Posts Tagged ‘shadow’

DRAW, SMUDGE & SMEAR!

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

When shadow sticks came along a few years ago, the makeup industry was changed forever! They put the intensity of a cream shadow into a rounded stick that glides with ease. Then they formulated them to be smudgeable for a minute then set and last for hours without fading. Like all makeup, you can apply them however you prefer. I’ve found that if you want to make sure it doesn’t crease in the crease, this is the way to apply it. And the trick is not to apply it into the crease. Instead, only apply it on the lid, then smear and smudge it with your finger into the crease creating a slow fade. Here’s how:

TBDShadowSticks101TOOLS

OUR FAVORITES:

TBDShadowSticks101DIAGRAM

STEPS:

  1. Directly from the tube, draw across the entire lid as demonstrated on Lacy below. Leave the crease bare.
  2. Place your finger on top of what you just drew and start to smudge it upward into the crease.
  3. Now that you’ve smudged it into the crease, start to “drag” or pull it towards the outside corner of the crease. See the diagram below.
  4. Apply a couple coats of mascara and you’re good to go!

TBDShadowSticks101STEPS

If you prefer brushes over your fingers, you can absolutely use one to blend the shadow up in step 2 and over step 3, but with your finger, you have the advantage of your body temperature to help move the product around better. You can also apply it to the bottom lashline if you wish. Just trace along it with the stick then smear it gently with your finger or a Q-tip.

TBDShadowSticks101FINAL

 

AMP IT UP SERIES

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

The holidays are coming, making it the perfect time to start kicking things up a little! So begins our Amp It Up Series, showing you different ways to take it the extra mile in the chic-est way possible. Today we’re taking a traditional shadow look and adding a “sunset” behind it for instant drama. Here’s how to create a copper halo:

TOOLS:

  • A Metallic Brown Shadow — I used Dark Horse from the gorgeous Urban Decay Naked Palette,¬†a staple in most makeup artists’ kits.
  • A Metallic Copper Shadow — I used Ardency Inn’s Modster Manuka Honey Pigment in Copper. You can also use Half Baked from the Urban Decay Palette for a more subtle halo effect.
  • A Black Kohl Pencil — You might have noticed by now that I’m obsessed with Charlotte Tilbury’s Rock n Kohl Pencil because it’s one of the blackest black pencils out there and doesn’t smear or run.
  • A Volumizine Mascara — If you haven’t tried Eyeko’s Black Magic Mascara yet, you’re in for a treat! It’s incredibly black, making your lashes show up from across the room.

TBDSunsetEffectSTEPS1

TRADITIONAL SHADOWED LID:

  1. Apply the metallic brown shade all over the upper lid. Include the crease but not above it. I wet the brush slightly to intensify the pigment, but you don’t have to if you don’t want to.
  2. Apply the same shade along the bottom lash line.
  3. Rim the inner waterline with the black kohl pencil, letting it also fill in the spaces in between the lashes.
  4. Line the upper lash line with the same black kohl pencil. I winged it up and out on Magali above, but that’s a personal call depending on your mood and lid shape.
  5. Add a couple coats of mascara.

TBDSunsetEffectSTEPS2

SUNSET EFFECT:

  1. Sweep the copper shade along the crease, just above the mettalic brown lid and extend it out slightly as demonstrated above.
  2. Trace the copper shade just below the metallic brown on the lower lash line.

TBDSunsetEffectFINAL

 

EYE SHADOW BREAKDOWN

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

Unless you’ve been on a deserted island this last year, you’ve noticed that the cut crease has taken over Instagram and Pinterest! It’s a nod to the mod looks of the 1960’s and super easy to recreate if you break it down a step at a time. Here’s how:

TOOLS:

STEPS:

1. Line the crease “socket” with the longwear pencil by starting at one corner and tracing along the crease in an arched shape until you reach the other corner.

2. Dip the crease brush into the metallic brown shadow and sweep it back and forth over the crease line, concentrating on blending it directly on the line and upward but not downward.

3. Load up one more time with the metallic brown shadow and repeat step 2.

4. Line the upper lashline and wing it slightly at the same angle of the cut crease.

5. Switch to the blackest black kohl pencil and line the lower lashline and rim the inner waterline.

7. Pick any matte color in the rainbow and sweep it across the lid carefully. You can absolutely do this step before the liner if you’re worried about accidentally going over it.

8. Add a couple coats of mascara.

9. Dip the smudge brush into metallic brown shadow and sweep it under the liner on the lower lashline. Then stamp the highlighting shadow in the inner corners with your finger.

 

SECRET TO BROW SHADOW

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

This one step reversal is a game changer. Many of us don’t think brow shadow makes enough impact (even after with my side-by-side shadow/pencil/pomade/tinted gel post here). That’s ok! We all have our preferences and makeup is an expression of our individuality. But I would be amiss if I didn’t share this trick with you! Typically we use brow wax to set the brows after we apply shadow, hence the term “setting wax.” But try this instead:

TOOLS:

STEPS:

  1. Brush the hairs up and over with the spooly brush.
  2. Load the brush up with wax by sweeping it across the wax multiple times.
  3. Sweep the brush along the brow with short quick strokes mimicking hairs as you work from the base to the tail coating the hairs with wax.
  4. Dip the same brush into the brow shadow to load it up with product.
  5. Sweep the brush along the brow hairs making the same short quick strokes. The brow shadow will adhere to the wax much better than applying it directly to the brow.
  6. Brush the hairs up and over again with the spooly brush.
  7. Finish by tapping your finger in the cream highlighter and sweeping it under the brow.

For those of you asking about the cat ears, I bought them at BCBG but don’t see them on their site yet!