lightly over everything, concentrating again more on the edges of each highlight and contour than actually going over them. And of course fill in the areas that are bare.
  7. Finish by smiling in the mirror and applying the blush on the top half of the apples and along the area in between the highlight and the contour (if you look at the cheekbone, the highlight is just above it, the contour just below it and the blush goes directly on it).

 

PENNY PINCHER

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

Whenever we can help you save money by not having to buy yet another tool, we can’t wait to share! Contouring is all about the brush and the placement. You can try to only put product on the bottom half of the brush but it’s not going to deposit the product targeted in only hollow. No problem! Try this instead:  (more…)