Posts Tagged ‘haircolor’

KEEP RED HAIR FROM FADING

Post: Kristin Ess, top photo by Kristin Ess, bottom photos Kristin Ess, Angela Kohler + Tyler Jennings

MERMAID ALERT. Hands down the most frequent question I get asked when I meet people for the first time is how I keep my red hair so bright. Everyone looks at you when you’re a hair colorist as if you’re holding out on some mega-secret that’s finally going to crack the case on color fading. The truth is, there’s a whole list of secrets! There not just one magic potion to pour on your head. If there was, I would own it by now and I would share it with you right here. I’ve written about red hair color on TBD before as a blogger, but now I want to write from the perspective of a fellow redhead. I could just list off a bunch of color safe shampoos but there are plenty of color shampoo roundups online, right? Instead I’m going to give you a rundown of the things I do and things I don’t do to keep my hair the brightest! These are all tips that I know work because over the last decade I’ve been every single shade of roja and I’ve taken lots of notes. Here are my top 10 ways that I keep my un-natural (but totally natural) red hair on point…

  1. I have a custom conditioner made. You have to find a Davines salon and get a pro to make you one, but it’s worth it. HERE is a salon locator. So many conditioners out there for redheads are off on their tone. They’re either too pink or too yellow or too translucent. Trust me on this. Find a salon and let them mix your exact shade.
  2. Cool water washing isn’t a myth. In the winter time, I will even knock up the heater temp in the bathroom just so I can handle the cooler water setting. It doesn’t need to be cold, it just shouldn’t be hot. Changing my water temperature did slow the fading and made my hair more reflective in the long run.
  3. Swimming in a chlorinated pool? NO. Hair exposed for long periods of time in the sun? NEVER. Just don’t do it. Not unless you plan on getting your color done within the next couple days. No… just no. I only swim in salt water or fresh water. If I get in a chlorinated pool, I just won’t put my hair in, end of story.
  4. Spray leave-In conditioner is a must. I always use THIS ONE because I’ve tried about a hundred and there’s not another one like it. It seals, protects and shines like the top of the Chrysler Building. If I leave on a trip without it, it’s the first thing I have to locate when I land.
  5. Permanent color, then gloss. So for my own formula, I have someone apply my root color first which is a cream-based permanent color, then I put another cream-based permanent color through the ends. And THEN I go the extra mile and gloss over that while at the shampoo bowl (after my color has been rinsed). It takes about 20-25 minutes and it’s a similar process to a deep conditioning treatment. My hair used to fade like crazy when I didn’t put a gloss over the permanent color. I attribute most of my current vibrance to glossing over the regular cream-based color. You’re definitely going to get charged for that at the salon, but it’s not insanely expensive and it isn’t sold to people without a license. I prefer glossing my hair with Shades EQ which is from Redken. Ask your colorist or find a Redken salon HERE.
  6. Glosses in between colors. Again, it takes the same time as a deep conditioner so prioritize! I do my roots every 2 1/2-3 months, so I find a time right smack in the middle of my color appointments to get glossed. Again, I gloss with the same Shades EQ formula as before.
  7. I definitely keep blowdrying to a minimum. I’m not saying I skip blowdrying because my hair has strong wave/frizz and needs to be blown out, I just wash less (see next tip!). I’ve never done my own scientific study on this, but I know from experience that running hot air into my red locks on the daily is a no.
  8. Invest in a great dry shampoo. My favorites are THIS ($), THIS ($$) but mostly THIS ($$$). Once I became a dry shampoo addict, I started seeing my color fade much less. Obviously the less you’re washing, the less you’re fading.
  9. Every redhaired mermaid needs an ionic dryer. I use the Elchim 2001. I’ve used it forever and it’s my favorite all around. I won’t preach about the benefits of ionic dryers becuase I already did that recently RIGHT HERE.

