Posts Tagged ‘blog’

QUICK TIP: CONTOURING

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

Over the last few years, contouring has become mainstream after decades of being a secret weapon that makeup artists learned in school to add dimensions back to the face after creating a blank canvas with foundation. I’m not gonna lie, it has gotten a little extreme for my taste but if you’re reading this here, your taste is a little more natural like mine. Anyway, today we’re sharing a contouring must that a lot of people don’t know about! When you sculpt your cheeks, it’s prettiest if you don’t bring the contour shading too far in. Why not? Because it ages you in a very unflattering way. We want to hollow out our cheeks but we need the suppleness of the apples to look healthy and young! And the easiest way to achieve this is to imagine a line from the end of your brow straight down your cheek then simply don’t cross it. Some makeup artists place the line at the arch of the brow, but my mentor and idol Mary Greenwell taught me one afternoon in Madrid never  to bring it in that far, and I agree. And you don’t have to hold the brush up every time! Quickly you’ll be able to eye it. Here’s how:

TOOLS:

  • Your Favorite Contour Cream — I was so excited when this cream palette came out and it’s $40 off right now!
  • or Your Favorite Contour Powder — This iconic contour & highlighting palette has everything you’ll ever need in shades that work gorgeously on most skin tones; while this duo works well with your budget!
  • A Flat-Headed Contour Brush — I love this dual-ended slenderizer brush that really presses the product into the skin.
  • A Densely-Packed Blush Brush — the wavy soft fibers of this brush makes it like nothing you’ve ever used before. The best!

STEPS:

  1. Hold a brush or a pen/pencil perpendicularly straight down from the end of your brow as demonstrated with Lacy above. Make a mental note where it crosses your cheek area. If you need more than a mental image, you can use your non-dominant hand to hold the brush in place while you use your dominant hand to contour, but it doesn’t have to be exact or anything, so just eye it and you’re good.
  2. Now that you know how far to bring it, follow the hollow of your cheek (just under the cheekbone) inward and stop where the imaginary line is.
  3. Go back in the other direction and bring it all the way to the ear area so there isn’t a blank space there.
  4. Switch to the unused brush and blend it in by gently swirling over it until it’s half the intensity it was originally.

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HOW TO WEAR BRIGHT LIPSTICK ON THINNER LIPS

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

A lot of us who aren’t endowed with big plump lips are intimidated by bright lipstick, fearing it will only make our lips look smaller. But there is a little subtle trick we can do to make them look a little plumper. Because any time we highlight something, we make it appear “raised” out. So never rock a red lip without doing this ever again! Here’s how:

TOOLS:

  • Your Favorite Concealer — After all the years in this industry trying everything on everyone, I have narrowed it down three favorite concealer sticks in three different price ranges: this one ($$$), this one ($$) and this one ($).
  • Your Favorite Bright Lipstick — I used this matte lip pencil above and for the fuller lip shot I used this high pigment lip pencil. As you can see, the NARS one is more matte than the Bite Beauty one and I personally like the little hint of shine.
  • An EyeShadow Buffing Brush — Of course the brush I used in this tutorial has just been discontinued (how uncouth!) but try this shading brush instead.

STEPS:

  1. Dab the buffing brush across the top of the concealer stick to load it up.
  2. Start at an outer corner and sweep the brush along the perimeter of the lip area towards the cupid’s bow.
  3. Continue sweeping the brush from the cupid’s bow to the other corner.
  4. Repeat on the bottom lip perimeter.
  5. Now buff it in along the top lip perimeter.
  6. And continue buffing it in along the bottom lip perimeter.
  7. Finish by filling in the lip area with the bright lip color like you usually would!

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BRITTANY SNOW PREMIERE LOOK

TUTORIAL BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

TUTORIAL BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

Oh hey big eyes! Our favorite pitch perfect mega babe Brittany Snow ventured out Tuesday night to support her new indie flick Dial A Prayer (opens tonight!), dazzling in a fitted LBD with lace peek-a-boo cutouts and a effortless top twist! It occurred to me that this winged-shadow sultry eye might be something you’d love to rock on your next night out , so here’s how I created her look. You might not have noticed, but the eye makeup was strategically placed in ways to make the eyes look bigger but piercing at the same time. And you can do that too! The key points are to wing the shadow out and up creating a bigger lid space than the actual lid space, then skip liner on the lashline and tightline & inner rim it instead. Here’s how:

TBDBrittanySnow Breakdown

EYES:

