COLOR TALK: DEPTH

photos/post: Kristin Ess

photos/post: Kristin Ess

We don’t usually go into heavy detail about hair color around here because TBD isn’t a website geared toward industry pros (although I know some of you are, hey hunnies!!), but lately I’ve had a lot of people asking me about how to get more natural looking depth, contrast, color variation, whatever you personally like to call it. You sometimes will lose natural looking contrast over time, depending on the way your colorist does highlights. Adding some lowlights in between your highlights is one way to go but occasionally I see a new client and I just need to “start over”. I do that in 3 steps: coloring most of the hair back to it’s natural color, doing a fresh highlight, and then toning. If you feel like you’ve just lost that natural look and your hair is starting to look too solid for your liking, ask your colorist if you’d be a good candidate for this!

Who’s a candidate for this process?

  • someone who is a new client that comes in with wayyyy too many colors and tones from various processes.
  • someone who has been getting a base color + highlights (double process) who wants to return to a more natural look.
  • someone who has been in for repeated highlight appointments but never lowlights, losing contrast/color variation through the ends over time.
  • someone wanting a complete change of color, something that looks more natural.
  • someone who does not have overprocessed, weakened or broken hair.

The process:

  • I evaluate my clients hair. Emily (above) had a very heavy root growing in when I met her. She had multiple rounds of balayage in a short period of time.
  • I put some of her blondest and any weakened/delicate pieces into foils with a conditioner so I didn’t have to re-lift those. Those were mostly in front.
  • I colored the rest of her hair back to her natural color.
  • I blowdried that and then did my normal highlight over that adding Olaplex to my formula for additional insurance that she wouldn’t get any breakage.
  • I toned the hair to give it some glossy shine and to remove any unwanted warmth.

Things you should/shouldn’t do:

  • DO Make a consultation appointment with your hairstylist. Talk it over and look through photos together.
  • DO Ask them if going back to something close to your natural color and then re-highlighting would be okay for you. You want to make sure your hair is in good enough condition to handle the process. (Luckily with the advancements in color + Olaplex, this process isn’t necessarily hard on your hair the way it used to be, but still get the advice of a pro.)
  • DO Book and plan accordingly. If you’re going to do this process, just know it will take a little extra time. Make sure both you and your hairstylist have enough time to do it!
  • DON’T try this at home. I know there are some people who do a base color or even a mini highlight at home. This is not something I would suggest. It’s complicated and there are too many risks involved in doing this yourself. Leave this one to a pro.

Here is Emily’s hair curled and in the sunshine. If you want to know about these gorgeous waves, you can find the tutorial right HERE!

best beach waves ever the beauty dept

MESSY KNOTTED PONYTAIL

PHOTOS/POST/GRAPHIC DESIGN: KRISTIN ESS

PHOTOS/POST/GRAPHIC DESIGN: KRISTIN ESS

Summer’s creepin’ hard and if you’re in Southern California like us, it has arrived early. Wherever you live, warm weather means messy waves, braids and ponytails so let’s start with this gem, shall we? This look was created on the fly with no plan so excuse the unconventional-ness of it, but sometimes those make the best looks. Alright, here we go…

You’ll need (click for product details)

Air dry your hair for this tutorial for better waves and more support —>> Remember the airdrying/waves tutorial?

messy knotted ponytail tutorial

 

  1. Add some quick wand waves all around the head.
  2. Go in different directions for a messier result. Don’t brush out your waves when you finish, just finger comb at the most.
  3. Next, add a little texture powder into the hair. I like to do a LITTLE bit all over because too much will make the hair feel sticky and gross. Just a little sprinkle all over will make it feel beach-y and look fuller. The main reason we use texture powder for this is so the little strands don’t slip. Texture powder creates an amazing grip, making it much less likely for the bobby pins to slide out.
  4. Once your texture powder is applied, take two small strands from the front (right around the temple area) and pull them back.
  5. Tie those in a half knot.
  6. Take two of your mini bobby pins and criss cross them through the half knot to secure.
  7. Now the tricky part! Take those two strands from the tail of your knot and criss cross them underneath the ponytail near the nape of your neck. Grab one of your MICRO CLIPS and secure the criss crossed pieces behind the ponytail. Wiggle the tiny clip into the ponytail to conceal it. Seems like you’d see them, but trust me, these are so small, they disappear into the ponytail (which looks and feels extra thick because of the texture powder).
  8. Gather a little more hair from the back to thicken up each strand before pulling it around and tying it again.
  9. Repeat as many times as desired.  You can do it once, twice or 5 times if it will work with your length!
  10. Last you’ll want to pull the hair gently to create a little more texture. Add another sprinkling of texture powder if desired.

