POWDER DON’T!

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

This little powder rule has saved me so many times. Powder can be your best friend when you find the perfect balance of taking down shine but keeping your skin looking alive and healthy. But it does you no favors if you powder the perimeter of your face. Why? Because that’s where our faces tend to have the most facial hair. And nothing brings attention to facial hair more than powder! I learned that the hard way on one of my first cover shoots in 2005 that was shot outside in direct light. I felt so bad when it came out that I had to learn that lesson at my client’s expense. Luckily she never said anything about it and continued booking me but I never forgot it! Anyway, the perimeter of the face doesn’t tend to shine that much anyway, so it’s okay to skip it and concentrate all of the shine patrol on the T-zone where we need it.

TOOLS:

STEPS:

  1. Dip the brush into the loose powder or against the pressed powder. Tap it against the compact to release the excess then stipple (press) the powder brush repeatedly as you move across the forehead.
  2. Press it in between the eyes as you work your way down the bridge of the nose. Be careful powdering your upper lip if you have peach fuzz there. The best way to deal with that area is by pressing the puff/pad that comes with the powder instead of a powder brush, and pressing it in downward motions.
  3. Press it on each side of the nostrils and also hit the apples of the cheeks.
  4. Finish by pressing it on the chin.

Note: If you have cystic acne and it’s along the face perimeter, you will want to powder the foundation/concealer to set it. In this case, switch from a powder brush to a puff and press it carefully on. Buy a pack of disposable puffs so you can use a new one each day.

QUICK LIP TIP

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

We mostly line our lips to define the perimeter or cheat them to appear slightly exaggerated. But in doing so, we aren’t doing ourselves any favors as the night goes on and the lipstick comes off! Because a lot of the time, we’re left with only the lined lip! To avoid that but still define the perimeter, try this!

STEPS1

TOOLS:

 

STEPS2

STEPS:

  1. Line the perimeter as you typically would.
  2. Now start filling in the inside two-thirds of the way in. Note: I like to leave the inner third bare so it creates a little illusion of depth = fuller lips. But you can certainly fill in the entire lip!
  3. Then finish with a coat of lipstick using a lip brush for precision or straight from the tube for convenience.

This way, as time wears on and the lipstick wears off, you have less of a “line” left over!

Note: I exaggerated her lip perimeter slightly for photographic purposes.

 

BEST MAKEUP ADVICE

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

People always ask me what’s the best makeup advice I’ve ever gotten. Of course I could nerd out for hours with tip after tip (and often do!) but this piece of advice is definitely the most valuable. Why? Because no matter how expertly you’ve applied your makeup, if you don’t check it in differently lighting, you just might be walking around with a brush bristle on your cheek, a jawline that isn’t fully blended, or heaven forbid, something in your teeth or in your nose (I’ll never understand why I don’t catch those in the bathroom mirror???)! I feel like I’m a really good blender but many times I check in window lighting and it’s a little clowny. Still to this day I get shocked! Not to mention, one day at a stoplight, I discovered that I have a long rogue hair that grows out of the middle of my neck. I mean… it’s just wrong! Anyway, do yourself a favor and double check your makeup and skin in the natural light of a window then quickly again in the visor mirror. It only takes a few seconds and doesn’t cost a thing!

For inquiring minds: Emily is wearing my MSGM faux fur jacket that unfortunately is sold out everywhere but this is a more budget-friendly version! This is the sparkly black diamonds eyeliner that she’s wearing, this is the foundation brush (my all-time favorite but this is a great dupe) in step 1, this is the palette she’s holding in step 2 and this is the lipstick she’s wearing (in Pretty Please)!

 

QUICK FACE BRUSH TIP

Tutorial and Photography by Amy Nadine, Graphic Design by Eunice Chun

Tutorial and Photography by Amy Nadine, Graphic Design by Eunice Chun

This quick tip is super simple and might even seem irreverent but I promise you when you tweak the way you hold the brush, your makeup will benefit. Let’s walk through it together!

POWDER BRUSH:

  • You want to choke down on the handle almost all the way to the bristles so you can really stipple (press) it down instead of sweeping it across.
  • Press and lift, press and lift repeatedly along the T-zone.
  • These are my favorite powder brushes at different price points: this one ($$) and this one ($).

BLUSH BRUSH:

  • Hold the brush at the very end of the handle as demonstrated by Emily above. This helps you apply less pressure (be less “heavy-handed”) when you apply blush.
  • Dust the blush softly as you swirl the brush on the top half of the apples or along the top of the cheekbones, depending on how you like to achieve a flush.
  • My favorite blush brushes are this one ($$) and this one ($).