post: Kristin Ess graphic design: Eunice Chun
Last but clearly not least in our hair talk on face shapes we have the inverted triangle.(Hooray!!) Inverted is just a fancy way of saying “upside down” or “flipped”. Knowing that you can clearly see (thanks to Polish beauty Anja Rubik) that an inverted triangle face shape is wider at the forehead than it is at the jaw. Most of my clients with an inverted triangle face shape ask me to make their forehead appear less wide. That’s pretty easy to do, but you also want to avoid making the face look longer and more narrow when doing so. Here are some helpful hints from me to you:
- Half ups: I love half updos for girls with inverted triangle face shapes. A half updo can narrow the forehead + widen the look of your cheekbones + jawline. Gotta love a good illusion! I think the key with Anja’s look on the bottom left is that the hair is wavy and that she has a center part. I like that the “baby hairs” just above her temples are not pulled back into the braids– they’re down and it’s just enough to help diffuse the width of her forehead.
- Bangs: Almost every single girl I know with an inverted triangle face shape loooooves having bangs and will never give them up. Obviously if you want to embrace the forehead you’ve got and not have bangs– do it, girl! On the other hand, if you want the option to show a wider forehead sometimes and narrow the appearance of your forehead other times, you’ll need some sort of bang. Avoid a heavy straight-across bang only because it could potentially make your face even more triangular. I would recommend something similar to Alexa’s long bangs, Brigitte’s “curtain bangs” which are essentially short and long bangs combined, or this heavy side swoop bang. I would even say you could get away with a half-moon bang in this post as long as it’s got some soft roundness to it and it’s not just a blunt, straight across, heavy bang.
- Center parting: The key to center parting on an inverted triangle face shape is not letting it lengthen you. You don’t want your bangs or layers to be styled “down”, you want them to be styled “out” once they pass your eyes/eyebrows. You want that hair from the center part to then lead into some sort of layers near your cheekbones. I always tell my clients “style your bangs in the direction of your ears.”
- Wavy bob + bangs: This is one of my favorite haircuts for the inverted triangle face shape. Also one of the most flattering, softening, balancing cuts for this face shape. The reason is, you can typically get great texture and layers in a bob or long bob. The side bang leads into layers which do exactly what is mentioned above– widens the cheekbone/jawline and diffuses the width of the forehead. Everything just looks in perfect proportion. LOVE.
- Diagonal side part: This is a great trick. See how Anja’s hair is parted diagonally in the bottom right photo? If all that hair was pulled to one side it would likely make the forehead appear wider. Use a tailcomb or a pencil if you don’t have a tailcomb, and start slightly off center, working your way over to a deep side part. That way there’s hair on both sides but it still appears that you’re wearing a heavy side part.
- Super straight hair with minimal layers: That would be the one style I would suggest girls with inverted triangle face shapes should avoid. All that’s going to do is make your face appear longer and more narrow. You want layers, especially around the face.
- Updos + Chignons: You can do almost any updo, chignon or pony when you have an inverted triangle face shape. Also, leaving out a few soft pieces around the face will help balance out your triangle. I find that a center or off-center part is most flattering but not mandatory. I mean, clearly the updo in the top photo from the Louis Vuitton show is GORGE– a messy french twist with lots of texture and a thin headband! Obsessed.
Do you have an inverted triangle face shape? If so we would love you to share your thoughts, tips and your own tricks below! Thank you for being so patient in waiting for each of your face shapes! Hope this series has helped you guys understand more about how to wear your hair and what to talk to your hair stylist about. xo
post: Kristin Ess graphic design: Eunice Chun
On to the next one– the gorgeous diamond face shape! If you’re a diamond, your hairline is more narrow. Also, starting below the ear your jawline comes to a point at your chin. (If your jawline narrows but your hairline is wide, then stay tuned for the inverted triangle face shape which coming will be next!) Here are some tips + tricks for styling hair around a diamond face shape:
- Stay back: The diamond face shape can get very narrow when there’s a lot of hair surrounding the face. I love how Ashley pushes it all back in the top photo. Typically diamonds have a great jawline so let that it show, girl! If it’s hard for you to get your hair to stay back, try applying a light holding mousse at the root before you blowdry and then tuck behind the ear.
- The One + Only: I love when diamond face shaped girls push one side back. Like I said before– a too much hair can crowd and make a diamond face appear too narrow so it’s good to open one side up and show off that great jawline. Any kind of texture works well here– smooth waves, messy textured waves, pin straight, or crazy curls. It says “Look at my pretty hair” but it doesn’t hide your pretty face.
- Deep side part: I loooove the way a deep side part looks on a diamond face shape but it can often be a challenge because of how the hairline narrows. If you find it challenging, use some mousse at the root before you blow-dry. This will help the hair stay in place instead of falling forward as it naturally wants to. Also, try parting on the diagonal– using a tail comb, start deep to one side and come come back to the center as you go back. That will help balance out the weight and not make the heavy side too heavy.
