Posts Tagged ‘eyes’

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TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

Now that you’ve all nailed the cat eye, why not try lining your liner?

TOOLS:


  • Your Favorite Colored Liquid Liner: The best ones that I’ve found are Lime Crime Uniliners and MAKE UP FOR EVER Aqua Liners because they’re incredibly pigmented. The Uniliners have a fine brush while the Aqua Liners have more of a felt tip.

LIQUID + LIQUID:

  1. Line the lash line with the liquid liner (start at the inside corner and sweep the brush to the outside corner). Let it dry!
  2. Line directly above it with the other liquid liner color. If you accidentally go over the bottom color, don’t sweat it. Let it dry then go back along the bottom line with the first color.

PENCIL (TOP) + LIQUID (BOTTOM):

  1. Start with the pencil and trace it along the lashline. Then trace above it (with the same pencil) so you’ve made it much thicker. Technically, try to make it twice as thick because you’re about to go back and half it.
  2. Now trace the liquid liner along the lashline so it’s half the width of the thick line you just drew with the pencil.

PENCIL + PENCIL:

You can do either method above. I prefer to line the bottom color first and then switch colors and draw the top color above it, but you can draw a thick line with the top color then draw a thinner line along the bottom half of it. **Tip: Perfect the line with an angled liner brush to smooth it out before it sets!

 

WAKE UP!

TUTORIAL & PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

I’ve created tutorials on concealing dark circles, disguising bags and highlighting, but now let’s focus on bringing everyone’s attention to your eyes with this technique that brightens, highlights, conceals and illuminates! It’s quick and easy to do and only involves two products that you probably already have. Here’s how:

TOOLS:

  • Your Favorite Concealer: Choose one that is a half shade lighter than your foundation shade. I used Bobbi Brown Face Touch Up Stick because it’s intense enough to apply a thin layer so it won’t crease.
  • Your Favorite Liquid Highlighter: I used the iconic YSL Touche Eclat Radiant Touch in #3 on Alyssa above.

STEPS:

  1. You don’t have to follow the order I chose but I like to start with the inside corner and apply the concealer with a concealer brush or your finger. As we get older, the sides of the nose get darker and more indented/shadowed, so please never skip brightening there! Then continue from there along the undereye as mapped out above.
  2. Switch to the highlighter pen and make dots in the area shown above (above your cheekbone along the eye socket).
  3. Switch back to the concealer stick and apply it directly from the tube or with a concealer brush under the brow wing.
  4. Switch back to the highlighter pen and make dots above the brow as shown above.

5. Blend with your finger or an egg-shaped sponge.

6. Blend by tapping your ring finger along the dots and snapping them against your thumb in between taps to wipe away some of the excess.

7. Blend with your finger or an egg-shaped sponge.

8. Blend with the tap and snap method again like you did in step 6!

A LASHLINE STUDY

Post + Photography by Amy Nadine, Graphic Design by Eunice Chun

Today I’m bringing the spotlight to the lower lashline and the many options we have to define it! So I kept two variables constant (same eye and the same upper eye makeup) in order to really see the difference between six lower lashline applications. They are:

 

  • Bare — this is a great choice when you want all of the attention to go to the upper lid makeup (causing a “lifting” effect).
  • Mascara — coat the bottom lashes with a volumizing mascara. This option brings the lower lashes to life with nothing to compete against them.
  • Dotted line — take a velvet black pencil and draw a dot in between the lashes all the way across the lashline. This option makes it appear like you have more lashes than you really do, while also defining the line without anyone knowing you’re defining it.
  • Lined — start at the inner corner and drag the pencil across the lashline to the outer corner. This is the classic choice to define the lower lashline that women have done for decades.
  • Smudged — blend the line with a smudge brush using short strokes incrementally as you work your way across the line. This makes the line a little more “smoked” and less “lined”.
  • Inner Rimmed — gently pull the lower lid down with your finger for better access to the waterline then sweep the pencil back and forth along it until no spaces remain. This option closes up the eyes a little and makes them look smaller BUT makes them look much more intense ¬†and piercing.

It’s nice to see all the options lined up (pun intended!) to really study the different effect each application has. I personally like to switch it up depending on my mood, day v. night, my outfit, etc but I have clients who insist on leaving it bare and others who have to have it inner rimmed… while most are open to whatever balances out the upper lid. I’d love to know what you prefer so please vote below!

 

PERFECT EYE SHADOW BLENDING

Post + Photography by Amy Nadine, Graphic Design by Eunice Chun

I can’t stress this quick tip enough. Do not blend with the same brushes that you used to apply the shadow! Don’t do it! Hear my voice in your head and put the brush down, grab a clean unused one and blend with that one.

Why? Because when you create a smoky eye, you’re depositing a lot of product onto the lid, so how can you truly blend the shadow you’ve precisely placed if there’s still product on the brush? You’re just applying more, not blending. And smoky eyes are all about blending. Furthermore, you typically use more than one shade when creating a smoky eye (lighter on the lid and darker in the crease or The Reverse Smoky Smoke with the darker on the lid and the lighter in crease), so if you blend with the brush that you applied one of the colors with, the remaining product on the brush will spread over the entire area and create a sloppy and muddy look. What’s the point of taking the time to do something pretty to only undo it or not finish it properly?

OUR FAVORITE BLENDING BRUSHES:

STEPS:

  1. After you’ve finished your smoky eye, grab a clean, unused brush and blend all over by sweeping the brush back and forth in a windshield wiping motion then in smaller swirling motions, then again with bigger motions.
  2. Continue until there are no harsh edges.

If you don’t have a clean brush in your arsenal (you know who you are!), no worries, just put your laptop down and take a trip into your makeup bag and clean them so I can sleep tonight knowing our TBD readers clean their brushes regularly! Revisit my Brush Cleaning Tutorial if you need a refresher. Thank you!