Posts Tagged ‘hair color’

KEEP RED HAIR FROM FADING

Post: Kristin Ess, top photo by Kristin Ess, bottom photos Kristin Ess, Angela Kohler + Tyler Jennings

MERMAID ALERT. Hands down the most frequent question I get asked when I meet people for the first time is how I keep my red hair so bright. Everyone looks at you when you’re a hair colorist as if you’re holding out on some mega-secret that’s finally going to crack the case on color fading. The truth is, there’s a whole list of secrets! There not just one magic potion to pour on your head. If there was, I would own it by now and I would share it with you right here. I’ve written about red hair color on TBD before as a blogger, but now I want to write from the perspective of a fellow redhead. I could just list off a bunch of color safe shampoos but there are plenty of color shampoo roundups online, right? Instead I’m going to give you a rundown of the things I do and things I don’t do to keep my hair the brightest! These are all tips that I know work because over the last decade I’ve been every single shade of roja and I’ve taken lots of notes. Here are my top 10 ways that I keep my un-natural (but totally natural) red hair on point…

  1. I have a custom conditioner made. You have to find a Davines salon and get a pro to make you one, but it’s worth it. HERE is a salon locator. So many conditioners out there for redheads are off on their tone. They’re either too pink or too yellow or too translucent. Trust me on this. Find a salon and let them mix your exact shade.
  2. Cool water washing isn’t a myth. In the winter time, I will even knock up the heater temp in the bathroom just so I can handle the cooler water setting. It doesn’t need to be cold, it just shouldn’t be hot. Changing my water temperature did slow the fading and made my hair more reflective in the long run.
  3. Swimming in a chlorinated pool? NO. Hair exposed for long periods of time in the sun? NEVER. Just don’t do it. Not unless you plan on getting your color done within the next couple days. No… just no. I only swim in salt water or fresh water. If I get in a chlorinated pool, I just won’t put my hair in, end of story.
  4. Spray leave-In conditioner is a must. I always use THIS ONE because I’ve tried about a hundred and there’s not another one like it. It seals, protects and shines like the top of the Chrysler Building. If I leave on a trip without it, it’s the first thing I have to locate when I land.
  5. Permanent color, then gloss. So for my own formula, I have someone apply my root color first which is a cream-based permanent color, then I put another cream-based permanent color through the ends. And THEN I go the extra mile and gloss over that while at the shampoo bowl (after my color has been rinsed). It takes about 20-25 minutes and it’s a similar process to a deep conditioning treatment. My hair used to fade like crazy when I didn’t put a gloss over the permanent color. I attribute most of my current vibrance to glossing over the regular cream-based color. You’re definitely going to get charged for that at the salon, but it’s not insanely expensive and it isn’t sold to people without a license. I prefer glossing my hair with Shades EQ which is from Redken. Ask your colorist or find a Redken salon HERE.
  6. Glosses in between colors. Again, it takes the same time as a deep conditioner so prioritize! I do my roots every 2 1/2-3 months, so I find a time right smack in the middle of my color appointments to get glossed. Again, I gloss with the same Shades EQ formula as before.
  7. I definitely keep blowdrying to a minimum. I’m not saying I skip blowdrying because my hair has strong wave/frizz and needs to be blown out, I just wash less (see next tip!). I’ve never done my own scientific study on this, but I know from experience that running hot air into my red locks on the daily is a no.
  8. Invest in a great dry shampoo. My favorites are THIS ($), THIS ($$) but mostly THIS ($$$). Once I became a dry shampoo addict, I started seeing my color fade much less. Obviously the less you’re washing, the less you’re fading.
  9. Every redhaired mermaid needs an ionic dryer. I use the Elchim 2001. I’ve used it forever and it’s my favorite all around. I won’t preach about the benefits of ionic dryers becuase I already did that recently RIGHT HERE.

In case we’ve never met or you’re just starting to follow TBD, I’m a redhead too, thanks to the powers of pigment. I’m also a hairstylist/colorist. As a professional, we have access to so many great things and I just wanted to share my personal favorites. If you have any tips or products that you’re obsessed with, I would LOVE for you to list them down below in the comments. We always love to hear what you’ve been using and how it’s working for you.