- Bangs: I like to avoid heavy, straigh bangs on my clients with diamond face shapes. The reason is- the hairs in front of a narrow hairline usually grow upward or out to the sides so it can be a bit of a challenge to control straight heavy bangs. I do, however, love “curtain” Bardot bangs for this face shape. A center or slightly off-center parted curtain-y bang will help maintain the silhouette of the diamond face shape and is typically much easier to control because you’re not trying to fight their natural direction so much.
- Haircuts: Layers, layers, layers. No one is a better candidate for lots of layers than a girl with a diamond face shape. Lots of layers keep a diamond face shape “open”. Less layers will fall in front of the widest points of a diamond face shape and narrow you out. See how Ashley looks more narrow in the bottom right hand photo? Still gorgeous but her face definitely appears more narrow than the other images. Luckily it looks great sleek and straight because she’s got layers. The hair still moves and doesn’t just hang. It’s important to have layers in order to wear super straight hair on a diamond face.
- Ponytails + Updos: What can I say? Honestly, updos + ponytails are always great on diamond face shapes. High, low, center, whatever! Pulling the hair back off of a diamond face shape is a good thing. I can’t say there is a specific guidline for diamonds to follow here. You lucky girls!
Are you a sparkling diamond? If so, please feel free to share your experiences with your face shape below. Tell us your best tips and tricks! xo
post: Kristin Ess graphic design: Eunice Chun
Did you know a true heart-shaped face has a widow’s peak? True story. The cheek area is slightly wider than the hairline and then drops into a pointed chin. There are no wide-set/squared off corners along the jawline. I think Kourtney Kardashian is a pretty great example of a heart-shaped face (and some super-cute hair dos!) If you have a normal or wide forehead with no widow’s peak which narrows down and goes into a pointed chin, it’s likely that you’re actually an “Inverted Triangle”, which is coming up in the next Hair Talk. Okay, here are the best tips and tricks for you heart shaped beauties…
- PARTING WITH A WIDOW’S PEAK: You never really want to force a middle part when working with a widow’s peak. If it goes there, naturally then great. Otherwise, try going slighly (even just the tiniest bit) to one side or the other. When you split the hair right down the center with a widow’s peak, it tends to look thinner on each side. Better to thicken it up by going slightly off center. Look at Kourtney in the bottom center photo– it’s allllllmost center but she just pushes the widow’s peak piece over to one side. When you try to go straight down the center, one side typically behaves and the other refuses. Make mornings easier on yourself!
- DEEP SIDE PART WITH CURLS: I love this looks on a heart shaped face for two reasons. One, it does away with any parting issues caused by a widow’s peak. Two, it opens up the face and features the gorgeous jawline of a heart shaped face. Tuck the less heavy side and let the heavy side fall in front of your shoulders if your hair is long enough.
- HAIRCUTS: I would say the sky’s the limit for haircuts on a heart-shaped face. Almost anything looks great except heavy bangs or an jaw-length short bob. Short bangs can be really hard to control if you have a widow’s peak and if you have cowlicks on top of that, you definitely want to skip shorter bangs.
- BRAID AWAY: There’s not much more to this one than the fact that I think this is a super-cute look heart-shaped face girls. It’s a sweet, soft, feminine look that opens up your face.
- LOTSA LOOSE LAYERS: A piece-y blowout on hair with lots of layers is flattering on a heart-shaped face because it frames the face and makes the face appear a little more oval. Look at Kourtney in the bottom right hand photo, the slight off center parting creates a more oval shape and diffuses the appearance of a widow’s peak almost entirely.
- UPDOS: Try a voluminous bun or pony. That will balance out the over-all silhouette of a heart-shaped face. Also, don’t go “too full” with your updos. When they’re wider than the hairline, they can actually make the chin look longer/more pointed.
If you have a tip or trick you want to share with other girls who have a heart-shaped face, please feel free to share it below! xo
A while back I posted the top photo on my instagram page. I wanted to do a tutorial to show you how you can get this look. I also wanted to kill two birds with one stone and show you that even if you don’t have the same hair type as a girl wearing a certain hairstyle in a photo, you can still translate and modify the look to suit you and your hair type! Amy Nadine, who has finer hair that’s about shoulder length, lends me her blonde locks in the photo above and my friend Jaclyn in the tutorial below has more hair than 10 of us combine + it’s SUPER long and heavy. Their hair is totally opposite. With Amy’s hair, I gave it a bit more volume as I styled it (for example, I teased the hair before pinning the buns and pulled the braids apart a little further). But with super thick hair, I had Jaclyn coil the buns tighter and use a few more bobby pins to keep the braids a little tighter to the head. All I’m saying is don’t give up on trying an updo if you don’t have the hair you “think” you should have to get the look– at least give it a try and make it your own version! Here we go with the steps!
photos/post/graphic design: Kristin Ess
- Leave two sections out in front (basically everything from your ears forward) and clip them forward. Imagine the back of your head split into 3 sections. If you want a little volume, tease the crown and then make your first bun in back. Pin using small bobbypins and make sure the bun feels secure. If your hair is really thick and you need to use clear elastics as well, go for it.
