Posts Tagged ‘powder’

POWDER DON’T!

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

This little powder rule has saved me so many times. Powder can be your best friend when you find the perfect balance of taking down shine but keeping your skin looking alive and healthy. But it does you no favors if you powder the perimeter of your face. Why? Because that’s where our faces tend to have the most facial hair. And nothing brings attention to facial hair more than powder! I learned that the hard way on one of my first cover shoots in 2005 that was shot outside in direct light. I felt so bad when it came out that I had to learn that lesson at my client’s expense. Luckily she never said anything about it and continued booking me but I never forgot it! Anyway, the perimeter of the face doesn’t tend to shine that much anyway, so it’s okay to skip it and concentrate all of the shine patrol on the T-zone where we need it.

TOOLS:

STEPS:

  1. Dip the brush into the loose powder or against the pressed powder. Tap it against the compact to release the excess then stipple (press) the powder brush repeatedly as you move across the forehead.
  2. Press it in between the eyes as you work your way down the bridge of the nose. Be careful powdering your upper lip if you have peach fuzz there. The best way to deal with that area is by pressing the puff/pad that comes with the powder instead of a powder brush, and pressing it in downward motions.
  3. Press it on each side of the nostrils and also hit the apples of the cheeks.
  4. Finish by pressing it on the chin.

Note: If you have cystic acne and it’s along the face perimeter, you will want to powder the foundation/concealer to set it. In this case, switch from a powder brush to a puff and press it carefully on. Buy a pack of disposable puffs so you can use a new one each day.

QUICK FACE BRUSH TIP

Tutorial and Photography by Amy Nadine, Graphic Design by Eunice Chun

Tutorial and Photography by Amy Nadine, Graphic Design by Eunice Chun

This quick tip is super simple and might even seem irreverent but I promise you when you tweak the way you hold the brush, your makeup will benefit. Let’s walk through it together!

POWDER BRUSH:

  • You want to choke down on the handle almost all the way to the bristles so you can really stipple (press) it down instead of sweeping it across.
  • Press and lift, press and lift repeatedly along the T-zone.
  • These are my favorite powder brushes at different price points: this one ($$) and this one ($).

BLUSH BRUSH:

  • Hold the brush at the very end of the handle as demonstrated by Emily above. This helps you apply less pressure (be less “heavy-handed”) when you apply blush.
  • Dust the blush softly as you swirl the brush on the top half of the apples or along the top of the cheekbones, depending on how you like to achieve a flush.
  • My favorite blush brushes are this one ($$) and this one ($).

UNDER-EYE CONCEALER CREASE PREVENTION

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

One of the most frequent questions that I get asked is how to I prevent my under-eye concealer from creasing throughout the day. Honestly it’s kind of the nature of the beast but this trick will help you E-NOR-MOUS-LY! I’ve shown you in past tutorials how to press tissue over it after you applying it (and before setting powder) but if you want to skip that step, try this!

TBDStopTheCreasesSTEPS

TOOLS:

STEPS:

  1. Always wash your hands before doing your makeup. Squeeze a small amount of concealer on the back of your hand. If you’re using a concealer stick, swipe it across the back of your hand.
  2. Use your finger to “pull” 1/5th of the product away from the original pile to thin it out significantly.
  3. Now swipe the concealer brush against the part that you pulled away. In essence, this forces you to never EVER apply a thick (or even normal) layer of concealer under you eye that will only end up creasing because it’s too much product. Remind yourself: the thinner the layer, the less it will crease.
  4. Apply the (now-thinned out) concealer under your eye as usual.
  5. Step back from the mirror and determine if you’ve knocked out all of the darkness or if you need to apply a second very thin layer.
  6. Press the puff against the powder, press it twice against the back of your hand then gently press it over the concealer you applied under your eye. Between thinning out the concealer and setting it with powder and a puff, you should be locked in all day with no problems. If your under eyes are extra oily, try this tissue press as well as a triple threat!

TBDStopTheCreasesFINAL

For enquiring minds, Magali is wearing this liquid eye shadow in Caviar!

HOW TO APPLY BRONZER CORRECTLY

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

It’s an honest mistake and I can see the thinking behind it, but bronzer isn’t meant to be applied all over the face! Obviously it’s meant to create an illusion that you are tanner than you actually are and to do that, you have to recreate the effects of the sun. So picture this: you are laying out or walking around in the sun without sunblock or a hat. The sun would hit the protruding parts of your face first and the most. That’s where you want to concentrate the application. Bronzing is different than contouring. When you’re contouring you’re adding depth and dimension by “pushing” features back (the hollows of your cheeks) or adding shadows to make features look smaller or slimmer (the jawline, the tip/sides of your nose maybe, your hairline). On the other hand, when you’re simply adding a healthy sunkissed glow, you focus on the features that would be hit by the sun (the cheekbones, the forehead, the bridge of your nose, the chin). Make sense? Here’s how!

TOOLS:

TBDBronzeItRightSteps

STEPS:

  1. Swirl the brush in the bronzing powder and tap it against a counter to release the excess. Then apply it directly on top of the cheekbones where the sun would hit.
  2. Continue across the forehead.
  3. Sweep the brush across the bridge of the nose.
  4. Dust it lightly against the chin.
  5. Now the neck is an area that is mostly shaded from the sun, but it’s imperative that you apply bronzer there too to match your face!

TBDBronzeItRightPale

I was looking at the before shots I took of Carolyn and I had to include one in this tutorial to remind us all that pale is equally as striking and we can choose either depending on our mood that day, you know?!