Posts Tagged ‘highlight’

THE NATURAL CONTOUR & HIGHLIGHT

the beauty department the natural contour + highlight

Post/Photos: Amy Nadine, Graphic Design: Eunice Chun

We’ve seen quite a lot of contouring and highlighting the last few years… some are nailing it, some are afraid to even attempt it and others are walking around looking, well, a little like fashion victims. I hate to say it! Especially because I think makeup is a creative expression and I hate when people call someone else’s makeup “wrong”. But there’s always room for improvement and constructive criticism (blend blend blend!) and this contouring and highlighting technique just might make all the difference in the world! Because when it comes to C&H, it’s better if people didn’t know you did it and it shouldn’t be read by the naked eye.

the beauty department natural contour + highlighting trick

So try this: instead of doing it after you apply foundation (with cream or powder contouring & highlighting products), do it before with liquid or cream products!! Then apply foundation lightly over it and around it using a stippling motion with a dampened egg sponge.  It gives a much more natural look and people won’t notice that you added the dimensions back in. Here’s how:

the beauty department natural contour + highlighting tools

TOOLS:

STEPS:

the beauty department contour

  1. After moisturizing your face, apply two drops of liquid bronzer onto the palm of your hand.
  2. Swirl the foundation brush into the bronzer to load it up.
  3. Look in the mirror and suck in your cheeks. Follow the hollow by pressing the brush repeatedly as you move along just under the cheekbone.
  4. Sweep the brush along the temple.
  5. Sweep the brush along the hairline.
  6. Sweep the brush just under the jawline.

the beauty department highlight

7.  Squeeze a pea-sized amount of the liquid highlighter into the palm of your hand.

8.  Load up the kabuki concealer brush by swirling it into the highlighter.

9.  Sweep the brush along the under-eye area to draw the bottom half of an infinity sign.

10.  Continue drawing the infinity sign above the brow as demonstrated above.

the beauty department foundation

11.  Pump a few drops of foundation into the palm of your hand.

12.  Dip the egg-shaped sponge into the foundation a few times to load it up.

13.  Lightly stipple (press repeatedly) the sponge along the perimeter of the highlighted and contoured cheek areas and gently over them.

14. Repeat on the forehead.

15.  Repeat on the nose, chin and any other bare areas.

16.  Finish with a pop of cream blush on the top half of the apple of the cheeks.

Set everything with powder and you’re good to go!

A ROSY FLUSH

TBDCheekTrioFB

Yes of course you can use only one blush shade. But there’s something beautiful that happens when you combine a warm shade across the whole cheekbone, a cool shade to pop the apple and a shimmer shade to highlight everything! Sometimes a cool tone by itself can come off a little clowny and needs the support of a warm shade. Sometimes a warm shade doesn’t pop enough without a splash of a cool tone. And both cool and warm shades come to life with a little shimmer to draw the attention to the cheekbones. Here’s how to create a flush inspired by roses:

TBDCheekTrioTools

TOOLS:

  1. A Warming Shade — I used Tarte Chic to Cheek Amazonian Clay Blush in Classic (check out the value in this holiday set!) but you can use any warm-toned powder blush. Think peach, warm nudes or apricots. I used the Charlotte Tilbury Powder & Sculpt Brush because of its perfect shape to apply then blend back and forth on its side.
  2. A Pop Shade — I used Dior Rosy Glow Awakening Blush in Petal but again, you can use any cool-toned powder blush. Think pink, fuchsia… anything blue based. I love to use this MAKE UP FOR EVER Blending Blush Brush for swirling on the apples of the cheeks.
  3. A Highlighting Shade — I used Maybelline Mineral Powder Illuminator but you can use your favorite highlighting shimmer powder. I used the Armani Round Eye Contour Brush because it’s really fluffy like a blush or powder brush but gives way more precision.

TBDCheekTrioSTEPS

STEPS:

  1. Sweep the warming shade across the entire cheekbone, including under where #2 is applied above.
  2. Swirl the cool shade in a circle on the top half of the apple that is circled on Magali above. (To find the apple, smile in the mirror and it will pop out like a little ball.)
  3. Finish by tracing the highlighting shade on the top half of the cheekbone, just under the eye area.

HIGHLIGHT AND CONTOUR TRICK

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

I know a lot of our readers are still intimidated by contouring and highlighting and if you’re one of them, this tutorial is for you! There are many different ways to highlight and contour different features, depending on which ones you want to pull forward (highlight) or push back (contour). In case you missed it, check out my C & E Tutorial from last year for another really easy version. But if you’re still thinking to yourself “I’ll never take the time to do that,” then try this!

TOOLS:

STEPS:

  1. Before you apply foundation (but after primer if you’re a primer girl), start by drawing two upside-down triangles underneath the eyes with the concealer stick as demonstrated above.
  2. Draw a third upside-down triangle on the lower half of your forehead also with the concealer stick..
  3. Draw a sideways right-angled triangle just under each cheekbone with the lowlight sculptor and a precision brush. Think of it as a “support” that holds up the bone. Really it’s creating a shadow to make the cheekbone look more pronounced.
  4. Draw a sixth triangle with the concealer stick on the chin just below the lower lip. You can do steps 1-4 in any order.
  5. Blend blend blend by swirling the kabuki brush along the edges of each triangle.
  6. Once every thing is blended, pump a few drops of foundation in the palm of your hand and dip the egg sponge in a few times to load it up. Now stipple (press) the sponge lightly over everything, concentrating again more on the edges of each highlight and contour than actually going over them. And of course fill in the areas that are bare.
  7. Finish by smiling in the mirror and applying the blush on the top half of the apples and along the area in between the highlight and the contour (if you look at the cheekbone, the highlight is just above it, the contour just below it and the blush goes directly on it).

 

HIGHLIGHTER AND BLUSH DUO

Liquid blush is the best way to create a natural-looking flush. It melts into the skin better than cream or powder blush. Liquid highlighter illuminates your eyes better than powder highlighter can. Basically, liquid is the way to go. And dotting, blending and stippling are how we get it done.  (more…)