- Next make bun number two right below that and pin.
- Now make the third (final) bun on the bottom and pin. These buns don’t need to be perfect– in fact, I think they’re better when they’re all a little different and have some texture.
- Using the hair in front that you left out, make 2 braids on each side and tie them off with the tiny clear elastics. You want to make one from the bottom half of your section and one from the top half of your section. Gently pull them apart to add some texture so they don’t look too “done”.
- You should have two braids on each side as you see in photo 5.
- Take the bottom braid from one side and wrap it around the bottom bun. You want to slide the braid in between the lowest bun and the middle bun and then wrap it around the base of the bun and pin it in place.
- I’ve illustrated a pattern in photo 7 so you can see how the braids are wrapped around.
- Once you’ve pinned your braids into place, check your balance in back by using a hand mirror. Make sure it looks good from all sides. Pin any unwanted stray hairs or fly aways and voila!
Hope everyone gives this a shot no matter what hair type you have. It’s a super-quick updo and it could be a great look for an upcoming VALENTINE’S date! xo
post: Kristin Ess graphic design: Eunice Chun
No one owns the pear face shape better than lil Miss Kelly Osbourne. A pear-shaped face means that the widest points of your jaw are slightly wider than the widest points of your hairline. Although it’s a beautiful shape, the pear-shaped face can be a difficult one if you don’t know which styles are most flattering. Most emails I get about pear-shaped faces ask how to minimize the width of the jawline. While that’s not always the goal, I give you plenty of ideas on how to either balance a pear face shape or just show ‘em what your momma gave you. Here we go!
- DEEP SIDE PART: A deep side part on a pear-shaped face will diffuse the width of the jawline if that’s what you’re trying to accomplish. Always pull a little hair near the ear out on the less heavy side like Kelly does in the bottom left photo to balance the deep side part and soften the look.
- FULL TOP KNOT: Often times it’s just best to let that beautiful face shine! Pull all of your hair up into a voluminous top knot. The tighter the top knot is the wider the jaw will appear. Adding some fullness to your top knot will even out the overall silhouette of your head shape and that puts less focus on the width of the jaw– more focus on the face and hair together.
- GO SHORT: Obviously Kelly has a great neck for short hair. If you and your hair stylist agree it’s suiting for you to go short, you should consider it. A bob, whether it’s styled straight, wavy or curly, tends to cut off the width of a wider jaw and it’s one of the most flattering cuts for pear gals. A bob (or even a lob) puts the focus in all the right places. I know not everyone can pull off a lob or bob, but if you have a pear-shaped face and you can, it’s a great way to find easy balance.
- MEDIUM-LONG HAIRCUTS: Pear-shaped face girls should always keep a chin length layer or “long bang” that falls somewhere around the chin just in case you’re having “one of those days”. We all do! One of those days where you’re rushing and you just want to throw our hair up in a high pony or bun. Pulling those long bang pieces out can soften the look a great deal. Girls with pear-shaped faces should follow the same “KEEP THE PIECE” rule as round-faced girls when getting haircuts because you want the option to be able to diffuse the width or just pull it back and embrace what you’ve got. While I would say short-medium lengths are the most flattering for a pear-shaped face, longer lengths look amazing too. Make sure to keep some long face framing layers so you don’t get buried in hair.
- VOLUME: Pear-shaped face beauties should always try to keep a little volume (unless you’re going pin-straight). Again, remember that the goal is to even out the “overall silhouette”. In other words, you want to keep the top portion of your head looking a little fuller in order to balance out the width of the lower portion.
- STYLING: Curls are a great way to diffuse the width of a wide jaw. Classic curls, deep parted Veronica Lake waves, or even just simple beachy waves with texture.
- FLAT IRONING: A super sleek head of hair with a center part can make a pear-shaped face appear more oval– but the key is not to hide behind your hair. Try flat ironing and make sure you don’t tuck the pieces near your ear. Leave those sections untucked and instead push back the bang area a little more. That will make the jaw appear more narrow and the forehead will appear a little wider balancing things out.
Never hide behind your hair! Be proud of your face shape and learn to love it. Lots of my clients have a pear-shaped face and have learned how to balance instead of over-crowding the face with hair. If you have any personal tips and trick for your fellow pear-shaped face girls, please feel free to leave them in the comments below! We stil have diamond, inverted triangle and heart shaped to go so stay tuned! xo