  • Smoky Taupe Winged Shadow: To make her eye space as big as possible, I took my absolute favorite smoky taupe eyeshadow palette of all time (could I be more dramatic today?!) and swirled a blending brush in the taupe shade from the upper left corner. Then I started creating the shape by sweeping it across the lid then onto the crease, blending back and forth and dabbing it back into the palette often to load it back up with shadow. Then I determined how far out I wanted to shadow wing to go and dragged the brush back and forth as I elongated the space. See how far I took it above. If you ever take it out too far, don’t worry! You can just shorten it back with my baby wipe trick. I also swept the shadow along the lower lashline too. Then I took the gold sparkly shade from the center and swept it over the lid to really make her blue eyes pop.
  • Tightlining on Top: To keep with the commitment to big eyes, I didn’t line the lashline like I typically might as to not  lose an a millimeter of  lid space. Instead I tightlinted from up and under the lashes, wiggling this favorite black longwear pencil just below and in between the lashes. It’s my favorite because it glides on so smoothly with a lot of color payoff but then is waterproof and won’t budge.
  • Inner Rimming: To make her eyes more piercing, and still not lose a millimeter of lid space, I rimmed her inner waterline with this intense pure color kajal liner. Ok, yes technically this can “close” up the eye a little bit but in return, it makes them look like they can see right through to your soul!
  • Spiky Lashes: Britt and I have a thing for spiky lashes (for lack of a better word). That doesn’t mean clumpy though! We just like them really really defined and separated, with each lash coated, but again, not clumped. So the mascara choice is critical; it has to be really wet and intense right out of the gate so we don’t have to load them up with too many layers. We’ve found this mascara always brings it and used it that night.
  • Subtle Inner Highlight: I simply pressed my ring finger into the highlight shade from the palette and stamped it across the inner corners of the each eye, so it half covered the top and half covered the bottom part at the same time.

TBDBrittanySnow Eye

FACE:

  • Skin Perfecting: Ok, this beauty didn’t have much skin correcting work for me to do, as in none, but the flashes on the red carpet can be brutal, so I evened everything out with this industry standard liquid foundation that most of my colleagues and I trust to bring the skin to life while covering any redness, dark spots or blemishes. Brittany is shade #5 if that helps you determine if you’re darker or lighter.
  • Mattifying: I powdered only her T-zone with this setting powder that I know won’t ever get cakey.

CHEEK:

  • Light Contour: I love a subtle sculpt so I merely swept this mistake-proof bronzing powder just under her cheekbones, along her temples, hairline and jawline.
  • Hint of Blush: Again, I wanted to just add a subtle glow to focus all of the attention on the eyes, so I swirled this magic blush on the top half of the apples and cheekbones.

LIP:

  • Pinky Nude Touch of Color: I finished the look with this matte liquid lipstick (shade #500) that isn’t drying (like so many other matte liquid lipsticks out there) and adds the perfect amount of natural color.

TBDBrittanySnow final

 

If you want to know how to get her tousled top twist, you’re going to have to ask her lovely hair stylist Aviva Perea!

MAKEUP BRUSH UP

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

I’ve spent 12 years building the perfect makeup kit to use on my celebrity clients. It’s super streamlined into two small, eclectic hat boxes on rollers (seen here!), and to make it into my kit, each item has to be the best of the best. So I spend my time curating what’s out there and when something comes along that performs better than what I’m currently using, I swap it out. Here are the current winners that I went so crazy over, I couldn’t replace the previous ones fast enough!

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FACE:

  • Liquid Foundation Brush — this splurge is my most favorite liquid foundation brush I’ve ever found. The bristles are dense but incredibly soft and movable instead of stiff and hard like a lot of foundation brushes. This save rocks too.
  • Powder Foundation Brush — when I got my hands on this splurge last week, I couldn’t stop playing with it! Its flat head is mega wide, covering a lot of area as it blends. This save covers a lot of surface area too.
  • Cream Foundation Brush — this divine one was especially formulated to softly buff cream foundation into the skin instead of sitting on top of it.
  • Concealer Brush — if you’re an avid TBD reader, you know I’ve been obsessed with this 3DHD concealer brush for awhile now because its steeple-like head can sneak into the contours of your eyes (for dark circles) and around your nose (for redness) like no other brush out there.
  • Powder Brush — This sculpting brush is actually a contour and highlight brush for this Bronze & Go Palette but I’ve been using it for months as a powder brush on my girls because I like to target powder just the T-zone and a big powder brush can’t get into the crevices as well.

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CONTOUR & HIGHLIGHT:

  • Cream Contour & Highlight Brush — contouring and highlighting has really taken hold over the last year thanks to YouTube and social media that all of the brands have taken notice and come out with amazing products and matching brushes to get the job done. Believe me, I’ve tried them all. And this dual-ended one is my favorite because the contour side is super long and narrow to really follow the hollow of your cheek while the highlight side is angled to glide over areas that you want to catch the light. And considering you get two brushes in one, it’s a fair price to me.
  • Powder Contour Brush — I love this angled contour brush because I’ve found the fluffier the brush, the less muddy the contour looks (nothing is worse!).
  • Powder Highlight Brush — This ultra-wide fan brush deposits just the right amount of highlighting powder to bring your face to life. Always use a fan brush for highlighting! It’s a game changer.

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BLUSH:

  • Powder Blush Brush — Okay, this one is the creme-de-la-creme of all the blush brushes out there. You use it once and you’ll feel why. It’s one of those things that hard to explain, but next time you’re at the department store, walk up to the counter and try it for yourself. It’s heaven on a stick! It’s a splurge though so if you don’t want to make that kind of an investment yet, try this stylish save.
  • Cream Blush Brush — I like a densely-packed angled contour brush for cream blushes (with shorter bristles and way less fluffy than the one I use for powder contouring).

Keep you brushes clean with my DIY Natural Brush Cleaning tutorial and whenever you get your hands on a new amazing brush, please let us know in the comments below! And if you liked this post, I can go back into my kit and pull out my new favorite eye and brow brushes and share them with you too!