Posts Tagged ‘hair color’

DIY ROSE PINK HAIR + BRAID

photos/post: Kristin Ess

photos/post: Kristin Ess

You know what’s great about having highlights? If you’re feeling adventurous you can have a little fun by changing up the tone temporarily! This isn’t new news but I often get asked what my favorite formulas are for a hint of tone, not a full-blown pink or lavender, but just a whisper of color. I thought I would share a couple with you guys so you can have a pretty rose pink braid over a weekend! When you add just a teeny tint of these colors, they fade out very quickly when you shampoo!

pink champagne fishtail bubble braid department

When my clients do this at home, I usually take a look at their hair and formulate based on the lightness of their hair/highlights. Since I can’t see the lightness of each of your highlights, I’m giving you ratios of color instead and it will be up to you (and perhaps your colorist) to decide on how much to dilute your formula.

  1. FOR ROSE TONE: 2 parts pink, 1 part puple/lavender
  2. FOR CHAMPAGNE TONE:  1 part pink, 1 part coral or orange, 1 part purple/lavender

Here are my favorite ways things to use at home…

If you want to do it by way of conditioner instead of color, try these. A lot of my clients use these and love them! They’re about $30 each and you will get many uses out of each jar. Use one or mix them together…

If you prefer an actual temporary color (aka: something with a little more longevity, but still very temporary) try these…

BE SURE TO DILUTE THE ION AND MANIC PANIC WITH THEIR OWN CLEAR ADDITIVES TO MAKE THEM MORE TEMPORARY AND LESS PIGMENTED!

And if it’s this gorgeous braid you’re after… here’s the breakdown!

champagne and rose colored braid hair the beauty department

Are you into these super subtle tones? Have you ever colored over your highlights with a color conditioner or diluted pastel? If so tell us what you used and what you did or didn’t love about it! Share the knowlege! xx

COLOR TALK: DEPTH

photos/post: Kristin Ess

photos/post: Kristin Ess

We don’t usually go into heavy detail about hair color around here because TBD isn’t a website geared toward industry pros (although I know some of you are, hey hunnies!!), but lately I’ve had a lot of people asking me about how to get more natural looking depth, contrast, color variation, whatever you personally like to call it. You sometimes will lose natural looking contrast over time, depending on the way your colorist does highlights. Adding some lowlights in between your highlights is one way to go but occasionally I see a new client and I just need to “start over”. I do that in 3 steps: coloring most of the hair back to it’s natural color, doing a fresh highlight, and then toning. If you feel like you’ve just lost that natural look and your hair is starting to look too solid for your liking, ask your colorist if you’d be a good candidate for this!

Who’s a candidate for this process?

  • someone who is a new client that comes in with wayyyy too many colors and tones from various processes.
  • someone who has been getting a base color + highlights (double process) who wants to return to a more natural look.
  • someone who has been in for repeated highlight appointments but never lowlights, losing contrast/color variation through the ends over time.
  • someone wanting a complete change of color, something that looks more natural.
  • someone who does not have overprocessed, weakened or broken hair.

The process:

  • I evaluate my clients hair. Emily (above) had a very heavy root growing in when I met her. She had multiple rounds of balayage in a short period of time.
  • I put some of her blondest and any weakened/delicate pieces into foils with a conditioner so I didn’t have to re-lift those. Those were mostly in front.
  • I colored the rest of her hair back to her natural color.
  • I blowdried that and then did my normal highlight over that adding Olaplex to my formula for additional insurance that she wouldn’t get any breakage.
  • I toned the hair to give it some glossy shine and to remove any unwanted warmth.