Love this pony for a party, a long weekend (might look even cooler second day) and it could also be a good music festival hair idea! If you try the messy knotted ponytail, be sure to tag us so we can see your handiwork! @THEBEAUTYDEPT

EASY TWISTED PONY

PHOTOS/POST: KRISTIN ESS

PHOTOS/POST: KRISTIN ESS

One of my favorite things (and I’m sure it’s one of  your favorites, too) is a quick easy hairstyle. If you’ve ever had a long night and/or a bad hair morning and/or just felt super lazy before rushing off to work, you need to learn this quick trick. All you need is two hands, a little hair refreshing mist and 4 large bobby pins.  Take that slept in hair (that was so nicely curled yesterday) and do this…

quick easy hair the beauty department

  1. Gently brush or even finger comb any tangles out of the hair.
  2. Pick a spray any spray! You can do a sea spray or a hair refresher. Either one will do the trick, depending on your hair type. For fine limp hair go with a sea spray to add texture, and for thicker coarser hair, refresher spray to calm and control.
  3. Spray a few pumps throughout the hair.
  4. Don’t forget to hit the ends!

twisted ponytail the beauty department

 

All you do is hold your ponytail in the middle of your head (near the occipital bone which is that bone in the back of your head. Twist the ponytail clockwise. It will start to twist/coil itself under. At that point you’ll get a downward french twist look. Hold the ponytail tight at the nape of your neck and use this guide to slide in your large bobby pins. I advise doing the vertical one from the bottom first. That way the other pins cross over it horizontally and lock onto it.

That’s literally it. It’s so simple but still looks pretty chic if you ask us. If you try this look, let us know! Tag in your instagram photo at @thebeautydept!

BEAUTY SHOP STOP: URBAN OUTFITTERS

photo/post: kristin ess

Recently I’ve noticed that Urban Outfitters has been stepping up their beauty game in a big way. They used to dedicate maybe a table or two to random nail polishes and lip glosses, but lately I’ve noticed they’re creating full blown beauty spaces/sections in the stores. A) That’s very smart of them because beauty related products are often the quickest impulse buys and B) It’s very convenient for ME. I’ve been stalking the UO beauty section online for a long time because they always seem to bring in the tried and true products, but they’re really good at selecting all the cool new stuff. But now it’s nice to know they’re stocking up in-store. As I’m sure you’re wondering– no, this is not a sponsored post. I just really love what they’re doing in these little beauty spaces so much and wanted to share. Here are some of the most interesting things I’ve purchased and a couple things I still want to pick up…

urban outiftters beauty roundup the beauty dept

  1. COSMETIC TOWER  These little things are an investment but I LOVE how they look on my vanity. Makes it easy to organize and easy to search for what you need.
  2. BROW AND EYE KIT Brow color is so important. Most of us naturally have a neutral or ashy shade to our brows. I use these in my studio on clients after they get their brows tinted to fill in any little sparse areas they may have naturally. You can get almost any shade by mixing these 3 colors.
  3. CUTICLE ART I don’t know why I think these are so cool. I’m toning down my nail art game right now so cuticle art seems logical? Haha. I love finger tat, so this is a fun way to get the look temporarily. They go behind your cuticle/fingernail. Maybe I need to do a post with these so you can see how they look…
  4. BEAUTY DUST I loooooove this stuff. Again– it’s a little pricey but worth it. I put this in my tea, sprinkle some on my acai bowls, etc… it’s loaded with ingredients that will give a healthy boost to your skin, hair and nails. (and that packaging is KEWT)
  5. OIL NAIL TREATMENT Not only do Paul & Joe have the cutest packaging but this cuticle oil is AMAZE. I always have my hands in water and hair color so cuticle oil is a must. I keep this within reach when I’m working in the studio, too!

favorite beauty buys the beauty dept

  1. DRY SHAMPOO WITH NETTLE A lot of people don’t realize that there’s more than one Klorane dry shampoo. This one has nettle for stimulating the scalp and this one is much more “powdery” to me. This is the particular one I use. (They also make one now for brunettes with a slight natural tint! You can find it in the related products when you click this link)
  2. SWIM SPRAY NEEEEEEEEED this for summer if you plan on swimming. Can’t stress it enough. This vitamin C treatment eliminates irritation and “that crusty feeling” caused by chlorine residue. If you are going to be in a pool and you don’t have this, I am going to be SO mad at you! (Okay, not mad but seriously disappointed.)
  3. CORIOLISS TOOL This thing is fun! It’s a flat iron and curling iron in one. I’ve been able to teach flat iron waves to the most uncoordinated clients with this contraption. Also nice to travel with to save space.
  4. COCONUT MILK SHAMPOO I’m just really into the smell and feel but the best part is it’s sulfate free! I like this because it still feels cleansing.
  5. DRY SHAMPOO WITH OAT MILK The classic. This is the Klorane most people use. I’m just glad it’s carried somewhere as accessible as UO.

