Posts Tagged ‘brush’

QUICK TIP: CONTOURING

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

Over the last few years, contouring has become mainstream after decades of being a secret weapon that makeup artists learned in school to add dimensions back to the face after creating a blank canvas with foundation. I’m not gonna lie, it has gotten a little extreme for my taste but if you’re reading this here, your taste is a little more natural like mine. Anyway, today we’re sharing a contouring must that a lot of people don’t know about! When you sculpt your cheeks, it’s prettiest if you don’t bring the contour shading too far in. Why not? Because it ages you in a very unflattering way. We want to hollow out our cheeks but we need the suppleness of the apples to look healthy and young! And the easiest way to achieve this is to imagine a line from the end of your brow straight down your cheek then simply don’t cross it. Some makeup artists place the line at the arch of the brow, but my mentor and idol Mary Greenwell taught me one afternoon in Madrid never  to bring it in that far, and I agree. And you don’t have to hold the brush up every time! Quickly you’ll be able to eye it. Here’s how:

TOOLS:

  • Your Favorite Contour Cream — I was so excited when this cream palette came out and it’s $40 off right now!
  • or Your Favorite Contour Powder — This iconic contour & highlighting palette has everything you’ll ever need in shades that work gorgeously on most skin tones; while this duo works well with your budget!
  • A Flat-Headed Contour Brush — I love this dual-ended slenderizer brush that really presses the product into the skin.
  • A Densely-Packed Blush Brush — the wavy soft fibers of this brush makes it like nothing you’ve ever used before. The best!

STEPS:

  1. Hold a brush or a pen/pencil perpendicularly straight down from the end of your brow as demonstrated with Lacy above. Make a mental note where it crosses your cheek area. If you need more than a mental image, you can use your non-dominant hand to hold the brush in place while you use your dominant hand to contour, but it doesn’t have to be exact or anything, so just eye it and you’re good.
  2. Now that you know how far to bring it, follow the hollow of your cheek (just under the cheekbone) inward and stop where the imaginary line is.
  3. Go back in the other direction and bring it all the way to the ear area so there isn’t a blank space there.
  4. Switch to the unused brush and blend it in by gently swirling over it until it’s half the intensity it was originally.

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MAKEUP BRUSH UP

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

I’ve spent 12 years building the perfect makeup kit to use on my celebrity clients. It’s super streamlined into two small, eclectic hat boxes on rollers (seen here!), and to make it into my kit, each item has to be the best of the best. So I spend my time curating what’s out there and when something comes along that performs better than what I’m currently using, I swap it out. Here are the current winners that I went so crazy over, I couldn’t replace the previous ones fast enough!

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FACE:

  • Liquid Foundation Brush — this splurge is my most favorite liquid foundation brush I’ve ever found. The bristles are dense but incredibly soft and movable instead of stiff and hard like a lot of foundation brushes. This save rocks too.
  • Powder Foundation Brush — when I got my hands on this splurge last week, I couldn’t stop playing with it! Its flat head is mega wide, covering a lot of area as it blends. This save covers a lot of surface area too.
  • Cream Foundation Brush — this divine one was especially formulated to softly buff cream foundation into the skin instead of sitting on top of it.
  • Concealer Brush — if you’re an avid TBD reader, you know I’ve been obsessed with this 3DHD concealer brush for awhile now because its steeple-like head can sneak into the contours of your eyes (for dark circles) and around your nose (for redness) like no other brush out there.
  • Powder Brush — This sculpting brush is actually a contour and highlight brush for this Bronze & Go Palette but I’ve been using it for months as a powder brush on my girls because I like to target powder just the T-zone and a big powder brush can’t get into the crevices as well.

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CONTOUR & HIGHLIGHT:

  • Cream Contour & Highlight Brush — contouring and highlighting has really taken hold over the last year thanks to YouTube and social media that all of the brands have taken notice and come out with amazing products and matching brushes to get the job done. Believe me, I’ve tried them all. And this dual-ended one is my favorite because the contour side is super long and narrow to really follow the hollow of your cheek while the highlight side is angled to glide over areas that you want to catch the light. And considering you get two brushes in one, it’s a fair price to me.
  • Powder Contour Brush — I love this angled contour brush because I’ve found the fluffier the brush, the less muddy the contour looks (nothing is worse!).
  • Powder Highlight Brush — This ultra-wide fan brush deposits just the right amount of highlighting powder to bring your face to life. Always use a fan brush for highlighting! It’s a game changer.

