Posts Tagged ‘eye liner’

AN INSIDE JOB

Most days, we leave the inner water line bare. If you’re not sure what the water line is, I’m referring to the area on your lower lid just above the roots of your lashes that touches the inside of your eye. And when I want to really make sure it’s bare, I clean up any mascara, eyeliner or shadow that found its way on it by sweeping a wet cotton swab across it.

But on a lot of occasions, it’s fun to define the water line.  And you have two options: you can go dark (black, burgundy, brown, navy, forest green) or light (white or nude). But for teaching purposes, I’ll break it down to black and white.

post design by eunice chun/photos: imaxtree.com, luca cannonieri & greg kessler

BLACK: This makes your eyes look really intense and piercing. The downside is it closes up the eye and makes it appear a little smaller, but who cares because it’s so striking! Using a black eyeshadow, kohl liner or kajal liner, gently pull the lower lid downward and fill in the line by moving the pencil back and forth or “stamping” the shadow brush as you move across. You can see our model demonstrate the technique in Step 5 of our Purple Reign video tutorial. Kajal liner is the most intense option as it looks a little like a grease paint, but it doesn’t last as long. For longevity, first use a pencil then follow with a black shadow to make it last. Do NOT use a liquid liner as most will burn and give you red eyes. And don’t forget to check your inner tear ducts throughout the night for black gook (I don’t know the proper term for eye booger… gross!) and quickly clean it up in the powder room with your pinky finger.

photos: michele morosi & gorunway.com

WHITE: This makes your eyes look bigger and more open. It was most popular in the Sixties and every now and then my clients and I like to finish a look with it. Using a white kohl pencil, again gently pull the lower lid downward and trace the water line back and forth.  Clean up any residue that might end up on your lashes by pulling it off with your fingers, then follow with mascara.

So remember, when you want your eye color to look really piercing, rim the inner waterline with a dark shade, and if you want to open up your eyes and make them look bigger, rim them with a light color.

XO, Amy Nadine

A QUARTET OF LINERS

photos + graphic design by kristin ess, post by amy nadine

Decisions decisions… there are so many options out there nowadays when it comes to lining our eyes, which is so great, but can be a little overwhelming too. Hopefully this will help a lot to find the right type, even though you don’t have to pick just one (I personally could never give up using the other three!). All four can be found at your local drug store, beauty supply or department store.

KOHL LINER: This is the original classic. It glides on with ease and now comes in metallic finishes as well as matte solids. Because of their consistency, kohl pencils are amazing for smudging with your finger or a cotton swab, creating less of a “line” and more of frame. Try to really get in there between the lashes and even into your waterline for a more piercing look. Choose this type for the expansive color options, a softer look, blendability and as the only liner type that is truly safe to rim your inner waterline. ** Tip: for a thin line, use the point of the pencil, holding it almost perpendicularly (90-degree angle) to your eye. For a thicker line, slant the pencil to a 45-degree angle, using more of the side of the tip of the pencil. Don’t be afraid to try holding your pencil at different angles — make-up is temporary and you can wipe it off and try again as many times as it takes for you to get the hang of it. Also, you can adjust the width by how much you sharpen the pencil, so for more precise lines, sharpen it as far as you can to create a true point, and for more of a smoked line, heat up the tip with a quick blast from your blow dryer then dull the point on the back of your hand.

LONGWEAR LINER: These liners are newer to the cosmetic world but almost every brand has caught up and offers one now.  They are usually self-sharpening and turn up from the bottom, so you don’t have control over how how sharp/dull the tip is, but in return, you get a defined eye that once set, won’t bleed, run or fade and will last for hours (hallelujah!). Like the kohl pencil, you’ll want to gently lift your upper lid up with your ring finger first to have greater access to your actual lash line, then drag the pencil back and forth in between your lashes. Once you’ve covered that area, go a little higher and line right above your lashes like you would with a typical liner then again along your bottom lash line if you so desire. You have 30 seconds or so to blend and smooth over the line to make sure it’s not jagged before it sets for the day.

LIQUID LINER: Liquid liners are the most intense and precise way to line your eyes with a straight line or to wing the line into a cat eye. Because the formula dries within five seconds, there isn’t a lot of room for error and this turns a lot of us away from even attempting it. But I promise you, like anything else that’s new and scary, if you just go for it and practice, you CAN master it! Especially when you realize that you can wet a pointed q-tip and easily correct any jags, taking off a lot of the pressure to make the line perfect on your first try. Liquid liners either come in a tiny container/pot with their own super skinny brushes or are “pens” that write like a felt-tip pen but instead with brush-hair tips. Both versions work beautifully but I would look for a waterproof formula so the liquid won’t feather or run. Watch Lauren’s Get Catty tutorial to see how light-handed you’ll want the pressure to be when you draw the lines.

SMUDGE POT: This little beauty, also known as a gel/cream liner, came on the scene around the mid-90’s as more of a grease paint and has been improving and evolving into formulas that wear for hours and come in an array of colors and finishes (matte and metallic). It usually comes with a little liner brush or you can invest in a longer liner brush that is pointed or angled. Pick this type of liner if you prefer using a brush over a pencil and desire a strong line that isn’t as intense as a liquid liner but more intense than a pencil. Like a liquid liner, I would use it only along the lash line but not inside on the water line because a lot of formulas burn and are for external use only. But once you find a brush that you love (and most likely it will be the one that comes with it!), this super user-friendly type of liner might become your favorite because you can paint on the line with ease and it won’t feather.

XO, Amy Nadine

GET THE LOOK

photo: usweekly, wireimage.com post designed by kristin ess

As you may know, our very own Lady Conrad attended the US Weekly party in Los Angeles recently. She wore the classic red lip and winged liner as well as her current favorite updo, the ballerina bun.

On your next big night out, try getting this fancy+fun look by combining all three tutorials!

XO Amy Nadine & Kristin Ess

ROSIE ROMANTIC

We love a pretty pink pop with no fuss! This “Rosie Romantic” tutorial shows you how to get this simple spring-y look, which is gorgeous for both day and night.

• Tools: foundation, rosy cream blush, rosy lip balm, brown eye liner pencil, black mascara, foundation brush or sponge, and small flat concealer brush (or you can use your fingers)

• Apply an even layer of foundation to your skin.

• Apply a rosy cream blush to the apples of your cheeks and blend with your finger tips.

• Apply a rosy lip balm to your lips.

• Line your lash line with a brown pencil and blend with your finger.

• Coat your top and bottom lashes with black mascara.

 

XO Amy Nadine