FOUNDATION SECRET

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

It’s easy to want to paint foundation on with a flat foundation brush like we would a canvas on an easel. But when we do that, the foundation just sits on top of the skin instead of becoming one with it. Then it comes off on our phones (the worst!) or friends’ shirts when we hug them when it doesn’t have to be that way. If you switch tools and techniques, you’ll be much happier with the results. Change #1: switch from a typical foundation brush to a fluffy foundation brush. Change #2: instead of painting it on with a heavy hand, swirl it on with a light touch, building in layers. You want the pressure to be super light, as if you were an archaeologist dusting off an artifact. This ensures that you applying the thinnest layer possible as you go. Then if the area needs more coverage, you go back over it a few times until it’s covered. You’ll be surprised how many areas that you won’t have to go back over! And you won’t look like you’re wearing a mask. Here’s how:

FAVORITE FLUFFY BRUSHES:

FAVORITE FOUNDATIONS:

  • I splurged a little with this foundation that has the perfect balance of coverage and lasting power, and has the best range of shades of any foundations out there.
  • I also really love this oil-free  long-wear one for its budget-friendly price and gorgeous finish.

STEPS:

  1. Pump a few drops of foundation onto the palm of your hand or a glass palette.
  2. Dip the fluffy brush into the product and pull it across to thin it out as I demonstrated above.
  3. Start lightly swirly across your cheek. Don’t stroke hard! Lightly build!
  4. Continue along your forehead.
  5. Don’t forget your chin and neck!
  6. Go back over any areas that need more coverage.

Then spot conceal any problem areas with concealer and finish with a dusting of powder.

APPLES VS. CHEEKBONES

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

We were just curious… do you apply your blush to the apples of your cheeks or your cheekbones? It’s a preference thing obviously, but it creates a different outcome, even if it’s subtle. I have clients that only want blush on the apples of their cheeks and others that want only want it high on their cheekbones. Here’s the difference: if you have strong cheekbones with a deep hollow in the cheeks, applying blush only to the apples softens the face and makes it less angular, while applying it only to the cheekbones reinforces the angles. If you have a rounder face, applying blush only along the cheekbones helps contour it and make it appear less round, while applying it only to the apples will reinforce the roundness. Make sense? Most of us don’t have super angular faces, so the cheekbone route is a good one to take. Otherwise, it can be a mood thing… how you feel each day and how you want to play with your face shape! Either way, just stay high on either, meaning apply the blush on the upper half of the apples or the upper part of the cheekbones for the most flattering looks.

TBD SPLURGES & SAVES:

  • Favorite Cream Blushes: We die over this one and we die over the price of this one!
  • Favorite Cream Blush Brushes: This one is a staple in my kit and this one fits my budget.
  • Favorite Powder Blushes: This one has the prettiest texture and color payoff and this one gives you instant cheekbones at an amazing price.
  • Favorite Powder Blush Brushes: I’ve only used this one to apply powder brush for at least five years now. This one is by far the best quality of the inexpensive ones out there.

APPLES:

Smile in the mirror so your apples pop out. Hold the smile while you swirl the blush along the top half of it. Make sure not to go too close to your nose and stay directly on the apple.

CHEEKBONES:

Suck in your cheeks so your cheekbones pop out. Sweep the blush along the top side of it. Make sure not to go too close to your eyes and stay directly on the cheekbone.

TIPS FOR BOTH:

  • When you load up your brush in the blush, don’t ever go directly from the product to the face. If it’s a powder blush, first tap off the excess against the compact or against your countertop. If it’s a cream blush, first swirl it on the back of your hand to smooth it out and eliminate the excess.
  • Choose a cream blush if you like to blush before your powder, or if you don’t powder at all. It creates a natural dewy glow.
  • Choose a powder blush if you use mineral powder foundation or if you like to powder before you apply blush.
  • If you want it to last for hours, use both! Apply cream blush first, then apply powder blush on top to set it.

THE NATURAL BROW

 

the beauty department brow plumper

Photos/Post: Amy Nadine, Graphic Design: Eunice Chun

Typically, we fill in our brows with shadow or we “draw” them on with a fine-point pencil. Today, we’re exploring another option available to us: a brow plumper! This technique accomplishes three things: first, it colors in the hairs darker, without touching the skin behind them. This makes them bolder and show up more while still looking natural, as if you had them dyed. Second, you’ll discover hairs you didn’t know were part of your brow, making them look bigger. Sometimes the wand finds little peach fuzz surrounding my brows, making it look like part of my brow and making it appear like I have bigger brows than I actually have! And third, it holds them in the shape that you brushed them. Here’s how:

TBD FAVORITE BROW PLUMPERS:

STEPS:

  1. Start at the base of your brow and brush the hairs upward. Use a light touch so you do not hit the skin behind them.
  2. Continue brushing upward as you move across the brow then when you reach the arch, switch directions and brush the tail hairs over (not down or up, but more towards your ear).

For those inquiring minds that love knowing everything that we use in our tutorials, Chloe’s eye shadow is this gorgeous gold-copper one with this glittery shimmer wash on top!

BLUSH + CONTOUR CHEAT SHEET

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

There are two great reasons why you should take a second and try this technique to find your cheekbones! First, it shows you where the bone is so you know where to sweep the contour (directly underneath to “support” the bone and create a hollow) and where to swirl the blush (directly on top). And second, it shows you the angle of your cheekbone so you know the direction to apply it. Good stuff! Here’s how:

TOOLS:

STEPS:

  1.  Grab the pencil and place it along your cheek. Roll it up and down with your fingers flattened until you feel where the cheekbone is. Turn the pencil until it is exactly the same angle as the bone then roll it just below the bone so it’s touching it but just under it. That’s the “hollow” of your cheek and where your contour should go. The blush goes directly along the cheekbone (either only on your apple or along the cheekbone itself; I’ll post a comparison study of the two next week!). Take a mental photograph of the pencil’s placement and angle. Suck in your cheeks if that helps you see it as well. Press your thumb along the bone to really feel it too. My cheekbones (and most of my clients’) came in at 26. Until then, these techniques will help you find them.
  2. Follow the hollow by sweeping the contour cream or powder just underneath the cheekbone along the angle that you discovered with the pencil. as demonstrated by Chloe above. I always swirl the brush on the back of my hand after dipping it in the product to thin and even it out before I ever let it go near my face because nothing’s worse than a muddy contour!
  3. Switch to the blush brush and dip it in the blush. If it’s a cream blush, swirl it on the back of your hand, if it’s a powder blush, give it a couple taps against the counter to get rid of any excess. Swirl and stamp the brush along the cheekbone, just above the contour.