SHORT HAIR STYLING

PHOTOS/POST/GRAPHIC DESIGN: KRISTIN ESS

You guys have been soooo patient and kind waiting for these short hair posts and NOW I’m going to fill up your pinterest boards with all the good good you could ever want in the coming months. I’ve read all your email requests and I’ve seen every comment requesting short hair styling tutorials on our social media channels and we’re finally going to do it! I literally chopped off my super duper amazing assistant Olivia’s hair last week just so we could do these. We cut it just above her shoulders and below her chin. These tips + tricks are my favorite for bobs and lobs but can still be applied to medium length hair if you’ve grown yours out. Let’s get started with the basics for styling and then stay tuned for lots of cute short hair tutorials this spring and summer.

PRODUCT: My two favorite things that I can’t live without for short hair styling are water based pomade and mousse. We often think about mousse as a product from the 80’s and 90’s but things have changed. In order to get bob or lob length hair to take curl, but more importantly HOLD curl, you’re going to need to put some product in it most likely. Get one that’s not hard and crunchy, but one that leaves the hair soft. Apply it to wet hair and either air dry or blow-dry. Water based pomade is a great way to get separation and texture. It absorbs into the hair and doesn’t feel oily or overly product-y.

My favorites (click the link):

CURLING TRICKS: You either want your hair big and wide or you want it to look a little more narrow. Keep in mind that when you hold the curling iron horizontal you’re going to get a more “bouncy” curl or wave. When hold the curling iron vertically, you’re going to get a longer more narrow curl. If you go diagonal you’ll get something in between.

My favorite:

TIME SAVING TRICK: If you’re rushing (or if your hair is really thick in the back) just curl the ends under so they don’t stick out and only curl the layer that lays on top (see below). Cheat your way through the back! No body will ever notice. I actually prefer to do this whether I’m rushing or not. It keeps the hair more proportional in my opinion.

See… you can’t even tell.

After you’re done curling but before you apply hairspray, rub some of your water based pomade into the root. This will help keep the hair looking texture-y and piece-y for the whole day!

MOVE IT AROUND! Short hair should move! It should be fun and you should put your hands in it throughout the day! Toss it around. Give it a little flip! This will keep it from going flat and looking limp. Even if the curl falls out a bit, once you flip it to the other side it seems to come alive again! Just get all 90’s about it. WWKKD? (What would Kelly Kapowski do??) Also, keep a little extra to-go travel size jar of pomade in your purse at all times just for touch ups!

Okay! So these are the basics for everyday waves for short hair. Any tips and tricks you want to contribute? Leave them in the comments below!

TYPES OF CURL

PHOTOS/POST/GRAPHIC DESIGN: KRISTIN ESS

Yesterday I was thinking, we really need a way to show each kind of curl. Not the natural curls  that you get from good genes, but the kind you strive for when using your curling iron, wand or even a flat iron. I think this will be helpful moving forward so that when I post hair new tutorials I have a specific post to point to and reference the type curl I’m using to get that hairstyle. In this post, we’re only using a 1″ barrel curling iron because this isn’t about iron size, it’s about curl method and what type of curl each technique produces. Okay, let’s make a “Curl Catalogue”, shall we?

This is the kind of wave you find in our EVERYDAY WAVES video. You start at the top or middle and inch your way down. This is my go-to all time favorite way to curl because it’s so easy and quick. You also get a little extra hold when you start from the middle or top because you’re applying iron heat directly to that portion of the hair, which will help so much with hold. I specifically love this because if you have any frizz, the clamp, which is also hot, presses the hair to seal both sides, unlike a wand where you would have one side open (but we’ll get to that below).

This is one of my least favorite curling methods for anyone with bob length or longer, and it’s usually the one we’re taught first by our sisters, aunts, grandmas, moms, best friends, etc… when we’re young. You’d think it would make sense to start at the bottom and curl upward, but curling from the ends up puts most of the heat on the ends and very little on the middle which is where we need it most. Long run, this just dries out your ends and curl will fall out much quicker than it will if you use the “middle to ends” method up top. This curl is bottom heavy and will tend to make anything longer than bob length hair look super “triangular”. Know who this IS great for though– women with short hair who want a fuller “roller set” look.

If you like the look of the “Ends to Middle” method above but find that it doesn’t hold, or if you want that Old Hollywood glam vibe, try this one! Curl your hair, then set it with a setting clip and let it cool until all of the heat is gone and the hair is cold to the touch. I still like to start in the middle and inch my way down to the ends so that I can apply direct iron heat to the middle of the hair instead of just frying the ends until the middle gets hot enough. But when you set it and let it cool, you have a much higher chance of it holding the way you want it to.

Hello, heaven. These are the best for shorter hair because you can control where you put the dips + bumps much more than you can with a curling iron. Flat iron waves can be done on any length of hair, as you can see we did it on long hair in this tutorial. It takes a while to learn, but once you get the hang of it, it’s so easy and fast.

This is an amazing technique for all our natural texture girls or anyone who wants to spend a day away from their naturally curly hair. I have some clients who have beautiful natural curl, but every once in a great while they want to have curling iron waves, too! Using a flat iron to curl means you’re pressing the hair from both sides, eliminating puffiness or chance of frizz while you curl. It’s not something I recommend doing every day, but more on occasion. Pressing heat into your hair from both sides with a powerful flat iron every day could cause dryness, in my opinion. But then again so can any hot tool so just be mindful! If you don’t need the additional heat, then try the curling iron method at the top “Curling Middle to Ends”.