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BLUSH:

  • Powder Blush Brush — Okay, this one is the creme-de-la-creme of all the blush brushes out there. You use it once and you’ll feel why. It’s one of those things that hard to explain, but next time you’re at the department store, walk up to the counter and try it for yourself. It’s heaven on a stick! It’s a splurge though so if you don’t want to make that kind of an investment yet, try this stylish save.
  • Cream Blush Brush — I like a densely-packed angled contour brush for cream blushes (with shorter bristles and way less fluffy than the one I use for powder contouring).

Keep you brushes clean with my DIY Natural Brush Cleaning tutorial and whenever you get your hands on a new amazing brush, please let us know in the comments below! And if you liked this post, I can go back into my kit and pull out my new favorite eye and brow brushes and share them with you too!

TRUE COLORS

 

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

We use an shadow primer to make our eyeshadow show up more, we prime our faces under foundation, so why don’t we prime our lips when we want our lipstick to really pop? Some of us have barely any pigmentation in our lips, making every lipstick look almost the same as it does in the tube. But many of us have a lot of pigmentation in our lips, making the lipstick look completely different on then it looks on the back of our hands or in the tube. That’s where a primer comes in! Before primers, we used to just go over our lip area with foundation. But foundation isn’t formulated for the lips and these primers are. Here’s how:

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TBD FAVES:

  • Cargo HD Picture Perfect Lip Primer — This one really extends the life of your lipstick while conditioning the lips.
  • Obsessive Compulsive Cosmetics Lip Tar Primer — This one is super conditioning and 100% vegan but doesn’t combat pigmentation. I just wanted to include it for the girls who don’t have to worry about pigmentation but want to prep their lips with the most moisturizing primer out there.
  • Stila Lush Lips Water Plumping Primer — I love this one because not only does it neutralize pigmentation, it leaves a conditioning shield that locks in moisture.
  • NYX Lip Primer — This one is awesome because it ensures the lipstick won’t “bleed” or travel outside the lip line.
  • E.L.F. Studio Lip Primer & Plumper — I love this one because one side has cinnamon to plump while the other side locks in the color so it won’t smudge and lasts longer. And the price is amazing!

STEPS:

  1. Apply the primer all over the lip area like you would apply a lipstick or lip gloss.
  2. Follow with your favorite bright lipstick and notice the difference!! It will be much truer to the color in the tube.

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For those of you asking about the lipstick color that I used on Charlene above, it’s this one in Coachella Coral!

FOUNDATION SECRET

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

It’s easy to want to paint foundation on with a flat foundation brush like we would a canvas on an easel. But when we do that, the foundation just sits on top of the skin instead of becoming one with it. Then it comes off on our phones (the worst!) or friends’ shirts when we hug them when it doesn’t have to be that way. If you switch tools and techniques, you’ll be much happier with the results. Change #1: switch from a typical foundation brush to a fluffy foundation brush. Change #2: instead of painting it on with a heavy hand, swirl it on with a light touch, building in layers. You want the pressure to be super light, as if you were an archaeologist dusting off an artifact. This ensures that you applying the thinnest layer possible as you go. Then if the area needs more coverage, you go back over it a few times until it’s covered. You’ll be surprised how many areas that you won’t have to go back over! And you won’t look like you’re wearing a mask. Here’s how:

FAVORITE FLUFFY BRUSHES:

FAVORITE FOUNDATIONS:

  • I splurged a little with this foundation that has the perfect balance of coverage and lasting power, and has the best range of shades of any foundations out there.
  • I also really love this oil-free  long-wear one for its budget-friendly price and gorgeous finish.

STEPS:

  1. Pump a few drops of foundation onto the palm of your hand or a glass palette.
  2. Dip the fluffy brush into the product and pull it across to thin it out as I demonstrated above.
  3. Start lightly swirly across your cheek. Don’t stroke hard! Lightly build!
  4. Continue along your forehead.
  5. Don’t forget your chin and neck!
  6. Go back over any areas that need more coverage.

Then spot conceal any problem areas with concealer and finish with a dusting of powder.