In case we’ve never met or you’re just starting to follow TBD, I’m a redhead too, thanks to the powers of pigment. I’m also a hairstylist/colorist. As a professional, we have access to so many great things and I just wanted to share my personal favorites. If you have any tips or products that you’re obsessed with, I would LOVE for you to list them down below in the comments. We always love to hear what you’ve been using and how it’s working for you.

My last words of advice are… Always make sure you give red hair color a chance to stick. It took me about 4 rounds before my red stopped fading so much, mostly because I was blonde before. Don’t expect to go from lighter hair colors to red with no fading the first time, or even the second. Be realistic about it. Also, if you’re going red go through types of red (USE THIS POST IF YOU WANT!) with your colorist. It’s best to be on the same page about which red is which. Don’t be embarassed to take pictures with you! We love it.

TBD + LONDON LUXE

in partnership with Vidal Sassoon Pro Series // London Luxe

Adding vibrant, rich colors to your hair is always insane amounts of fun and we’re no strangers to experimenting with pretty colors around here. Not all of us can pull off our favorite shade of purple or blue all-over due to school or work, but there’s always a solution! Recently we reunited with our friends at Vidal Sassoon Pro Series and they’re launching some bold new boxes of at-home that include shades like “Midnight Muse Blue“, “London Lilac” + “Runway Red“. Um, yes please. We took a lil note from the always on-point, Kylie Jenner, and decided to play up the idea of having some hidden hues underneath. We thought it would be fun to do a tutorial on getting that look because let’s face it, while we encourage everyone to be as BOLD as possible, you could hide this at even the most conservative 9 to 5! Here’s how we did it…

 

  1. Clip all of your hair up into a bun. Put a cape or old (or dark) towel over your shoulders. Add a berrier of petroleum jelly around your lower hairline to keep your skin from staining.
  2. Create a triangle section in the back of your head as you see in photo number 2. It’s easiest if you part the hair down the center from your front hairline all the way to the nape of your neck. Then go back and take a half triangle from each side of the part as you see above.
  3. Always, always, always wear your protective gloves while using hair color! Inside the box you’ll find professional gloves, not those janky cheap ones that fall apart.
  4. Take out all of the Vidal Sassoon Pro Series color contents from the box. There will be containers labeled 1, 2 + 3.
  5. Take the #1 tube and mix it into the #2 bottle. Empty the entire tube into the bottle!
  6. Now shake, shake, shake!
  7. Grab a hand mirror or a compact so that you can see the back (if you’re not having someone help you, which could be both fun AND smart)!
  8. Put some color at the root of your triangle section and start combing it in with a plastic comb. Using a comb makes it easy to get the triangle section right. It doesn’t have to be perfect but the cleaner the better in our opinion.
  9. Once you get the root, pour some of the color on the middle and ends.
  10. Work it through with your fingers.
  11. It was really fun to watch it change from a pinkish/magenta hue to lilac. We have a feeling this will fade very nicely over time and just keep getting prettier! Once it’s ready, shampoo the color out. Lean over the sink and turn your head if possible to avoid getting color elsewhere. That’s what we did and it seemed to work really well. Run the #3 tube through the hair for extra shimmer + major shine.
  12. Blow dry or air dry your hair, as you please. You won’t see the color when your hair is down or in a low pony or bun, but once you put it up high, you get the full effect. We love adding some sweet accessories to this, as you can tell.

If you have darker hair this color looks beautiful. And if you want that extra pop, go into the salon and ask your colorist to have this section subtly pre-lightened. That’s what we did for the photo below. It didn’t need much, and you definitely don’t need to bleach it out to blonde, but for the color to be bold you’ll want to take the extra step.

Overall, we’re in love with the color and we’ve never seen anything like London Lilac on the shelves before. Our favorite thing was that the hair feels glossy + soft. If you try out the Vidal Sassoon Pro Series London Luxe colors, we would LOVE to see it! Tag us in your photo @thebeautydept on instagram, please!

