APPLES VS. CHEEKBONES

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

We were just curious… do you apply your blush to the apples of your cheeks or your cheekbones? It’s a preference thing obviously, but it creates a different outcome, even if it’s subtle. I have clients that only want blush on the apples of their cheeks and others that want only want it high on their cheekbones. Here’s the difference: if you have strong cheekbones with a deep hollow in the cheeks, applying blush only to the apples softens the face and makes it less angular, while applying it only to the cheekbones reinforces the angles. If you have a rounder face, applying blush only along the cheekbones helps contour it and make it appear less round, while applying it only to the apples will reinforce the roundness. Make sense? Most of us don’t have super angular faces, so the cheekbone route is a good one to take. Otherwise, it can be a mood thing… how you feel each day and how you want to play with your face shape! Either way, just stay high on either, meaning apply the blush on the upper half of the apples or the upper part of the cheekbones for the most flattering looks.

TBD SPLURGES & SAVES:

  • Favorite Cream Blushes: We die over this one and we die over the price of this one!
  • Favorite Cream Blush Brushes: This one is a staple in my kit and this one fits my budget.
  • Favorite Powder Blushes: This one has the prettiest texture and color payoff and this one gives you instant cheekbones at an amazing price.
  • Favorite Powder Blush Brushes: I’ve only used this one to apply powder brush for at least five years now. This one is by far the best quality of the inexpensive ones out there.

APPLES:

Smile in the mirror so your apples pop out. Hold the smile while you swirl the blush along the top half of it. Make sure not to go too close to your nose and stay directly on the apple.

CHEEKBONES:

Suck in your cheeks so your cheekbones pop out. Sweep the blush along the top side of it. Make sure not to go too close to your eyes and stay directly on the cheekbone.

TIPS FOR BOTH:

  • When you load up your brush in the blush, don’t ever go directly from the product to the face. If it’s a powder blush, first tap off the excess against the compact or against your countertop. If it’s a cream blush, first swirl it on the back of your hand to smooth it out and eliminate the excess.
  • Choose a cream blush if you like to blush before your powder, or if you don’t powder at all. It creates a natural dewy glow.
  • Choose a powder blush if you use mineral powder foundation or if you like to powder before you apply blush.
  • If you want it to last for hours, use both! Apply cream blush first, then apply powder blush on top to set it.

BLONDE HAIR + ROOTS

photos/post: Kristin Ess

“You look so good with blonde hair and black roots, it’s like not even funny.” Favorite line from Romy + Michelle, but the compliment doesn’t quite translate to real life.

Why is it that overnight your hair goes from looking cool with a little bit of root to looking insane and borderline trashy?? Unfortunately, you can’t typically get a color appointment the next day. So I want to throw out some things you can do to conceal or use the root to your advantage!

BRAIDING. Braids look 10x more edgy on blonde hair with roots, in my opinion. Visit your local braid bar or salon and find a great braider! Get those tiny side braids (seen below) or that french fishtail you’ve always wanted to try if you’re sporting roots and have to go to an event! Don’t be afraid to ask for something a little edgy. Take some pinterest photos with you! If you don’t think you can pull off edgy, do something pretty. Pretty still looks amazing with a bit of root.

COLORED DRY SHAMPOO. If I go to a shoot or do a client headed to a red carpet, I always have some of THESE LITTLE SPRAYS by Bumble in my kit (I usually get the travel size because I only use them for root touch ups). They make them for blondes, brunettes and redheads, too! To conceal roots on blonde hair, I use the blonde and white sprays, layering one on top of the other if necessary depending on the lightness. I layer more white on top if the hair is platinum and a little less if it’s a vanilla or golden blonde shade.

BLOWDRYING. Add a touch of mousse or volumizing spray to the root and flip your head upside down while drying for a minute or two. Getting the hair up and off your scalp will help conceal the root just a little more. The flatter the hair lays on top, the more obvious the root becomes. HAIR FLIPS are KEY here!

GO NATURALLY CURLY. If  you have blonde hair and curls, you know that wearing it curly will help conceal the length of the root. Think SJP naturally curly hair. You could never tell if her roots were an inch or three inches. The solid line at the root gets diffused by the curly texture of the hair and actually looks amazing with some depth. If you’re a curly blonde girl, you’re lucky! The shrinkage will also create the illusion that the root is shorter than it is when it’s stretched out.

