Posts Tagged ‘thick’

QUICK TIP: THICK LASHES

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

It blows my mind that so many of us don’t do this! Ok, I’ll come back down from my high horse because I too didn’t learn this trick until I went to makeup school at the Makeup Designory (MUD). But it’s a game changer and when you start doing it, you’ll wonder why you too didn’t think of this before! Typically, when we coat our lashes with mascara, we focus on the part that we (and others) can see. But there’s another side that’s getting ignored. The backside. Why bother painting it? Because it thickens the lashes and makes them stiffer and stand more upright. It only takes a tiny bit of extra energy and is worth the 5 seconds. Here’s how:

TOOLS:

  • Your Favorite Mascara — Right now I’m obsessed with this one, used on Rachel above because not only does it really coats and separates each lash, it lifts them and holds them up like no other mascara I’ve found before it. I also love this one for those of us on a tighter budget this month.

STEPS:

  1. Wiggle the wand from root to tip as you typically would on the outside of the lashes.
  2. Now here’s the trick: look down and coat the lashes on the backside by stroking the wand from root to tip on the side of your lashes that we never see. Then go back and repeat step 1 to flare them back upwards now that you’ve thickened them.
  3. Finish by coating the bottom lashes as well.

LANGUAGE OF LAYERS (part 2)

Welcome back, pretty people! Earlier this week we did part 1 of this post which was all about what to ask for when you go see your hairstylist for a haircut. We covered the most wanted haircuts for fine, normal, thin, straight, slightly wavy textures and told you what to ask for to get the most out of your salon visit. In this post, we’re talking about thicker, coarser, wavier, curlier textures. Keep in mind, you’ll always want to listen to what your hairstylist has to say because we didn’t all go to the same school and mine is not the end-all-be-all opinion. Different haircutters go through different training so ask for what you want and then be open minded to what your pro has to say, since they’re the ones with eyes on your particular head of hair. A good haircutter should have no problem doing a proper consulation with you beofre you get shampooed. You’re probably paying a decent amount, if not a lot, and you should get what you want. That being said, let’s talk options!

ASK FOR:

  • some weight to be taken out of the ends.
  • some layers to be added without looking chunky. I usally like to cut layers on hair like this and then I go back in using the thinning shears to take out any lines or unwanted weight.
  • movement.
  • tapered ends.

GOOD FOR:

  • super thick blunt hair that feels too heavy.
  • anyone who feels like they have a “wall” of hair.

ASK FOR:

  • graduated layers. the sole purpose of graduation is to build weight. with fine curls, you usually want to layer while adding volume and this is my favorite way.
  • bangs to be incorporated into the hairstyle if you want additional wave to come out. The shorter you cut wavy hair, obviously the lighter it gets, so you’re going to see more volume from adding bangs. Just be sure that’s what you want! Talk to your pro.
  • something that you can put a little product in, diffuse and go.

GOOD FOR:

  • fine, wavy hair that gets flat when it gets long.

ASK FOR:

  • your waves to be “sliced into”. Slicing is exactly what it sounds like– your hairdresser will run his/her scissors down a small section of hair which will taper the wave and make it a little thinner toward the ends. this takes away width and often makes the hair appear even longer.
  • something that elongates.
  • something to take away the “triangle” caused by thick, wavy hair that’s been cut too blunt.

GOOD FOR:

  • thick, natrually wavy hair.
  • boho vibes/surfer girl vibes.
  • those who love to wash + wear. The air-dryers!

ASK FOR:

  • layers to remove heavy weight first, and texture added second by slicing though heavier waves to lighten them up.
  • something that gives volume and enhances texture.
  • tapered ends.
  • movement.

GOOD FOR:

  • thick wavy hair
  • strong wave patterns
  • bulky ends
  • “puffy” waves
  • anyone who likes to refine unruly waves using a curling wand or iron

ASK FOR:

  • your hair to be cut dry first. (Wear your hair clean-ish, in it’s natural texture to the salon so your hairstylist can see it the way you wear it. We don’t have time to sit there while your hair air dries after being shampooed so it’s up to you to come in with it so we can see it the way you love to wear it. We want to see where the weight is, how much shrinkage you have before/after it’s shampooed, and how relaxed it gets after a day or two.)
  • graduation. You want each layer to stack up on the next so you can get more bounce! Graduation will build weight and volume in the places you want it but will remove weight from the bottom so it’s not a giant pyramid shape.
  • versatility. If you straighten it sometimes, tell your hairdresser so he/she can blow you out and make sure the cut looks good with straight hair, too. I always encourage natural texture but some people feel most comfortable with it blown and smooth and that’s okay. Just inform your hairstylist so they don’t cut it to be curly and then you end up with longer bits and pieces when it’s straightened.
  • ask for your hair not to be pulled too much when cut. I like to cut my general shape by lifting but barely pulling at all. Then I go back in and slice though any curls that appear too thick/bulky while gently pulling. Some people understand cutting curly hair and some people don’t. Do your best to find someone who either has curly hair themselves or specializes in curls. It’s a different art than cutting straight or wavy hair and it takes longer to grow back so do your research. It will be worth it!

GOOD FOR:

  • naturally curly hair.
  • curly hair that gets wide, heavy and weighed down.