My last words of advice are… Always make sure you give red hair color a chance to stick. It took me about 4 rounds before my red stopped fading so much, mostly because I was blonde before. Don’t expect to go from lighter hair colors to red with no fading the first time, or even the second. Be realistic about it. Also, if you’re going red go through types of red (USE THIS POST IF YOU WANT!) with your colorist. It’s best to be on the same page about which red is which. Don’t be embarassed to take pictures with you! We love it.

TBD + LONDON LUXE

in partnership with Vidal Sassoon Pro Series // London Luxe

Adding vibrant, rich colors to your hair is always insane amounts of fun and we’re no strangers to experimenting with pretty colors around here. Not all of us can pull off our favorite shade of purple or blue all-over due to school or work, but there’s always a solution! Recently we reunited with our friends at Vidal Sassoon Pro Series and they’re launching some bold new boxes of at-home that include shades like “Midnight Muse Blue“, “London Lilac” + “Runway Red“. Um, yes please. We took a lil note from the always on-point, Kylie Jenner, and decided to play up the idea of having some hidden hues underneath. We thought it would be fun to do a tutorial on getting that look because let’s face it, while we encourage everyone to be as BOLD as possible, you could hide this at even the most conservative 9 to 5! Here’s how we did it…

 

  1. Clip all of your hair up into a bun. Put a cape or old (or dark) towel over your shoulders. Add a berrier of petroleum jelly around your lower hairline to keep your skin from staining.
  2. Create a triangle section in the back of your head as you see in photo number 2. It’s easiest if you part the hair down the center from your front hairline all the way to the nape of your neck. Then go back and take a half triangle from each side of the part as you see above.
  3. Always, always, always wear your protective gloves while using hair color! Inside the box you’ll find professional gloves, not those janky cheap ones that fall apart.
  4. Take out all of the Vidal Sassoon Pro Series color contents from the box. There will be containers labeled 1, 2 + 3.
  5. Take the #1 tube and mix it into the #2 bottle. Empty the entire tube into the bottle!
  6. Now shake, shake, shake!
  7. Grab a hand mirror or a compact so that you can see the back (if you’re not having someone help you, which could be both fun AND smart)!
  8. Put some color at the root of your triangle section and start combing it in with a plastic comb. Using a comb makes it easy to get the triangle section right. It doesn’t have to be perfect but the cleaner the better in our opinion.
  9. Once you get the root, pour some of the color on the middle and ends.
  10. Work it through with your fingers.
  11. It was really fun to watch it change from a pinkish/magenta hue to lilac. We have a feeling this will fade very nicely over time and just keep getting prettier! Once it’s ready, shampoo the color out. Lean over the sink and turn your head if possible to avoid getting color elsewhere. That’s what we did and it seemed to work really well. Run the #3 tube through the hair for extra shimmer + major shine.
  12. Blow dry or air dry your hair, as you please. You won’t see the color when your hair is down or in a low pony or bun, but once you put it up high, you get the full effect. We love adding some sweet accessories to this, as you can tell.

If you have darker hair this color looks beautiful. And if you want that extra pop, go into the salon and ask your colorist to have this section subtly pre-lightened. That’s what we did for the photo below. It didn’t need much, and you definitely don’t need to bleach it out to blonde, but for the color to be bold you’ll want to take the extra step.

Overall, we’re in love with the color and we’ve never seen anything like London Lilac on the shelves before. Our favorite thing was that the hair feels glossy + soft. If you try out the Vidal Sassoon Pro Series London Luxe colors, we would LOVE to see it! Tag us in your photo @thebeautydept on instagram, please!

But more importantly, Vidal Sassoon Pro Series is holding an AMAZING color contest for this launch which you should look at right HERE. Wanna go to London? Want $4,000? Um, WE DO TOO.

