Posts Tagged ‘undereye’

HOW TO PREVENT YOUR CONCEALER FROM CREASING

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

As a makeup artist, there are about five questions that I get asked over and over. I get this one the most: how do I prevent my undereye concealer from creasing? I totally get it! You conceal your undereyes either because you have dark circles or because you love to brighten the area. Then you look in the car mirror and it’s creased. Not cool. But that’s only because you didn’t set it right! We tend to apply a little more concealer than we need and the excess product travels and settles into the creases. All can be prevented if we only took a second to absorb the excess with a quick press of tissue then an immediate setting with powder. Yes powder! A lot of my clients fear powder in the undereye area because they feel like it will settle in their lines and make them look older. I promise you if you follow these steps with these products, it will not crease. I can only feel confident saying that because I do it on all of my clients and myself and have for a very long time. Here’s how you can too:

TOOLS:

  • Your Favorite Concealer — we’re all obsessed with this one ($$) and this top-secret drugstore find ($) on sale!
  • A Tissue
  • Your Favorite Setting Powder — this ($$) is what I’ve been using on all of my girls this summer because one of my makeup idols Robin Siegel (who did the makeup for Jen, Courtney and Lisa for years on Friends) taught me about it and it never fails to set everything but not be cakey.
  • A Powder Puff — I love this one ($$) and this one ($). If you haven’t added a puff into your tool kit yet, you’re killing me! It presses the powder into the skin so it stays put.

STEPS:

  1. Apply concealer to the undereye area. Revisit this post to make sure you’re doing the right!
  2. Wrap a tissue around your finger and press it on the concealer you just applied.
  3. Continue lifting and pressing along the undereye area to remove the excess product that would have ended up creasing.
  4. Set it with powder by pressing the puff against the pressed powder then pressing it over the undereye area.

For those of you asking for the other products applied, I used this shadow palette (Beigely on lid and Orange You Fancy in the crease), this lash lifting mascara and this false lash strip!

PUFFY EYE SECRET WEAPON

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

I’ve always recommended keeping two spoons in the freezer to have on hand for an important date so you can place them under your eyes to help bring your puffy “bags” down. I also know that a lot of pageant contestants use Preparation H to bring the swelling of the puffy bags down, but I’ve never tried that and could never imagine buying it at the store, even though I’m sure it works great! You’ve also seen my Sleeping Technique Tutorial to help drain while you’re sleeping. Today, we’re sharing another way that will help bring down the bags, passed on to me by my dear friend and celebrity stylist Ilaria Urbinati!

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It combines the cooling power of the spoons with the moisturizing power of your favorite eye cream! It might seem silly but don’t be so quick to dismiss. Try it on one eye and do your own experiment! For a traditional cream, apply it as demonstrated above by dotting NOT directly on your crow’s feet or lashlines but a few millimeters below so it doesn’t creep into your eyes, irritate them and cause more puffiness and swelling. Then pat it in. If you’re using one with an applicator tip, roll it back and forth in the same area above and really feel the cold tightening everything. Then pat in any excess with your finger if you’re applying makeup right away, otherwise, let it soak in on its own if you have a little more time. Yes, it’s not the most convenient place to keep eye cream, but what I do is when I go in the kitchen in the morning to feed the dogs, I grab my eye cream from the fridge and apply it right then and there!

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TBD FAVORITE EYE CREAMS:

For those of us on a budget, this one with its tri-ball roller is my favorite drug store find!

PUFFY EYE FIX

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

Sleep time can be used to make our puffy eyes better. Or how you’re sleeping can actually be making it worse! There are two ways that can majorly improve your under-eye area and wake up actually looking rested. Here’s how:

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TRICK #1: Prop your head, neck and shoulders up with an extra pillow. If you lie flat, you’re not doing yourself any favors. But if you prop your head, neck and shoulders up a little by using two pillows instead of one, it will help with lymphatic drainage, fighting the tendency for things to get puffy. Worth it in my book! If you don’t own two pillows and don’t want to spend anything, you can fold your pillow in half. If you’re a side sleeper like I am naturally, try to break the habit. It helped me to prop another pillow under my knees in the beginning. Apparently it takes two weeks to break a habit, so work at it for a couple weeks and see how you do. I can’t say there aren’t mornings that I don’t wake up on my side but that’s something beyond my control so I let it go!

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TRICK # 2: This is for when we have a big day coming up and we really want to look our best! With your head propped up AND your under-eyes equipped with an eye mask or loaded up with eye gel, you’re doubly combating the issue and will be ecstatic with the results.

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TBD FAVORITES:

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

There’s actually a third trick that I hopefully taught you a couple years ago when applying your eye cream at night to avoid waking up to puffy eyes. Remember? You can revisit it here!

 

UNDER EYE UNDO

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

Here’s the deal. If you only have dark circles, you can apply a concealer that is a half shade lighter than your foundation to the under-eye area and be good to go. But… if you have dark circles and puffy “bags,” you’re actually making things look worse!

Remember back in Art class: One of the first things we studied was dimensions and we learned that if you shade something with a darker color, it will “push” it to the background, like it’s further away. On the contrary, if you paint with a lighter shade, it “pulls” that area to the foreground, making it appear closer. We can apply that theory here!

 

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Here’s the trick: Under-eye shadows need a lighter shade to bring them forward. Puffy bags are already in the foreground and need to be pushed back, which is why you want a slightly darker shade. A lighter shade will bring them even more forward, making them look puffier! That’s the last thing you need!

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TOOLS:

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STEPS:

  1. After applying foundation all over the face and neck, look in the mirror and focus your eye to only see the dark area. This is not the puffy area! This is the area that is darker and most likely closest to your nose or under the puffy “bag”. Trace the correcting pen over the dark area to lighten it up.
  2. Now notice only the part that is puffy and raised. Apply the liquid concealer in the slightly darker shade directly on top of it.
  3. Blend with your finger by tapping it instead of smearing it.
  4. Continue tapping as you move across.

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