Okay, the WAND! People love a wand. The best thing about a wand is that you’re going to get lots of volume. There’s nothing pressing on the other side (like a clamp) so the hair can stay full even while being curled. In other words, it’s not being “smashed” against the hot barrel. With this method, you can see that the hair is being wrapped flat against the barrel with no twisting. The effect is a very pattern-y curl once it’s brushed out. This is my favorite for fine hair who wants voluminous waves! To keep the hair flat against the iron, you’ll have to adjust your hands each time you go around the iron, otherwise the hair will naturally want to twist around the barrel. Practice with the wand off first!

Wand way number 2! Love this for anyone trying to refine a natural curl. Twist the hair before you wrap it. Not super tight, and make sure you twist the direction of the natural curl pattern. Wrap it around the wand, release, and then gently pull and fatten it up with your fingers. I love this because the pattern, much like natural curl, isn’t exact. It’s a little tighter in one spot and a little looser in another. This is great for wavy girls who have an unruly patch of frizz.

This method is going to give you a more “boho-y” look all over. You’ll get a curling iron-like pattern up top and loose, tousled waves at the bottom. I love this for super long hair or anyone with really thick hair. Start by flat-wrapping at the top, then when you get to the middle, don’t let go of the hair, just keep wrapping and it will naturally coil.

Last but not least, the mermaid-making 3-prong iron. This is also called a waving iron. You can definitely see the pattern it makes. It’s almost like a larger, rounder crimper. Whenever I used this, I like to switch up my angles. So for example– I will press it perfectly horizontal and then move down a section and do it slightly diagonal. This makes the pattern look a little more natural and breaks up the crimped look. I would use this if I was attending a beach wedding and wanted to channel Daryl Hannah from Splash.

 

Okay, now spill it! Which one is your favorite method and what type of hair do you have? Would love to hear about it in the comments below because your feedback could greatly help another reader who is trying to find their new favorite…  READ MORE…

PRODUCT KNOWLEDGE QUIZ

Time to see what you pretty people have learned about product up until now. The list on the left includes the main products we always talk about on TBD. Each one of these products has been discussed in multiple posts. Have you learned the the general use of each one? Print the graphic above and use a pencil to match up each product on the left to it’s function on the right. Once you’ve done that, click “read more” to see the correct answers! This test will be especially useful when choosing something for your own hair at the store or beauty supply. Test begins now…  READ MORE…

DIFFUSERS 101

Why use a diffuser:
  • decreases frizz
  • maximizes shine
  • defines curls/waves
  • highlights natural texture
  • adds volume
  • less damaging
How to use:
2. Attach a diffuser to your favorite hair dryer (ours is the Elchim).
3. Switch the temperature to low or cool, unless your using a diffuser for high heat.
4. In a circular motion, starting at the scalp, begin to use the diffuser. If the diffuser has fingers let them directly connect with your hair. If your diffuser doesn’t have fingers, gently cradle your hair in your hand.
5. Continue diffusing the hair towards your ends but bringing the hair in an upward motion toward your scalp as much as possible. If possible try to scoop with the diffuser and not your hands. Let the diffuser concentrate on each section for a few seconds to define the curls, but be mindful of the temperature.
Picking the right diffuser:
1. Elchim USA Bidiffusore Diffuser: With 2 interchangable grills (known as a bi-diffuser) the Elchim diffuser is used with your hair dryer when it is on maximum heat, because you want super fast blow drying. It also comes with a rubber ring that allows it to fit on most dryers.
2. T3 Soft Touch 2 Diffuser: The first Tourmaline Ionic Ceramic diffuser, it delivers a high concentration of negative ions and far infrared heat to dry hair fast with minimal frizz and optimal shine.
Mainly known for it’s volumizing effects but also is great for decreasing frizz, defining the curls and adding wave to practically strait hair. The unique shape helps to centralize the airflow and the rubber fingers work to separate/lift the hair at your roots. Fits almost every dryer.
4. DevaCurl DevaFuser Diffuser: For patient people only! This diffuser gently dries your hair while adding volume and defining the curls. The patented 360-degree airflow minimizes frizz. To use you dry each bulk section of your hair for a couple of minutes (holding that position solid) to set the curls while evaporating the moisture.
5. YS Park Ion Diffuser: Eliminates airflow and only allows heat to be released which eliminates frizz. The silver and titanium mesh on the front is nylon and creates negative ions. Helps alleviate static electricity and
greatly reduces blow drying time. Fits every dryer because it has a strap that is adjustable and secure so it doesn’t fall off. Great for traveling or to use in your gym bag.
6. Conair Pro Plimatic Mitt Diffuser: If you are just looking for a more gentle dry and frizz decreaser the Conair Pro Plimatic Mitt fits almost every dryer and is ideal for travel. Or if you just want to pop one into your gym bag if you shower there.
7. Belson MH2349 Mega Hot Long Fngr Diffuser: Ceramic disc base with Tourmaline, this 2-in-1 diffuser has a lift and switch tool for the styling fingers. Use them, or switch them back, to use the diffuser with a flat surface. Fits almost every dryer.
8. Babyliss Pro Nano Titanium Universal Finger Diffuser: Using that famous nano-titanium technology (high, but even, infrared heat to allow for super fast drying) this diffuser brings out natural ions to seal cuticles to decrease frizz. Dome shaping is best for long hair. Fits almost every dryer.