Posts Tagged ‘highlight’

MAKEUP BRUSH UP

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

I’ve spent 12 years building the perfect makeup kit to use on my celebrity clients. It’s super streamlined into two small, eclectic hat boxes on rollers (seen here!), and to make it into my kit, each item has to be the best of the best. So I spend my time curating what’s out there and when something comes along that performs better than what I’m currently using, I swap it out. Here are the current winners that I went so crazy over, I couldn’t replace the previous ones fast enough!

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FACE:

  • Liquid Foundation Brush — this splurge is my most favorite liquid foundation brush I’ve ever found. The bristles are dense but incredibly soft and movable instead of stiff and hard like a lot of foundation brushes. This save rocks too.
  • Powder Foundation Brush — when I got my hands on this splurge last week, I couldn’t stop playing with it! Its flat head is mega wide, covering a lot of area as it blends. This save covers a lot of surface area too.
  • Cream Foundation Brush — this divine one was especially formulated to softly buff cream foundation into the skin instead of sitting on top of it.
  • Concealer Brush — if you’re an avid TBD reader, you know I’ve been obsessed with this 3DHD concealer brush for awhile now because its steeple-like head can sneak into the contours of your eyes (for dark circles) and around your nose (for redness) like no other brush out there.
  • Powder Brush — This sculpting brush is actually a contour and highlight brush for this Bronze & Go Palette but I’ve been using it for months as a powder brush on my girls because I like to target powder just the T-zone and a big powder brush can’t get into the crevices as well.

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CONTOUR & HIGHLIGHT:

  • Cream Contour & Highlight Brush — contouring and highlighting has really taken hold over the last year thanks to YouTube and social media that all of the brands have taken notice and come out with amazing products and matching brushes to get the job done. Believe me, I’ve tried them all. And this dual-ended one is my favorite because the contour side is super long and narrow to really follow the hollow of your cheek while the highlight side is angled to glide over areas that you want to catch the light. And considering you get two brushes in one, it’s a fair price to me.
  • Powder Contour Brush — I love this angled contour brush because I’ve found the fluffier the brush, the less muddy the contour looks (nothing is worse!).
  • Powder Highlight Brush — This ultra-wide fan brush deposits just the right amount of highlighting powder to bring your face to life. Always use a fan brush for highlighting! It’s a game changer.

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BLUSH:

  • Powder Blush Brush — Okay, this one is the creme-de-la-creme of all the blush brushes out there. You use it once and you’ll feel why. It’s one of those things that hard to explain, but next time you’re at the department store, walk up to the counter and try it for yourself. It’s heaven on a stick! It’s a splurge though so if you don’t want to make that kind of an investment yet, try this stylish save.
  • Cream Blush Brush — I like a densely-packed angled contour brush for cream blushes (with shorter bristles and way less fluffy than the one I use for powder contouring).

Keep you brushes clean with my DIY Natural Brush Cleaning tutorial and whenever you get your hands on a new amazing brush, please let us know in the comments below! And if you liked this post, I can go back into my kit and pull out my new favorite eye and brow brushes and share them with you too!

LET’S COMPARE!

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

One of my favorite things to do is to pick a feature and compare the different ways that we can accentuate and define it. Today, let’s take the browbone; the area just underneath the brow. Daily, for the most part, I leave mine bare. Not because visually that’s my favorite look, but probably because these days I like to keep my morning routine fast and minimal. But if you watch me makeup my clients, I always either use a highlighter or a balm to add a little life to the area. It draws the attention to the brow, which has the important task of framing the eye. So let’s compare them and decide which one we like the best!

TOOLS:

HIGHLIGHTER STEPS:

  1. Trace a line directly underneath the brow, starting at the very beginning and ending at the end of the tail. You can make the area under the tail a little thicker if you wish.
  2. Smear the line back and forth with your finger until it’s blended but not too much that it’s gone!

BALM STEPS:

  1. Either swipe your finger against a lip balm in its pot or squeeze a pinhead-sized amount of face gloss onto your finger and swipe it against the back of your hand to thin it out a little.
  2. Gently smear it along the browbone directly underneath the brow, concentrating it under the brow tail.

