Posts Tagged ‘waterline’

EASY ON THE EYES

POST + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

This is literally the easiest technique yet gives such a striking result! Typically we rim the inner waterline with black liner for drama or white/nude liner to open the eyes. But rimming it with a shadow stick opens up tons of different color options and adds another dimension to the look. I chose a metallic bronze shadow stick on Brook above because it’s incredibly sultry and stunning against any eye color. Here’s all you need to do:

  1. Sweep a black powder shadow across the lid. You can also include the crease but typically it will travel there over time on its own.
  2. Sweep the same shadow along your lower lashline.
  3. Gently pull downwards on your lower lid with one hand and rim the inner waterline with the metallic shadow stick.
  4. Coat the lashes with mascara.

You can try this with your favorites from your makeup drawer, but these are the ones I used for this look: (more…)

A LASHLINE STUDY

Post + Photography by Amy Nadine, Graphic Design by Eunice Chun

Today I’m bringing the spotlight to the lower lashline and the many options we have to define it! So I kept two variables constant (same eye and the same upper eye makeup) in order to really see the difference between six lower lashline applications. They are:

 

  • Bare — this is a great choice when you want all of the attention to go to the upper lid makeup (causing a “lifting” effect).
  • Mascara — coat the bottom lashes with a volumizing mascara. This option brings the lower lashes to life with nothing to compete against them.
  • Dotted line — take a velvet black pencil and draw a dot in between the lashes all the way across the lashline. This option makes it appear like you have more lashes than you really do, while also defining the line without anyone knowing you’re defining it.
  • Lined — start at the inner corner and drag the pencil across the lashline to the outer corner. This is the classic choice to define the lower lashline that women have done for decades.
  • Smudged — blend the line with a smudge brush using short strokes incrementally as you work your way across the line. This makes the line a little more “smoked” and less “lined”.
  • Inner Rimmed — gently pull the lower lid down with your finger for better access to the waterline then sweep the pencil back and forth along it until no spaces remain. This option closes up the eyes a little and makes them look smaller BUT makes them look much more intense  and piercing.

It’s nice to see all the options lined up (pun intended!) to really study the different effect each application has. I personally like to switch it up depending on my mood, day v. night, my outfit, etc but I have clients who insist on leaving it bare and others who have to have it inner rimmed… while most are open to whatever balances out the upper lid. I’d love to know what you prefer so please vote below!

 

TBD STUDY: THE WATERLINE

photos + post by amy nadine, design by eunice chun

I wanted to do this particular experiment to show you how the laws of shading apply to the waterline as well: lighter colors reflect and open up areas by bringing them forward while darker colors absorb and close up areas by pushing them back. So once again my lovely assistant Carissa loaned me her baby browns so we could capture the three looks and report the differences.

WHITE LINER: This definitely opened up the eyes and made them appear the biggest, but in a more obvious way as one can see the white liner. But who cares as it’s a chic throwback to Sixties, especially if you were to pair it with a liquid winged liner and contoured crease. I used Chanel Le Crayon Khol Intense Liner in Blanc because its color payoff is unmatched.

NUDE LINER: This also opened up the eyes, making them look larger, but in a very natural and undetectable way. I seriously doubt anyone would notice you took the extra 5 seconds to rim them with liner, but they’ll notice your eyes look bigger. I used Stila Kajal Liner in Topaz.

BLACK LINER: This closed up the eyes and made them look a little smaller, but in return, they look way more piercing, as if they could look right through someone! That’s worth giving up a little in size, I think. And call me crazy, but somehow it makes her eyes look a little further apart from each other, don’t you think? Hmm… interesting… anyway, this is a must for nighttime fun as it completely changes your look. I used NARS Larger Than Life Longwear Liner in Via Veneto because I know it really lasts and won’t wear away after an hour.


AN INSIDE JOB

Most days, we leave the inner water line bare. If you’re not sure what the water line is, I’m referring to the area on your lower lid just above the roots of your lashes that touches the inside of your eye. And when I want to really make sure it’s bare, I clean up any mascara, eyeliner or shadow that found its way on it by sweeping a wet cotton swab across it.

But on a lot of occasions, it’s fun to define the water line.  And you have two options: you can go dark (black, burgundy, brown, navy, forest green) or light (white or nude). But for teaching purposes, I’ll break it down to black and white.

post design by eunice chun/photos: imaxtree.com, luca cannonieri & greg kessler

BLACK: This makes your eyes look really intense and piercing. The downside is it closes up the eye and makes it appear a little smaller, but who cares because it’s so striking! Using a black eyeshadow, kohl liner or kajal liner, gently pull the lower lid downward and fill in the line by moving the pencil back and forth or “stamping” the shadow brush as you move across. You can see our model demonstrate the technique in Step 5 of our Purple Reign video tutorial. Kajal liner is the most intense option as it looks a little like a grease paint, but it doesn’t last as long. For longevity, first use a pencil then follow with a black shadow to make it last. Do NOT use a liquid liner as most will burn and give you red eyes. And don’t forget to check your inner tear ducts throughout the night for black gook (I don’t know the proper term for eye booger… gross!) and quickly clean it up in the powder room with your pinky finger.

photos: michele morosi & gorunway.com

WHITE: This makes your eyes look bigger and more open. It was most popular in the Sixties and every now and then my clients and I like to finish a look with it. Using a white kohl pencil, again gently pull the lower lid downward and trace the water line back and forth.  Clean up any residue that might end up on your lashes by pulling it off with your fingers, then follow with mascara.

So remember, when you want your eye color to look really piercing, rim the inner waterline with a dark shade, and if you want to open up your eyes and make them look bigger, rim them with a light color.

XO, Amy Nadine