Things you should/shouldn’t do:

  • DO Make a consultation appointment with your hairstylist. Talk it over and look through photos together.
  • DO Ask them if going back to something close to your natural color and then re-highlighting would be okay for you. You want to make sure your hair is in good enough condition to handle the process. (Luckily with the advancements in color + Olaplex, this process isn’t necessarily hard on your hair the way it used to be, but still get the advice of a pro.)
  • DO Book and plan accordingly. If you’re going to do this process, just know it will take a little extra time. Make sure both you and your hairstylist have enough time to do it!
  • DON’T try this at home. I know there are some people who do a base color or even a mini highlight at home. This is not something I would suggest. It’s complicated and there are too many risks involved in doing this yourself. Leave this one to a pro.

Here is Emily’s hair curled and in the sunshine. If you want to know about these gorgeous waves, you can find the tutorial right HERE!

best beach waves ever the beauty dept

BLONDE HAIR + ROOTS

photos/post: Kristin Ess

“You look so good with blonde hair and black roots, it’s like not even funny.” Favorite line from Romy + Michelle, but the compliment doesn’t quite translate to real life.

Why is it that overnight your hair goes from looking cool with a little bit of root to looking insane and borderline trashy?? Unfortunately, you can’t typically get a color appointment the next day. So I want to throw out some things you can do to conceal or use the root to your advantage!

BRAIDING. Braids look 10x more edgy on blonde hair with roots, in my opinion. Visit your local braid bar or salon and find a great braider! Get those tiny side braids (seen below) or that french fishtail you’ve always wanted to try if you’re sporting roots and have to go to an event! Don’t be afraid to ask for something a little edgy. Take some pinterest photos with you! If you don’t think you can pull off edgy, do something pretty. Pretty still looks amazing with a bit of root.

COLORED DRY SHAMPOO. If I go to a shoot or do a client headed to a red carpet, I always have some of THESE LITTLE SPRAYS by Bumble in my kit (I usually get the travel size because I only use them for root touch ups). They make them for blondes, brunettes and redheads, too! To conceal roots on blonde hair, I use the blonde and white sprays, layering one on top of the other if necessary depending on the lightness. I layer more white on top if the hair is platinum and a little less if it’s a vanilla or golden blonde shade.

BLOWDRYING. Add a touch of mousse or volumizing spray to the root and flip your head upside down while drying for a minute or two. Getting the hair up and off your scalp will help conceal the root just a little more. The flatter the hair lays on top, the more obvious the root becomes. HAIR FLIPS are KEY here!

GO NATURALLY CURLY. If  you have blonde hair and curls, you know that wearing it curly will help conceal the length of the root. Think SJP naturally curly hair. You could never tell if her roots were an inch or three inches. The solid line at the root gets diffused by the curly texture of the hair and actually looks amazing with some depth. If you’re a curly blonde girl, you’re lucky! The shrinkage will also create the illusion that the root is shorter than it is when it’s stretched out.

EVERYDAY WAVES. Get familiar with a simple curl technique like THIS ONE! Wearing your hair super straight will only enhance the look of the dark roots. Throw a little wave in and give it some texture.

MAKE AN APPOINTMENT BEFORE YOU LEAVE. Best way to avoid a last minute “please I’m begging you to squeeze me in because my roots are insane and I have to go to a thing” emergency is to pre-book when you’re leaving the salon. Talk to your hairstylist and see what he/she thinks about how often you should get touched up. I usually recommend 4-5 weeks for bleach and tone, 6-12 weeks for anyone lighter, depending on the contrast from their natural color to the new color. Make that next appointment before you walk out! Especially if blonde hair with black roots just creeps up on you!

the beauty dept hiding your roots

KEEP RED HAIR FROM FADING

Post: Kristin Ess, top photo by Kristin Ess, bottom photos Kristin Ess, Angela Kohler + Tyler Jennings

MERMAID ALERT. Hands down the most frequent question I get asked when I meet people for the first time is how I keep my red hair so bright. Everyone looks at you when you’re a hair colorist as if you’re holding out on some mega-secret that’s finally going to crack the case on color fading. The truth is, there’s a whole list of secrets! There not just one magic potion to pour on your head. If there was, I would own it by now and I would share it with you right here. I’ve written about red hair color on TBD before as a blogger, but now I want to write from the perspective of a fellow redhead. I could just list off a bunch of color safe shampoos but there are plenty of color shampoo roundups online, right? Instead I’m going to give you a rundown of the things I do and things I don’t do to keep my hair the brightest! These are all tips that I know work because over the last decade I’ve been every single shade of roja and I’ve taken lots of notes. Here are my top 10 ways that I keep my un-natural (but totally natural) red hair on point…