HAIR COLOR GUIDE (WARM GOLD)

post/graphic design: Kristin Ess

We’re back with the rest of our hair color guides! The rest of these tone charts will be warm, warm, warm! We’re starting with warm golds– such decadent tones. They’re rich and sparkly and who doesn’t like that?? The best thing about warm gold tones is that they reflect a ton of light, so you often get a lot of shine when you go to a warm gold. The difference between gold and warm gold is subtle but definitely visible. Gold has more of a buttery yellow tone while warm golds are much richer. A lot of my clients want to go super light for the summer, so we go a little richer and a little darker and allow those highlights to hybernate during the winter. Here are a few things to keep in mind when trying out warm gold tones…

  • Your colorist can get you there with a gloss. Many of you may already have nice highlights that you paid a lot for an don’t want to get rid of. If you want to keep the pattern you have but just go a little darker and richer, ask your colorist if he/she can do a warmer gloss to kick off your “fall color”. Glosses are not permanent colors– they should be semi-permanent or demi-permanent, meaning they’ll fade out. Try glossing first to see if you like it and then move to a more permanent color if you love it!
  • Cut out purple shampoo. I always push for purple shampoo to keep gold tones in check… but this is where we draw the line. When you go to a warm gold tone, it’s time to pause on the purple shampoo. These gold tones are intentional and you don’t want to wash them away. Consider a color-preserving shampoo instead!
  • Who can wear warm gold? I’ve never seen a warm gold I didn’t like. There are various skin tones in the images above and they all manage to pull it off well. The only thing I would suggest is that if you have pink tones in your skin, try to minimize the pink and up the bronze! Bronze is much more complimentary to warm gold toned hair.
  • How light or dark? Warm gold tones can be done on the lightest and the darkest hair colors. Even over blackest color of hair! If your hair is super dark, you’re going to notice it more when you’re in the sun than when you’re inside but it will definitely show up.

Next ones will be hints of red, and then the full range of reds!

HAIR COLOR GUIDE (GOLD)

POST/GRAPHIC DESIGN: KRISTIN ESS

And the award for most desired tone on the planet goes to… you guessed it. Gold hues are at the very top of everyones wish list when visiting their colorist or buying a box. Gold tones are just plain flattering to almost anyone with any skin tone. Gold tones don’t give off any red or orange tones. They’re perfectly warm but never brassy. Look at the photos above– you don’t see “yellow”, you see sun kissed golden tones. It should look as though you’ve been on a long vacation or perhaps as though you surf a lot. Good gold tones look like what I like to call “kid color”. Children often have these golden, natural highlights that are uneffected by years of hair coloring. Here are some things you should know if you’re wanting to be a golden girl…

  • Be clear on what you’re after. Everyone has a different idea of what gold means so if you’re going to the salon, take a bunch of photos for reference. Use words like “not brassy” “natural-looking” and “surfer girl hair”.
  • Do some good research! Speaking of reference photos, try looking up kid hair color for gold tone inspiration. When you search “kid hair color” on Pinterest and scroll, you get images like THIS, THIS and THIS, all of which show perfect gold tones.
  • Purple Shampoo once a week. You don’t want to cut all warm tones, but you definitely want to keep the brass out. If you generally shampoo every other day, then use purple shampoo once a week. If you’re a daily shampooer, do it every 3rd shampoo.
  • Gloss it up! Keep it shiny by glossing in between colors. Gold toned hair should sparkle! It will reflect so much more light if you gloss or glaze in between.
  • Who can wear it? Honestly, I’ve never met a girl who didn’t look great in gold tones as long as the color is not too light or dark for your skin tone.
  • Box Dyes. This is tricky. I’m going to try to keep it simple. We all have warm tones underneath our natural color– even ashy girls (there’s yellow + orange under there even though your don’t see it). If you put a box of color on your roots that says “gold”, you’re probably going to get a brassy result. Instead try using a neutral box color. It will bring out those warm tones hiding inside and leave you with golden tones. Always account for the color that you don’t see inside the hair shaft. I think I should do a whole post on this…

Stay tuned for warm golds and then reds!