Posts Tagged ‘rim’

LINE AND DEFINE: A QUICK STUDY

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

By now you know that I love a good comparison study! Because when we see something side-by-side, it’s much easier to see what each technique really does. Does rimming the entire eye make it more piercing or make the eye look smaller? Is it more dramatic when it’s smudged? Is it worth it to rim the waterline? Let’s walk through each “ring”:  (more…)

EASY ON THE EYES

POST + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

This is literally the easiest technique yet gives such a striking result! Typically we rim the inner waterline with black liner for drama or white/nude liner to open the eyes. But rimming it with a shadow stick opens up tons of different color options and adds another dimension to the look. I chose a metallic bronze shadow stick on Brook above because it’s incredibly sultry and stunning against any eye color. Here’s all you need to do:

  1. Sweep a black powder shadow across the lid. You can also include the crease but typically it will travel there over time on its own.
  2. Sweep the same shadow along your lower lashline.
  3. Gently pull downwards on your lower lid with one hand and rim the inner waterline with the metallic shadow stick.
  4. Coat the lashes with mascara.

You can try this with your favorites from your makeup drawer, but these are the ones I used for this look: (more…)

TBD LINER TRICK: INSTANT INTENSITY

photos + post by amy nadine, graphic design by eunice chun

This is one of the oldest tricks in the book and how makeup artists made gel liners back in Old Hollywood. It really fills in the holes in between your lashes and gives you an intense smudge like a kajal liner or grease paint. It’s super simple and easy, but if you’re a minor please get adult supervision.

TOOLS

  • A kohl eye liner pencil from your local drug store. Our favorites {that you probably already have in your makeup drawer} that work especially well using this technique are this Maybelline one and this one from Covergirl.
  • An open flame {a lighter is nice because it’s portable, but you can also use a candle or a gas stove top}.

STEPS

  1. To slightly liquefy it, hold the tip of the pencil in the flame for one quick second. Don’t even say one Mississippi!
  2. Wait 15 seconds for the pencil to cool down. It gets really hot so you have to let it cool down then always test it out on the back of your hand before you go anywhere near your eye!!
  3. Roll it a little on the back of your hand to mold and keep the tip pointed while it’s becoming a solid again.
  4. Sweep the liner along your upper + lower lashlines as well as your inner waterline if you want to make your eyes even more piercing.

AN INSIDE JOB

Most days, we leave the inner water line bare. If you’re not sure what the water line is, I’m referring to the area on your lower lid just above the roots of your lashes that touches the inside of your eye. And when I want to really make sure it’s bare, I clean up any mascara, eyeliner or shadow that found its way on it by sweeping a wet cotton swab across it.

But on a lot of occasions, it’s fun to define the water line.  And you have two options: you can go dark (black, burgundy, brown, navy, forest green) or light (white or nude). But for teaching purposes, I’ll break it down to black and white.

post design by eunice chun/photos: imaxtree.com, luca cannonieri & greg kessler

BLACK: This makes your eyes look really intense and piercing. The downside is it closes up the eye and makes it appear a little smaller, but who cares because it’s so striking! Using a black eyeshadow, kohl liner or kajal liner, gently pull the lower lid downward and fill in the line by moving the pencil back and forth or “stamping” the shadow brush as you move across. You can see our model demonstrate the technique in Step 5 of our Purple Reign video tutorial. Kajal liner is the most intense option as it looks a little like a grease paint, but it doesn’t last as long. For longevity, first use a pencil then follow with a black shadow to make it last. Do NOT use a liquid liner as most will burn and give you red eyes. And don’t forget to check your inner tear ducts throughout the night for black gook (I don’t know the proper term for eye booger… gross!) and quickly clean it up in the powder room with your pinky finger.

photos: michele morosi & gorunway.com

WHITE: This makes your eyes look bigger and more open. It was most popular in the Sixties and every now and then my clients and I like to finish a look with it. Using a white kohl pencil, again gently pull the lower lid downward and trace the water line back and forth.  Clean up any residue that might end up on your lashes by pulling it off with your fingers, then follow with mascara.

So remember, when you want your eye color to look really piercing, rim the inner waterline with a dark shade, and if you want to open up your eyes and make them look bigger, rim them with a light color.

XO, Amy Nadine