EVERYDAY WAVES. Get familiar with a simple curl technique like THIS ONE! Wearing your hair super straight will only enhance the look of the dark roots. Throw a little wave in and give it some texture.

MAKE AN APPOINTMENT BEFORE YOU LEAVE. Best way to avoid a last minute “please I’m begging you to squeeze me in because my roots are insane and I have to go to a thing” emergency is to pre-book when you’re leaving the salon. Talk to your hairstylist and see what he/she thinks about how often you should get touched up. I usually recommend 4-5 weeks for bleach and tone, 6-12 weeks for anyone lighter, depending on the contrast from their natural color to the new color. Make that next appointment before you walk out! Especially if blonde hair with black roots just creeps up on you!

the beauty dept hiding your roots

THE NATURAL BROW

 

the beauty department brow plumper

Photos/Post: Amy Nadine, Graphic Design: Eunice Chun

Typically, we fill in our brows with shadow or we “draw” them on with a fine-point pencil. Today, we’re exploring another option available to us: a brow plumper! This technique accomplishes three things: first, it colors in the hairs darker, without touching the skin behind them. This makes them bolder and show up more while still looking natural, as if you had them dyed. Second, you’ll discover hairs you didn’t know were part of your brow, making them look bigger. Sometimes the wand finds little peach fuzz surrounding my brows, making it look like part of my brow and making it appear like I have bigger brows than I actually have! And third, it holds them in the shape that you brushed them. Here’s how:

TBD FAVORITE BROW PLUMPERS:

STEPS:

  1. Start at the base of your brow and brush the hairs upward. Use a light touch so you do not hit the skin behind them.
  2. Continue brushing upward as you move across the brow then when you reach the arch, switch directions and brush the tail hairs over (not down or up, but more towards your ear).

For those inquiring minds that love knowing everything that we use in our tutorials, Chloe’s eye shadow is this gorgeous gold-copper one with this glittery shimmer wash on top!

CURRENT FAVORITE

image

PHOTOS/POST: KRISTIN ESS

As a hairstylist I’m always looking for a favorite new product or tool. Sometimes the thing you end up loving the most was right under your nose the whole time. Undone texture is having a mega moment right now and for the most part we want our FLAT IRON WAVES and CURLING IRON WAVES to look less pattern-y and a bit more natural.

When I discovered my CURRENT FAVORITE PRODUCT for undone texture, it was a total accident. I’ve shared a trick before that involves this spray waaaaay back in 2011, remember? That’s exactly what I was doing– adding a little moisture back into the hair so I could keep curling until I got the texture I wanted. But when I sprayed that superfine mist over the waves and scrunched it in, what I got was a gorgeous diffusion of the waves I had made with the iron. It just took the overly “styled” look away. It’s hard to believe my favorite new trick is simply WATER, but it is. A lot of people are probably wondering if this can be done using a regular spray bottle, but I’ve found that it’s not the same. Regular spray bottles put out too much water at once causing the hair to become too wet which will then cause it to return to it’s natural texture or go flat. There’s definitely a big difference in the fine mist from THIS ONE and any other sprayer.

Above I’ve shown you the finished look. Below are some photos as THE SPRAY is being used. You want to avoid spraying it at the root and focus more from middle to ends. Just a little will do. Then scrunch it in. Avoid pulling on the hair or dragging your fingers through it when it’s wet because you will drag the waves out and flatten your hair.

Here’s the “before hair” with some very subtle waves using a 1 1/2″ barrel iron.

the beauty department bob styling lob styling

 

Spray a light veil of water, focusing middle to ends and all the way from front to back. Begin scrunching right away.

the beauty dept undone texture

 

Once you’ve scrunched all the water in, let it air dry. Scrunch a little more if you need to.

 

 

 

 

style bob lob beauty department

The waves and texture will come together as it air dries. This hair was prepped with MOUSSE when it was wet, before blowdrying. So you’re really using the hold from the mousse as well when you add the EVIAN SPRAY. If you try this, let us know! Would love to hear if you love it as much as we do!