FOUNDATION SECRET

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

It’s easy to want to paint foundation on with a flat foundation brush like we would a canvas on an easel. But when we do that, the foundation just sits on top of the skin instead of becoming one with it. Then it comes off on our phones (the worst!) or friends’ shirts when we hug them when it doesn’t have to be that way. If you switch tools and techniques, you’ll be much happier with the results. Change #1: switch from a typical foundation brush to a fluffy foundation brush. Change #2: instead of painting it on with a heavy hand, swirl it on with a light touch, building in layers. You want the pressure to be super light, as if you were an archaeologist dusting off an artifact. This ensures that you applying the thinnest layer possible as you go. Then if the area needs more coverage, you go back over it a few times until it’s covered. You’ll be surprised how many areas that you won’t have to go back over! And you won’t look like you’re wearing a mask. Here’s how:

FAVORITE FLUFFY BRUSHES:

FAVORITE FOUNDATIONS:

  • I splurged a little with this foundation that has the perfect balance of coverage and lasting power, and has the best range of shades of any foundations out there.
  • I also really love this oil-free  long-wear one for its budget-friendly price and gorgeous finish.

STEPS:

  1. Pump a few drops of foundation onto the palm of your hand or a glass palette.
  2. Dip the fluffy brush into the product and pull it across to thin it out as I demonstrated above.
  3. Start lightly swirly across your cheek. Don’t stroke hard! Lightly build!
  4. Continue along your forehead.
  5. Don’t forget your chin and neck!
  6. Go back over any areas that need more coverage.

Then spot conceal any problem areas with concealer and finish with a dusting of powder.

MANI MUST-HAVES FOR 2015

post/graphics: Kristin Ess

post/graphics: Kristin Ess

We’re headed into Spring and although we certainly get our nails done in the fall, our digits seem to get a lot more play in spring and summer. We thought it would be fun to create a must-have list that includes our favorite things (both new and classic) for mani lovers everywhere!

  1. CRYSTAL NAIL FILE: I am head over heels in love with the crystal nail files. I had never used one until last year and it changed everything for me. Emery boards are not on option anymore. Although it appears smooth it files my  nails just as well as any other file and the texture of this file creates a smoother edge, creating less cracks, chips and breaks. How did I not know about this sooner!?
  2. GENTLE NAIL FILE: This will be ideal for anyone with fragile nails because you want to preserve the strength of the nail and not rough it up too much. It’s smooth as well and a tiny bit less expensive. (But if you can spend a few more dollars go with number 1!)
  3. CUTICLE NIPPER + PUSHER: I have tried so many nippers and I find that many of them fail when it comes to making a clean cut. I love this one because it does just that which leaves me with zero hang nails.
  4. NON-ACETONE POLISH REMOVER WIPES: How amazing and wierd are these?! I was so skeptical the first time I used them. They’re for removing regular polish. They’re non-acetone and leave your nails/cuticles feeling super soft and nourished… somehow.
  5. NO-SPILL ACETONE DISPENSER: Sometimes I like my real acetone. I know it’s bad and try not to use it much, but when I do I HAVE to have one of these dispensers. You push the top down using a pad or papertowel and avoid the dreaded acetone spill.
  6. CUTICLE CREAM: Keep those cuticles moisturized! I tried this recently and I love it. It’s not oily so I can put it on before I leave home without worrying about getting oil everywhere. Lots of vitamins in this little guy.
  7. ANTI-FUNGAL CUTICLE OIL: Some people get fungus in the cuticle area of their nails or underneath. That causes breakage and brittleness. Avoid that by adding some drops of this as instructed.
  8. CUTICLE OIL PEN TO-GO! I have this in my purse always. (Okay, and one in my car)
  9. NAIL (AND HAIR) SUPPLEMENT These are some of my favorite hair pills, and they promote nail growth as well. So this is really a two-for-one sitch. Most hair pills promote nail growth because the same vitamins tend to boost both.
  10. NAIL KALE! This polish has VITAMINS in it!!! What else can I say. And they have some great nude shades for which are great for the upcoming months.
  11. NO-LIGHT GEL POLISH If you follow me on instagram you know I love this stuff. I have used it for months now and it really helps my nails grow because it’s harder than regular polish but you don’t need the UV light, which I find irritates my fingers. The topcoat is the key! Also, look at that gorgeous shade of marsala– Pantone’s color of the year, duh!
  12. POLISH WALL ORGANIZER: Get it together! Feature your faves and look like you’ve really got your ish together while you do!
  13. NAIL ART ROLL UP: I’ve laid off the nail art, personally, but I have some friends that are die hards. This is one of my favorite kits for nail art.
  14. NAIL POLISH TRAVEL CARRIER: If you’re a manicurist or you know one, this is a great gift for traveling with tons of polish.

Got any mani must-haves? Tell us!!!

