Posts Tagged ‘skin’

QUICK TIP: CONTOURING

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

Over the last few years, contouring has become mainstream after decades of being a secret weapon that makeup artists learned in school to add dimensions back to the face after creating a blank canvas with foundation. I’m not gonna lie, it has gotten a little extreme for my taste but if you’re reading this here, your taste is a little more natural like mine. Anyway, today we’re sharing a contouring must that a lot of people don’t know about! When you sculpt your cheeks, it’s prettiest if you don’t bring the contour shading too far in. Why not? Because it ages you in a very unflattering way. We want to hollow out our cheeks but we need the suppleness of the apples to look healthy and young! And the easiest way to achieve this is to imagine a line from the end of your brow straight down your cheek then simply don’t cross it. Some makeup artists place the line at the arch of the brow, but my mentor and idol Mary Greenwell taught me one afternoon in Madrid never  to bring it in that far, and I agree. And you don’t have to hold the brush up every time! Quickly you’ll be able to eye it. Here’s how:

TOOLS:

  • Your Favorite Contour Cream — I was so excited when this cream palette came out and it’s $40 off right now!
  • or Your Favorite Contour Powder — This iconic contour & highlighting palette has everything you’ll ever need in shades that work gorgeously on most skin tones; while this duo works well with your budget!
  • A Flat-Headed Contour Brush — I love this dual-ended slenderizer brush that really presses the product into the skin.
  • A Densely-Packed Blush Brush — the wavy soft fibers of this brush makes it like nothing you’ve ever used before. The best!

STEPS:

  1. Hold a brush or a pen/pencil perpendicularly straight down from the end of your brow as demonstrated with Lacy above. Make a mental note where it crosses your cheek area. If you need more than a mental image, you can use your non-dominant hand to hold the brush in place while you use your dominant hand to contour, but it doesn’t have to be exact or anything, so just eye it and you’re good.
  2. Now that you know how far to bring it, follow the hollow of your cheek (just under the cheekbone) inward and stop where the imaginary line is.
  3. Go back in the other direction and bring it all the way to the ear area so there isn’t a blank space there.
  4. Switch to the unused brush and blend it in by gently swirling over it until it’s half the intensity it was originally.

TBDImaginaryContourLineFINAL

MAKEUP BRUSH UP

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

I’ve spent 12 years building the perfect makeup kit to use on my celebrity clients. It’s super streamlined into two small, eclectic hat boxes on rollers (seen here!), and to make it into my kit, each item has to be the best of the best. So I spend my time curating what’s out there and when something comes along that performs better than what I’m currently using, I swap it out. Here are the current winners that I went so crazy over, I couldn’t replace the previous ones fast enough!

TBDNewBrushMustsFACE

FACE:

  • Liquid Foundation Brush — this splurge is my most favorite liquid foundation brush I’ve ever found. The bristles are dense but incredibly soft and movable instead of stiff and hard like a lot of foundation brushes. This save rocks too.
  • Powder Foundation Brush — when I got my hands on this splurge last week, I couldn’t stop playing with it! Its flat head is mega wide, covering a lot of area as it blends. This save covers a lot of surface area too.
  • Cream Foundation Brush — this divine one was especially formulated to softly buff cream foundation into the skin instead of sitting on top of it.
  • Concealer Brush — if you’re an avid TBD reader, you know I’ve been obsessed with this 3DHD concealer brush for awhile now because its steeple-like head can sneak into the contours of your eyes (for dark circles) and around your nose (for redness) like no other brush out there.
  • Powder Brush — This sculpting brush is actually a contour and highlight brush for this Bronze & Go Palette but I’ve been using it for months as a powder brush on my girls because I like to target powder just the T-zone and a big powder brush can’t get into the crevices as well.

