Posts Tagged ‘undereye’

THE CONCEALER WARM UP

the beauty department concealer warm up

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

The under-eye area is a tricky one. Covering dark circles can go awry and frustrate even the most skilled of makeup artists! Especially when the product creases and accentuates the lines. But you can actually help prevent that from happening by doing this one thing that accomplishes two results.

When you swipe the concealer stick against the inside of your arm where your pulse is, it:

  1. thins it out so you don’t apply it too thickly and
  2. warms it up with your body’s temperature so it glides on and melts in more easily. Hallelujah!

My friend and up-and-coming actor Amelia Brantley shows us how here:

TOOLS:

STEPS:

  1. Swipe the concealer stick against the inside of your hand where you would check your pulse (as demonstrated by Amelia above). This thins it out.
  2. Wait at least 30 seconds while your body temperature warms it up. While you’re waiting, work on a different feature of your face!
  3. Sweep the brush against the product on the pulse of your arm to load it with a thin layer.
  4. Now follow the hollow of the under eye area, where the skin is the darkest.
  5. Continue along the hollow as shown above.

 

UNDER-EYE CONCEALER CREASE PREVENTION

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

One of the most frequent questions that I get asked is how to I prevent my under-eye concealer from creasing throughout the day. Honestly it’s kind of the nature of the beast but this trick will help you E-NOR-MOUS-LY! I’ve shown you in past tutorials how to press tissue over it after you applying it (and before setting powder) but if you want to skip that step, try this!

TBDStopTheCreasesSTEPS

TOOLS:

STEPS:

  1. Always wash your hands before doing your makeup. Squeeze a small amount of concealer on the back of your hand. If you’re using a concealer stick, swipe it across the back of your hand.
  2. Use your finger to “pull” 1/5th of the product away from the original pile to thin it out significantly.
  3. Now swipe the concealer brush against the part that you pulled away. In essence, this forces you to never EVER apply a thick (or even normal) layer of concealer under you eye that will only end up creasing because it’s too much product. Remind yourself: the thinner the layer, the less it will crease.
  4. Apply the (now-thinned out) concealer under your eye as usual.
  5. Step back from the mirror and determine if you’ve knocked out all of the darkness or if you need to apply a second very thin layer.
  6. Press the puff against the powder, press it twice against the back of your hand then gently press it over the concealer you applied under your eye. Between thinning out the concealer and setting it with powder and a puff, you should be locked in all day with no problems. If your under eyes are extra oily, try this tissue press as well as a triple threat!

TBDStopTheCreasesFINAL

For enquiring minds, Magali is wearing this liquid eye shadow in Caviar!

HOW TO PREVENT YOUR CONCEALER FROM CREASING

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

As a makeup artist, there are about five questions that I get asked over and over. I get this one the most: how do I prevent my undereye concealer from creasing? I totally get it! You conceal your undereyes either because you have dark circles or because you love to brighten the area. Then you look in the car mirror and it’s creased. Not cool. But that’s only because you didn’t set it right! We tend to apply a little more concealer than we need and the excess product travels and settles into the creases. All can be prevented if we only took a second to absorb the excess with a quick press of tissue then an immediate setting with powder. Yes powder! A lot of my clients fear powder in the undereye area because they feel like it will settle in their lines and make them look older. I promise you if you follow these steps with these products, it will not crease. I can only feel confident saying that because I do it on all of my clients and myself and have for a very long time. Here’s how you can too:

TOOLS:

  • Your Favorite Concealer — we’re all obsessed with this one ($$) and this top-secret drugstore find ($) on sale!
  • A Tissue
  • Your Favorite Setting Powder — this ($$) is what I’ve been using on all of my girls this summer because one of my makeup idols Robin Siegel (who did the makeup for Jen, Courtney and Lisa for years on Friends) taught me about it and it never fails to set everything but not be cakey.
  • A Powder Puff — I love this one ($$) and this one ($). If you haven’t added a puff into your tool kit yet, you’re killing me! It presses the powder into the skin so it stays put.

STEPS:

  1. Apply concealer to the undereye area. Revisit this post to make sure you’re doing the right!
  2. Wrap a tissue around your finger and press it on the concealer you just applied.
  3. Continue lifting and pressing along the undereye area to remove the excess product that would have ended up creasing.
  4. Set it with powder by pressing the puff against the pressed powder then pressing it over the undereye area.

For those of you asking for the other products applied, I used this shadow palette (Beigely on lid and Orange You Fancy in the crease), this lash lifting mascara and this false lash strip!

PUFFY EYE SECRET WEAPON

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

I’ve always recommended keeping two spoons in the freezer to have on hand for an important date so you can place them under your eyes to help bring your puffy “bags” down. I also know that a lot of pageant contestants use Preparation H to bring the swelling of the puffy bags down, but I’ve never tried that and could never imagine buying it at the store, even though I’m sure it works great! You’ve also seen my Sleeping Technique Tutorial to help drain while you’re sleeping. Today, we’re sharing another way that will help bring down the bags, passed on to me by my dear friend and celebrity stylist Ilaria Urbinati!

TBDGotBags steps

It combines the cooling power of the spoons with the moisturizing power of your favorite eye cream! It might seem silly but don’t be so quick to dismiss. Try it on one eye and do your own experiment! For a traditional cream, apply it as demonstrated above by dotting NOT directly on your crow’s feet or lashlines but a few millimeters below so it doesn’t creep into your eyes, irritate them and cause more puffiness and swelling. Then pat it in. If you’re using one with an applicator tip, roll it back and forth in the same area above and really feel the cold tightening everything. Then pat in any excess with your finger if you’re applying makeup right away, otherwise, let it soak in on its own if you have a little more time. Yes, it’s not the most convenient place to keep eye cream, but what I do is when I go in the kitchen in the morning to feed the dogs, I grab my eye cream from the fridge and apply it right then and there!

TBDGotBagsFaves

TBD FAVORITE EYE CREAMS:

For those of us on a budget, this one with its tri-ball roller is my favorite drug store find!