APPLES VS. CHEEKBONES

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

We were just curious… do you apply your blush to the apples of your cheeks or your cheekbones? It’s a preference thing obviously, but it creates a different outcome, even if it’s subtle. I have clients that only want blush on the apples of their cheeks and others that want only want it high on their cheekbones. Here’s the difference: if you have strong cheekbones with a deep hollow in the cheeks, applying blush only to the apples softens the face and makes it less angular, while applying it only to the cheekbones reinforces the angles. If you have a rounder face, applying blush only along the cheekbones helps contour it and make it appear less round, while applying it only to the apples will reinforce the roundness. Make sense? Most of us don’t have super angular faces, so the cheekbone route is a good one to take. Otherwise, it can be a mood thing… how you feel each day and how you want to play with your face shape! Either way, just stay high on either, meaning apply the blush on the upper half of the apples or the upper part of the cheekbones for the most flattering looks.

TBD SPLURGES & SAVES:

  • Favorite Cream Blushes: We die over this one and we die over the price of this one!
  • Favorite Cream Blush Brushes: This one is a staple in my kit and this one fits my budget.
  • Favorite Powder Blushes: This one has the prettiest texture and color payoff and this one gives you instant cheekbones at an amazing price.
  • Favorite Powder Blush Brushes: I’ve only used this one to apply powder brush for at least five years now. This one is by far the best quality of the inexpensive ones out there.

APPLES:

Smile in the mirror so your apples pop out. Hold the smile while you swirl the blush along the top half of it. Make sure not to go too close to your nose and stay directly on the apple.

CHEEKBONES:

Suck in your cheeks so your cheekbones pop out. Sweep the blush along the top side of it. Make sure not to go too close to your eyes and stay directly on the cheekbone.

TIPS FOR BOTH:

  • When you load up your brush in the blush, don’t ever go directly from the product to the face. If it’s a powder blush, first tap off the excess against the compact or against your countertop. If it’s a cream blush, first swirl it on the back of your hand to smooth it out and eliminate the excess.
  • Choose a cream blush if you like to blush before your powder, or if you don’t powder at all. It creates a natural dewy glow.
  • Choose a powder blush if you use mineral powder foundation or if you like to powder before you apply blush.
  • If you want it to last for hours, use both! Apply cream blush first, then apply powder blush on top to set it.

BLONDE HAIR + ROOTS

photos/post: Kristin Ess

“You look so good with blonde hair and black roots, it’s like not even funny.” Favorite line from Romy + Michelle, but the compliment doesn’t quite translate to real life.

Why is it that overnight your hair goes from looking cool with a little bit of root to looking insane and borderline trashy?? Unfortunately, you can’t typically get a color appointment the next day. So I want to throw out some things you can do to conceal or use the root to your advantage!

BRAIDING. Braids look 10x more edgy on blonde hair with roots, in my opinion. Visit your local braid bar or salon and find a great braider! Get those tiny side braids (seen below) or that french fishtail you’ve always wanted to try if you’re sporting roots and have to go to an event! Don’t be afraid to ask for something a little edgy. Take some pinterest photos with you! If you don’t think you can pull off edgy, do something pretty. Pretty still looks amazing with a bit of root.

COLORED DRY SHAMPOO. If I go to a shoot or do a client headed to a red carpet, I always have some of THESE LITTLE SPRAYS by Bumble in my kit (I usually get the travel size because I only use them for root touch ups). They make them for blondes, brunettes and redheads, too! To conceal roots on blonde hair, I use the blonde and white sprays, layering one on top of the other if necessary depending on the lightness. I layer more white on top if the hair is platinum and a little less if it’s a vanilla or golden blonde shade.

BLOWDRYING. Add a touch of mousse or volumizing spray to the root and flip your head upside down while drying for a minute or two. Getting the hair up and off your scalp will help conceal the root just a little more. The flatter the hair lays on top, the more obvious the root becomes. HAIR FLIPS are KEY here!

GO NATURALLY CURLY. If  you have blonde hair and curls, you know that wearing it curly will help conceal the length of the root. Think SJP naturally curly hair. You could never tell if her roots were an inch or three inches. The solid line at the root gets diffused by the curly texture of the hair and actually looks amazing with some depth. If you’re a curly blonde girl, you’re lucky! The shrinkage will also create the illusion that the root is shorter than it is when it’s stretched out.

EVERYDAY WAVES. Get familiar with a simple curl technique like THIS ONE! Wearing your hair super straight will only enhance the look of the dark roots. Throw a little wave in and give it some texture.

MAKE AN APPOINTMENT BEFORE YOU LEAVE. Best way to avoid a last minute “please I’m begging you to squeeze me in because my roots are insane and I have to go to a thing” emergency is to pre-book when you’re leaving the salon. Talk to your hairstylist and see what he/she thinks about how often you should get touched up. I usually recommend 4-5 weeks for bleach and tone, 6-12 weeks for anyone lighter, depending on the contrast from their natural color to the new color. Make that next appointment before you walk out! Especially if blonde hair with black roots just creeps up on you!

the beauty dept hiding your roots