Posts Tagged ‘shadow’

EYELINER STUDY

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

Did you know that there are tiny, subtle things you can do with your lower lashline eyeliner to make your eyes look more “open” and awake or more elongated and almond-shaped? It’s true! Regardless of what you do with lining your upper lashline, take a second to think about how you line your lower lashline (if at all) and your decision will tweak the way your eye looks. If you only line the center part of it, it will make your eye look more open and reinforce a rounder shape. If you only line the outer corner of the lower lashline, it will make your eye look longer and more almond shape. If you go a step further and rim the inner waterline, it will make the eye look slightly more closed but much more piercing. Let’s walk through each one:

TOOLS:

TBDLowerLashlineCENTER

ROUND/OPEN:

  1. Trace the pencil ONLY along the center of the lower lashline. This creates the illusion that the eye is more “open” and rounder.
  2. Smudge it a little with your finger or the cotton swab. This step is optional but I always prefer a smudged liner unless it’s a liquid cat eye, obviously.

TBDLowerLashlineCORNER

ELONGATED:

  1. Trace the pencil ONLY along the outer half of the eye. You could even do just the outer quarter or third if you wish.
  2. Smudge it a little with your finger or the cotton swab. Again this step is optional.

TBDLowerLashlineWATERLINE

INNER WATERLINE:

  1. If you want to add more drama and make the Corner Flush more piercing, rim the inner waterline the same distance (outer half, outer third or outer quarter).

I simplified everything by not lining the upper lashline, but you could also line the whole upper lashline, just the corner, or make it thicker as you progress from the inner to outer corner… there are tons of ways to change your eye shape! Which style is your favorite? For even more examples of lower lashlining, revisit my Lower Lashline Study from a couple years ago!

For those of you asking about the eyeshadow above, I used this gorgeous sage green palette ($$$)! You can also try this budget-friendly shadow in Green Glimmer ($).

EYE SHADOW ENLIGHTENMENT

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

I learned this little trick from my idol Mary Greenwell when we were on a press tour in Rome, Madrid and London (she was doing Cate Blanchett’s makeup and I was doing Geoffrey Rush’s grooming for Elizabeth The Golden Age). I love that it’s incredibly subtle but brings the lid to life with a tiny twinkle when you blink or look down. No glitter. Nothing to hit you over the head. Just a hint of frost to catch and reflect the light. Here’s how:

TBDSecretLidPop2

TOOLS:

  1. Your Favorite Eye Shadow — I used this lavender shadow quad ($$$) on Eva because the shades of purple are universally gorgeous on every skin tone but this lilac one ($) is less of an splurge!
  2. A Lighter Shadow For The Pop — pick a slightly frosted shade so it catches the light like this one in Ice ($$) or this one ($).
  3. A Slightly Darker Shadow To Wet and Use As A Liner — I used the darker purple shadow from the palette.
  4. Your Favorite Lash Curler — I know everyone loves the Shu Uemura Curler and I love it too because it’s ultra-wide, but this one has the strongest pinch I’ve ever found!
  5. Your Favorite Mascara — I used this favorite one on Eva to really separate and coat each lash.

TBDSecretLidPopSTEPS

STEPS:

  1. Sweep the lavender/lilac shade all over the lid and crease.
  2. Trace it along the bottom lashes as well.
  3. Press your finger into the frosted lighter shade and stamp it on the center of your lid. You might have to do it twice to really make it pop!
  4. Wet a liner brush and dip it in the darker shadow. Trace it along the upper lashline. You can also wing it out like I did.
  5. Pinch the lashes with the curler.
  6. Finish with a couple coats of mascara.

Heaven! And speaking of, I was lucky enough to convince the heavenly Eva Amurri Martino to model for us! You probably recognize her from Undateable, Californication and Saved, or because she looks a lot like her mom Susan Sarandon! She just launched her new lifestyle blog Happily Eva After and it will quickly become one of your favorite reads. So good!

BRUSH BASICS

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

A lot of us never think about how we use our eye shadow brushes. And maybe you’re already using it this way subconsciously! But just in case, here’s a guideline to remember. There are five sides to a brush: the tip, two long sides and two flat sides. This is how I love to use them:

  • Use the LONG SIDE to shade the contour (crease).
  • Use the TIP to go back and blend it back and forth.
  • Use the FLAT SIDE to fill in the lid.

TOOLS:

TBDEyeContourBrushSTEPS

STEPS:

  1. Load up the LONG SIDE of the brush with the contour (darker) shade.
  2. Trace the contour of the eye (the crease) with the LONG SIDE of the brush.
  3. Now go back over the crease with the TIP of the brush and blend back and forth.
  4. Fill up the FLAT SIDE of the brush with the lid (lighter) shade and fill in the lid space.
  5. You can add liner (I didn’t) then coat the lashes with mascara.

TBDEyeContourBrushFINAL

 

LIGHTEN UP!

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

This Summer why not ditch the dark smoky eyes and try something different? Something that you’ll friends will notice is nothing you’ve ever done before. Something that is light but head-turning… a creamy metallic eye tint is just what you need! I’ve been obsessed with eye tints; using them on my clients and myself every chance I can. Because the formulas  do. not. crease. Or feather. They stay where you put them and have way more intensity than a shadow could ever hope for. So here’s your chance to break out of your comfort zone and try something new. Here’s how:

FAVORITE EYE TINTS:

  • I used this one ($$) in shade #5 Green Iron on Penelope above and have kind of been wearing it every day since I got my hands on it. Something gorgeous happens to it over time and it becomes really sparkly. Prepare yourself for tons of compliments.
  • I also really love this one ($$$) because it comes with a cream tint and a shimmer to stamp on top, this one ($) that comes with a cream on one end and glitter on the other end and this one ($) which is just a beautiful cream shine shadow.

STEPS:

  1. Apply it directly with the wand if applicable or a brush if it’s in a pot or tube. I apply it as a color wash all over both the lid and the crease but you can just do the lid.
  2. Blend the crease portion with your finger. This is optional. Sometimes I do it, sometimes I don’t!

Pair it with mascara, cream blush and a lip stain or balm and you’re set for Summer! You can also line your eyes to bump it up for night, but if you’re going to do more than rim the inner waterline, just wait a couple minutes for the tint to dry. You can also add a copper eyeshadow “sunset” to the crease to make it more dramatic for nighttime. But I like to go lighter in the Summer. Regardless, have fun!