    For those of you who like to know everything we use, this is the lid shadow in Grey Pearl and this is the crease shadow in Shimmer Copper, while this is the curling mascara used!

THE NATURAL CONTOUR & HIGHLIGHT

the beauty department the natural contour + highlight

Post/Photos: Amy Nadine, Graphic Design: Eunice Chun

We’ve seen quite a lot of contouring and highlighting the last few years… some are nailing it, some are afraid to even attempt it and others are walking around looking, well, a little like fashion victims. I hate to say it! Especially because I think makeup is a creative expression and I hate when people call someone else’s makeup “wrong”. But there’s always room for improvement and constructive criticism (blend blend blend!) and this contouring and highlighting technique just might make all the difference in the world! Because when it comes to C&H, it’s better if people didn’t know you did it and it shouldn’t be read by the naked eye.

the beauty department natural contour + highlighting trick

So try this: instead of doing it after you apply foundation (with cream or powder contouring & highlighting products), do it before with liquid or cream products!! Then apply foundation lightly over it and around it using a stippling motion with a dampened egg sponge.  It gives a much more natural look and people won’t notice that you added the dimensions back in. Here’s how:

the beauty department natural contour + highlighting tools

TOOLS:

STEPS:

the beauty department contour

  1. After moisturizing your face, apply two drops of liquid bronzer onto the palm of your hand.
  2. Swirl the foundation brush into the bronzer to load it up.
  3. Look in the mirror and suck in your cheeks. Follow the hollow by pressing the brush repeatedly as you move along just under the cheekbone.
  4. Sweep the brush along the temple.
  5. Sweep the brush along the hairline.
  6. Sweep the brush just under the jawline.

the beauty department highlight

7.  Squeeze a pea-sized amount of the liquid highlighter into the palm of your hand.

8.  Load up the kabuki concealer brush by swirling it into the highlighter.

9.  Sweep the brush along the under-eye area to draw the bottom half of an infinity sign.

10.  Continue drawing the infinity sign above the brow as demonstrated above.

the beauty department foundation

11.  Pump a few drops of foundation into the palm of your hand.

12.  Dip the egg-shaped sponge into the foundation a few times to load it up.

13.  Lightly stipple (press repeatedly) the sponge along the perimeter of the highlighted and contoured cheek areas and gently over them.

14. Repeat on the forehead.

15.  Repeat on the nose, chin and any other bare areas.

16.  Finish with a pop of cream blush on the top half of the apple of the cheeks.

Set everything with powder and you’re good to go!

A ROSY FLUSH

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Yes of course you can use only one blush shade. But there’s something beautiful that happens when you combine a warm shade across the whole cheekbone, a cool shade to pop the apple and a shimmer shade to highlight everything! Sometimes a cool tone by itself can come off a little clowny and needs the support of a warm shade. Sometimes a warm shade doesn’t pop enough without a splash of a cool tone. And both cool and warm shades come to life with a little shimmer to draw the attention to the cheekbones. Here’s how to create a flush inspired by roses:

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TOOLS:

  1. A Warming Shade — I used Tarte Chic to Cheek Amazonian Clay Blush in Classic (check out the value in this holiday set!) but you can use any warm-toned powder blush. Think peach, warm nudes or apricots. I used the Charlotte Tilbury Powder & Sculpt Brush because of its perfect shape to apply then blend back and forth on its side.
  2. A Pop Shade — I used Dior Rosy Glow Awakening Blush in Petal but again, you can use any cool-toned powder blush. Think pink, fuchsia… anything blue based. I love to use this MAKE UP FOR EVER Blending Blush Brush for swirling on the apples of the cheeks.
  3. A Highlighting Shade — I used Maybelline Mineral Powder Illuminator but you can use your favorite highlighting shimmer powder. I used the Armani Round Eye Contour Brush because it’s really fluffy like a blush or powder brush but gives way more precision.

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STEPS:

  1. Sweep the warming shade across the entire cheekbone, including under where #2 is applied above.
  2. Swirl the cool shade in a circle on the top half of the apple that is circled on Magali above. (To find the apple, smile in the mirror and it will pop out like a little ball.)
  3. Finish by tracing the highlighting shade on the top half of the cheekbone, just under the eye area.