TBDNewBrushMustsCONTOUR

CONTOUR & HIGHLIGHT:

  • Cream Contour & Highlight Brush — contouring and highlighting has really taken hold over the last year thanks to YouTube and social media that all of the brands have taken notice and come out with amazing products and matching brushes to get the job done. Believe me, I’ve tried them all. And this dual-ended one is my favorite because the contour side is super long and narrow to really follow the hollow of your cheek while the highlight side is angled to glide over areas that you want to catch the light. And considering you get two brushes in one, it’s a fair price to me.
  • Powder Contour Brush — I love this angled contour brush because I’ve found the fluffier the brush, the less muddy the contour looks (nothing is worse!).
  • Powder Highlight Brush — This ultra-wide fan brush deposits just the right amount of highlighting powder to bring your face to life. Always use a fan brush for highlighting! It’s a game changer.

TBDNewBrushMustsBLUSH

BLUSH:

  • Powder Blush Brush — Okay, this one is the creme-de-la-creme of all the blush brushes out there. You use it once and you’ll feel why. It’s one of those things that hard to explain, but next time you’re at the department store, walk up to the counter and try it for yourself. It’s heaven on a stick! It’s a splurge though so if you don’t want to make that kind of an investment yet, try this stylish save.
  • Cream Blush Brush — I like a densely-packed angled contour brush for cream blushes (with shorter bristles and way less fluffy than the one I use for powder contouring).

Keep you brushes clean with my DIY Natural Brush Cleaning tutorial and whenever you get your hands on a new amazing brush, please let us know in the comments below! And if you liked this post, I can go back into my kit and pull out my new favorite eye and brow brushes and share them with you too!

PUFFY EYE SECRET WEAPON

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

I’ve always recommended keeping two spoons in the freezer to have on hand for an important date so you can place them under your eyes to help bring your puffy “bags” down. I also know that a lot of pageant contestants use Preparation H to bring the swelling of the puffy bags down, but I’ve never tried that and could never imagine buying it at the store, even though I’m sure it works great! You’ve also seen my Sleeping Technique Tutorial to help drain while you’re sleeping. Today, we’re sharing another way that will help bring down the bags, passed on to me by my dear friend and celebrity stylist Ilaria Urbinati!

TBDGotBags steps

It combines the cooling power of the spoons with the moisturizing power of your favorite eye cream! It might seem silly but don’t be so quick to dismiss. Try it on one eye and do your own experiment! For a traditional cream, apply it as demonstrated above by dotting NOT directly on your crow’s feet or lashlines but a few millimeters below so it doesn’t creep into your eyes, irritate them and cause more puffiness and swelling. Then pat it in. If you’re using one with an applicator tip, roll it back and forth in the same area above and really feel the cold tightening everything. Then pat in any excess with your finger if you’re applying makeup right away, otherwise, let it soak in on its own if you have a little more time. Yes, it’s not the most convenient place to keep eye cream, but what I do is when I go in the kitchen in the morning to feed the dogs, I grab my eye cream from the fridge and apply it right then and there!

TBDGotBagsFaves

TBD FAVORITE EYE CREAMS:

For those of us on a budget, this one with its tri-ball roller is my favorite drug store find!

SPRING MAKEUP INSPIRATION

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

Every season I try to create one tutorial with a pretty and simple way to reflect the season with your makeup! This Spring, bring your lids to life with this totally wearable metallic silver shadow and pair it with this happy cheek and soft coral lip pop. Here’s how:

TOOLS:

TBDSpringAwakeningEYES

TBDSpringAwakeningCHEEKLIP

STEPS:

  1. Wet the lid brush in water and dip it in the silver shadow to create a paste. Sweep it across the lid and crease to create a single color wash.
  2. Wet the eyeliner brush in water and dip it in the brown shadow to create a paste. Trace it along the upper lashline as demonstrated on Brooke above. You can also wing it out and up if you prefer elongating your eye.
  3. Add a couple coats of mascara.
  4. If you wear foundation/powder, now is the time to apply it. Then smile in the mirror so your apples pop out and swirl the blush on the top half of them.
  5. Finish by applying the tinted lip balm directly from the tube.

TBDSpringAwakeningFINAL