But more importantly, Vidal Sassoon Pro Series is holding an AMAZING color contest for this launch which you should look at right HERE. Wanna go to London? Want $4,000? Um, WE DO TOO.

HAIR COLOR GUIDE (ASHY)

post/graphic design: Kristin Ess

For my next several hair posts, I’m going to be posting on color tones. In fact, I feel like we have a lot to talk about with color in general. A lot of you have asked in emails and comments if I could help you get a better understanding of color tones, so we’re going to do just that. We’ll start with ashy tones, then we’ll go into neutrals, warm neutrals, golds, warm golds, subtle hints of red, and then all red tones.

ASHE TONES: First thing I want to tell you is that tone has nothing to do with lightness or darkness. Look at the grid of photos above. Do you see what they all have in common? It’s the smoky-looking silver-y sort of color. That’s what tone is. Doesn’t matter if the hair is super light or super dark because it’s just about the hue that the hair gives off. Here are a couple of things to keep in mind if you ever want to try ashe tones:

  • Who can wear it? The girl who’s skin is completely clean and clear! Any hints of redness from acne or rosacea will clash with ashy tones. If you have redness but you cover it well, you can still wear an ashy tone. Just know that when you wash your makeup off it may not be your favorite look. (Sorry, that’s real talk.)
  • Wait, ashy?? On purpose?? You’re probably wondering why anyone would want their hair to look smoky or muddy… some people hate it, some people love it. It’s just a personal preference. If you have the right skin tone, style your hair well and don’t let it look like a rat’s nest, ashy hair can be really beautiful.
  • Talk to a pro. Seriously– putting a warm glaze over your hair at home is one thing, but making an ashy tone look nice requires some mad skills that only a great colorist will have.
  • What can you wear with ashe toned hair? Monocromatic looks are my favorite with ashy hair. Try wearing all different shades of grey.
  • Makeup must: a pop of color on the lip. Icy hair color paired with a bright matte pink or orange lipstick can be stunnnnnnning. And it will keep you from looking too drab.
  • Be polished. With ashy hair you’ll want to put a little effort into your hair, styling-wise. If you have beautiful air-dried waves, that’s great, but if you don’t make sure to put a little effort into your hair. Ashy can tend to look dull so you have to OWN it! Become best friends with your curling iron.
  • Maintenance: Purple shampoo and a deep conditioner. Purple shampoo will help you maintain those silvery tones. And you must deep condition at least once a week to retain some shine on ashy hair.

Up next… Neutrals (it’s more exciting than it sounds!) xo

WATER COLOR HYDRATING HAIR MASQUE

Just when you think the rainbow and pastel tint trend is coming to a close, someone comes out with something like this and you just can’t wait to get your hands on it. It’s pretty safe to say that most of us got our hair color fix from HAIR CHALKING last year. And though hair chalks are really fun, they can be a bit drying because they’re made from a pigmented powder. This year we’re about to flip the script and get our color on using conditioner. The concept is nothing new– as you may know we were obsessed with the color conditioners by Davines, but there was really only one shade that made a major splash and that was PINK.! Luckily, WATER COLOR HYDRATING HAIR MASQUE has come out with a gorgeous array of pretty pigmented conditioners. I’ve tried them on a couple of clients over the past week and have loved each one so far. We mixed some of them together (like the yellow and seafoam to make mint) and they turned out amazing. For my girls with super light ends, I’ve added a little regular conditioner into my hands to make a hue that’s more pastel than pop. They’ve lasted about 2-5 shampoos and the big bonus– they don’t rub off on your clothes!! They work better if you have some lighter pieces in your hair but I was happy to see that “Ocean” showed up on brunette hair as well. Overall, these are getting the TBD stamp of approval for fun with color this summer!

 

Photos: (top) Zanita Morgan for Fashion Gone Rogue , (bottom) Naomi Yang for Vogue Taiwan