  1. I have a custom conditioner made. You have to find a Davines salon and get a pro to make you one, but it’s worth it. HERE is a salon locator. So many conditioners out there for redheads are off on their tone. They’re either too pink or too yellow or too translucent. Trust me on this. Find a salon and let them mix your exact shade.
  2. Cool water washing isn’t a myth. In the winter time, I will even knock up the heater temp in the bathroom just so I can handle the cooler water setting. It doesn’t need to be cold, it just shouldn’t be hot. Changing my water temperature did slow the fading and made my hair more reflective in the long run.
  3. Swimming in a chlorinated pool? NO. Hair exposed for long periods of time in the sun? NEVER. Just don’t do it. Not unless you plan on getting your color done within the next couple days. No… just no. I only swim in salt water or fresh water. If I get in a chlorinated pool, I just won’t put my hair in, end of story.
  4. Spray leave-In conditioner is a must. I always use THIS ONE because I’ve tried about a hundred and there’s not another one like it. It seals, protects and shines like the top of the Chrysler Building. If I leave on a trip without it, it’s the first thing I have to locate when I land.
  5. Permanent color, then gloss. So for my own formula, I have someone apply my root color first which is a cream-based permanent color, then I put another cream-based permanent color through the ends. And THEN I go the extra mile and gloss over that while at the shampoo bowl (after my color has been rinsed). It takes about 20-25 minutes and it’s a similar process to a deep conditioning treatment. My hair used to fade like crazy when I didn’t put a gloss over the permanent color. I attribute most of my current vibrance to glossing over the regular cream-based color. You’re definitely going to get charged for that at the salon, but it’s not insanely expensive and it isn’t sold to people without a license. I prefer glossing my hair with Shades EQ which is from Redken. Ask your colorist or find a Redken salon HERE.
  6. Glosses in between colors. Again, it takes the same time as a deep conditioner so prioritize! I do my roots every 2 1/2-3 months, so I find a time right smack in the middle of my color appointments to get glossed. Again, I gloss with the same Shades EQ formula as before.
  7. I definitely keep blowdrying to a minimum. I’m not saying I skip blowdrying because my hair has strong wave/frizz and needs to be blown out, I just wash less (see next tip!). I’ve never done my own scientific study on this, but I know from experience that running hot air into my red locks on the daily is a no.
  8. Invest in a great dry shampoo. My favorites are THIS ($), THIS ($$) but mostly THIS ($$$). Once I became a dry shampoo addict, I started seeing my color fade much less. Obviously the less you’re washing, the less you’re fading.
  9. Every redhaired mermaid needs an ionic dryer. I use the Elchim 2001. I’ve used it forever and it’s my favorite all around. I won’t preach about the benefits of ionic dryers becuase I already did that recently RIGHT HERE.

In case we’ve never met or you’re just starting to follow TBD, I’m a redhead too, thanks to the powers of pigment. I’m also a hairstylist/colorist. As a professional, we have access to so many great things and I just wanted to share my personal favorites. If you have any tips or products that you’re obsessed with, I would LOVE for you to list them down below in the comments. We always love to hear what you’ve been using and how it’s working for you.

My last words of advice are… Always make sure you give red hair color a chance to stick. It took me about 4 rounds before my red stopped fading so much, mostly because I was blonde before. Don’t expect to go from lighter hair colors to red with no fading the first time, or even the second. Be realistic about it. Also, if you’re going red go through types of red (USE THIS POST IF YOU WANT!) with your colorist. It’s best to be on the same page about which red is which. Don’t be embarassed to take pictures with you! We love it.