hair

LANGUAGE OF LAYERS (part 2)

Welcome back, pretty people! Earlier this week we did part 1 of this post which was all about what to ask for when you go see your hairstylist for a haircut. We covered the most wanted haircuts for fine, normal, thin, straight, slightly wavy textures and told you what to ask for to get the most out of your salon visit. In this post, we’re talking about thicker, coarser, wavier, curlier textures. Keep in mind, you’ll always want to listen to what your hairstylist has to say because we didn’t all go to the same school and mine is not the end-all-be-all opinion. Different haircutters go through different training so ask for what you want and then be open minded to what your pro has to say, since they’re the ones with eyes on your particular head of hair. A good haircutter should have no problem doing a proper consulation with you beofre you get shampooed. You’re probably paying a decent amount, if not a lot, and you should get what you want. That being said, let’s talk options!

ASK FOR:

• some weight to be taken out of the ends.
• some layers to be added without looking chunky. I usally like to cut layers on hair like this and then I go back in using the thinning shears to take out any lines or unwanted weight.
• movement.
• tapered ends.

GOOD FOR:

• super thick blunt hair that feels too heavy.
• anyone who feels like they have a “wall” of hair.

ASK FOR:

• graduated layers. the sole purpose of graduation is to build weight. with fine curls, you usually want to layer while adding volume and this is my favorite way.
• bangs to be incorporated into the hairstyle if you want additional wave to come out. The shorter you cut wavy hair, obviously the lighter it gets, so you’re going to see more volume from adding bangs. Just be sure that’s what you want! Talk to your pro.
• something that you can put a little product in, diffuse and go.

GOOD FOR:

• fine, wavy hair that gets flat when it gets long.

ASK FOR:

• your waves to be “sliced into”. Slicing is exactly what it sounds like– your hairdresser will run his/her scissors down a small section of hair which will taper the wave and make it a little thinner toward the ends. this takes away width and often makes the hair appear even longer.
• something that elongates.
• something to take away the “triangle” caused by thick, wavy hair that’s been cut too blunt.

GOOD FOR:

• thick, natrually wavy hair.
• boho vibes/surfer girl vibes.
• those who love to wash + wear. The air-dryers!

ASK FOR:

• layers to remove heavy weight first, and texture added second by slicing though heavier waves to lighten them up.
• something that gives volume and enhances texture.
• tapered ends.
• movement.

GOOD FOR:

• thick wavy hair
• strong wave patterns
• bulky ends
• “puffy” waves
• anyone who likes to refine unruly waves using a curling wand or iron

ASK FOR:

• your hair to be cut dry first. (Wear your hair clean-ish, in it’s natural texture to the salon so your hairstylist can see it the way you wear it. We don’t have time to sit there while your hair air dries after being shampooed so it’s up to you to come in with it so we can see it the way you love to wear it. We want to see where the weight is, how much shrinkage you have before/after it’s shampooed, and how relaxed it gets after a day or two.)
• graduation. You want each layer to stack up on the next so you can get more bounce! Graduation will build weight and volume in the places you want it but will remove weight from the bottom so it’s not a giant pyramid shape.
• versatility. If you straighten it sometimes, tell your hairdresser so he/she can blow you out and make sure the cut looks good with straight hair, too. I always encourage natural texture but some people feel most comfortable with it blown and smooth and that’s okay. Just inform your hairstylist so they don’t cut it to be curly and then you end up with longer bits and pieces when it’s straightened.
• ask for your hair not to be pulled too much when cut. I like to cut my general shape by lifting but barely pulling at all. Then I go back in and slice though any curls that appear too thick/bulky while gently pulling. Some people understand cutting curly hair and some people don’t. Do your best to find someone who either has curly hair themselves or specializes in curls. It’s a different art than cutting straight or wavy hair and it takes longer to grow back so do your research. It will be worth it!

GOOD FOR:

• naturally curly hair.
• curly hair that gets wide, heavy and weighed down.

ASK FOR:

• someone who specializes in curly hair, first and foremost. When your hair is this tightly coiled, you don’t have room to mess around. Ask them if they specialize in super curly hair and if they know all about various curl types. If the answer is no, then BYE.
• your natural texture to be enhanced and refined.
• definition on the ends by subtle thinning or slicing to give shape to the circumference.
• any dried, broken ends to be removed while hair is dry.
• whatever circumference you want. be clear about how far you want it to come out from your head when it’s dry. (I like to cut dry with a little spritz of water on the section I’m working on just to prevent breakage as I’m working through. If you cut it after shampooing, you really don’t know how much it will stretch until it’s redried and restyled. Better to cut it dry with a little water spritzing, then shampoo when you’re done)

GOOD FOR:

• tight, coiled, kinky curls.

Hope this helps you guys when talking to your stylist! I just have to disclose that none of these photos are ours. Rarely do we do posts using photos from others, but I wanted to get images that speak a universal language.

If you’re a hairstylist or even someone who’s had a great experiene with a certain cut, by all means, please share it below in the comments. We love exchanging information and you may really help someone by spilling your story!