ASK FOR:

  • someone who specializes in curly hair, first and foremost. When your hair is this tightly coiled, you don’t have room to mess around. Ask them if they specialize in super curly hair and if they know all about various curl types. If the answer is no, then BYE.
  • your natural texture to be enhanced and refined.
  • definition on the ends by subtle thinning or slicing to give shape to the circumference.
  • any dried, broken ends to be removed while hair is dry.
  • whatever circumference you want. be clear about how far you want it to come out from your head when it’s dry. (I like to cut dry with a little spritz of water on the section I’m working on just to prevent breakage as I’m working through. If you cut it after shampooing, you really don’t know how much it will stretch until it’s redried and restyled. Better to cut it dry with a little water spritzing, then shampoo when you’re done)

GOOD FOR:

  • tight, coiled, kinky curls.

Hope this helps you guys when talking to your stylist! I just have to disclose that none of these photos are ours. Rarely do we do posts using photos from others, but I wanted to get images that speak a universal language.

If you’re a hairstylist or even someone who’s had a great experiene with a certain cut, by all means, please share it below in the comments. We love exchanging information and you may really help someone by spilling your story!

 

KITCHEN BEAUTICIAN

Post by Carissa Ferreri, Photography by Amy Nadine, Graphic Design by Eunice Chun

Our guest blogger Carissa Ferreri is back with this little genius alternative for healthy brows and lashes! Take it away Carissa! (more…)

LEMME BREAK IT DOWN.

photo: istockphoto post designed by kristin ess

Alright, time to give you the rundown on this little bottle of magic we call dry shampoo. It’s one of my favorite products on the market today and I love teaching people about it! I’m always surprised when people sit in my chair and haven’t heard of it. I can talk about it all day, and I’m about to…

What is it?

Dry shampoo is a super-fine powder that comes in spray-on, dust-on and shake-on forms. Its main purpose is to soak up the oil your scalp produces, which is what makes our hair look dirty. This brilliant cylinder of dust can literally take the hair from looking oily and limp to looking freshly blown out in one quick POOF!  Consider it like facial blotting papers, but for your hair.

What are the benefits of dry shampoo?

Where do I begin? First of all, when you apply dry shampoo, you’re allowing your natural oils to stay in contact with your hair longer, which we know is good. The reason we don’t usually like to do that is because after a while, it looks, um, gross. Dry shampoo = best of both worlds. Oils can stay put, nourishing the hair, while the powder takes away the unwanted sheen! (I really want to add a link to “unwanted sheen” but i won’t.)

Some of you thermally straighten your hair with a blow dryer and/or flat iron. When you do that, you want to make it last as long as possible so you’re not over doing it with heat styling. Putting dry shampoo on freshly straightened locks can easily extend the life of a blow out. Think of it like this; high temperatures cause condensation + gland stimulation at your scalp. Oil, sweat and moisture lead to curls coming back. Applying dry shampoo to the roots before working out or stepping out into warmer weather can significantly slow that down by soaking it all up!

M’ladies with short hair and bangs. I know I don’t have to tell you that your hair comes in constant contact with your forehead, picking up the oils from your face, causing annoying, unwanted separation which you justify by calling it “whispy”. A burst of dry shampoo WILL. FIX. IT. It also gives incredible added texture to short, cropped hair when applied on top of a water based pomade or paste.

Most of my clients with thick, coarse or naturally curly hair used to think they couldn’t use dry shampoo. Truth is, they can and should. When hair is super thick, curly or coarse, it naturally lacks moisture because oils don’t travel down the hair as quickly. It could need more time between shampoos! Going one extra day between washings can help natural oils make their way down the hair shaft that much further. If the hair is very dry, try lightly applying dry shampoo on the part only, and putting a little jojoba oil on the ends. Jojoba oil is the closest thing to the oil our scalp produces.

The only people who don’t really need dry shampoo are those of you who don’t produce much oil or those of you that have a dry scalp. The few who can go 3-5 days without so much as a glimmer of unwanted sheen are very lucky. Just be sure you’re properly conditioning and getting nourishment to the ends of your hair!

When do you put it on?

Dry shampoo goes on air dried or blow dried hair. Not on wet hair. Originally I thought it was best to put dry shampoo on your roots when it started to look dirty. Maybe 2 or 3 days after you blow dry, and that’s still great! But my favorite thing now is to put it on right after I blow the hair out.  That way, as the oils come out, it “catches” them. This keeps it from getting dirty and flat to begin with. I’ve come to find that dry shampoo on clean hair leads to extra bounce and volume. I use this trick on photo shoots a lot.

Where do I get it?

There are lots of different kinds of dry shampoo out there today. It’s become widely available and insanely popular so you won’t have a hard time finding it. You can find it at the drug store, or next time you go into your salon, ask your stylist which one they recommend. Test it out! See how your hair feels and most importantly how it looks!

How do I apply it?

You want to apply dry shampoo where hair might appear dirty. In other words, if you’re wearing your hair down, you don’t need to apply underneath in the back, mostly just on the top, maybe around the part and along the front hairline. If you’re wearing your hair up in a bun or ponytail, you’ll want to get underneath a little bit. The ultimate trick with ANY dry shampoo is patting it in. Not brushing, not wiping with your hand, just patting it lightly until it blends in. This is how you stay away from it looking “powdery”.

xxkristin