urbanoutfitters beauty department

  1. EXTRA LONG BARRETTE I have a tutorial coming up this week with a long barrette. I’m very into these AND half up hair. So 90’s. This one also comes in tortoiseshell.
  2. PIN KIT UMMMMMM HI! Get this. Immediately. I am SO into this. I got one for myself (because it fits in my purse) and I buy them for assistants because it’s an INCREDIBLE starter pin kit but also so small and compact for being on set or on the go! This is definitely something every girl needs in their bathroom to do all these updos and hairstyles like a pro. The right tools and pins can seriously change your hair game. And it’s SO organized.
  3. BATISTE DRY SHAMPOO I know we’re getting into a lot of dry shampoos but there are so many different kinds. What I love about Batiste is the price and how many scent options they have. Whether you like sweet or clean or unscented they have you covered. They also have colored dry shampoos which is awesome for darker hair colors.
  4. SEA DRY SHAMPOO Okay, love this because you can sprinkle it on and it’s all natch. Let’s say my hair is on day 2 or 3 and I decide to do a pony. The spray version might blow the hairs all over causing fly aways. But with this, I can sprinkle it on and tap it in and everything stay in place. It’s just a preference thing and you get a little more control over where this goes. Also this particular one is made with natural ingredients like rice powder and kaolin clay. There’s really nothing natural about Batiste (sorry, Batiste!)
  5. ROSE MILK BATH SOAK What can I say. I like a luxurious bath from time to time. Treat yoself. It’s beautiful and smells like heaven (and is very instgrammable which is obviously most important).

urban outfitters beauty buys the beauty department

  1. COCOOIL I love coconut scented things, especially for summer (winter, spring and fall)! This beach spray is amazing for poolside or beachside days, creating a very low-maintenance natural wave when scrunched into wet hair. It keeps the hair from frizzing up and has some coconut oil in it to keep your hair from feeling dry! A little goes a long way in my experience.
  2. JASMINE HAIR PERFUME Fully into these hair perfumes. They’re soooooo light and so refreshing. There’s jasmine, rose and vanilla. I thought I would like the vanilla most but jasmine’s where it’s at for me. Spray a little into your hair after a “long night” so you don’t have to go in to work smelling like regret.
  3. MERMAID SHINE HAIR SPRAY I’ll buy anything that says “Mermaid Hair” on it. The end. (Not joking)
  4. GREEN TEA SHAMPOO A lot of my clients who use sulfate free shampoos say they love the way their hair feels but they never really feel like their scalp gets super clean. I find that this one does the trick. It somehow feels more “squeaky clean” than most sulfate free shampoos. I only use this once a week to get my hair canvas super clean, eliminating any residue build up.
  5. HAIR SERUM If you’re trying to grow your hair faster and longer, you should definitely look into hair pills because you really want to nourish from the inside, out. But don’t forget about nourishing the scalp at the same time. This is made to rub into your scalp to fortify, protect and encourage growth. If you’re already taking hair pills and feel you need a little something more, add this into your mix!

urban outfitters beauty dept

  1. ARGAN HAIR OIL This is a classic go-to for me. All natural argan oil from
  2. BAMBOO WET BRUSH I’ve talked about these brushes a million times. This one is the same, it’s just bamboo/wood and a new sophisticated look for WetBrush. I always set a hot curling iron on the plastic ones which is the main reason I wanted to get the wood one! It also feels more like a professional tool than the plastic ones.
  3. MATTE POMADE I love a matte pomade. I use it for tutorials all the time, like when we style bobs and lobs! I love mixing matte pomade together with a serum and working it into waves to give them that second day look. This product cocktail is my favorite ever. But it’s also incredible for shorter lengths like pixie cuts because you can get so much texture!
  4. MERMAID SEA SALT HAIR SPRAY I stand by my mermaid hair obsessions. This one’s for the natural girls. It’s literally pink sea salt, coconut oil and water. I was pulled in by the packaging but impressed by the product. Simple is sometimes best.
  5. BEACH WAVE IRON Clip your hair in, push a button and boom. This thing does all the work for you. I still suggest sliding clamp through the ends the same way I did HERE as well as using the products from that tutorial to get a more natural beauty look.

I hope you guys enjoyed this lil Urban Outfitters beauty round up! Are you into these kinds of shopping sprees? Should we do more? We don’t normally do round ups from a particular store but could be a fun thing for future posts. What are some of your favorite places to look for the newest, coolest beauty buys??