Posts Tagged ‘curly hair’

MAPPING OUT FLAT IRON WAVES

photos: kristin ess, post: jessica swanson

photos: kristin ess, post: jessica swanson

So, you can knock out a full set of curling wand waves with one gloved finger tied behind your back? You still had time to ace that smokey eye after finishing bestie’s pull-through braid for Prom? Girl, we know you’re always up for a challenge, so we’re presenting to you our fave flat iron wave tutorial. There’s something just right about the look… not too precious or coiled, with subtle movement for manes both long and short. There might be several versions of flat iron waves out there, but this one gives us life! Here’s how to make it happen:

Before beginning, we prepped towel-dried hair with THICKENING SPRAY, then blow dried straight. This thickening spray helps to create the right amount of texture and a soft, sustainable hold. Keep in mind that once you’ve nailed your technique, it can also be an ideal way to touch up air-dried waves, or can be worked in with OTHER waving techniques.

Before things get heated, take a few minutes to practice with a BEVELED FLAT IRON while it’s still turned off (uh, ps: it’s on SALE! and it’s never on sale!). It’s important that you get the hang of the motions before adding heat, as this trusty iron has only one temperature setting. You’ll want to hit each section only once or twice at the most to avoid heat damage. The beveled edges of the iron are crucial for creating smooth waves, and help to avoid creating kinks in the hair. If you need more guidance on the steps below, go check out our instagram post right here!

flat iron wave tutorial the beauty dept

  1. To begin, hold a section of hair out from your head, and insert the flat iron at a diagonal, just below your scalp. Your waves will have natural, realistic movement if they are created diagonally towards or away from your face, or a mixture of the two. Gently close the iron as you curve it up and back down to form an arc.
  2. Because these waves are created using heat and tension, you’ll need to use a flat finger to hold the form of the previous arc, while you pull in the opposite direction to make your next wave. If your hair tends to slip, use two fingers to scissor the section instead. The second bend will be going the opposite direction, as we are creating alternating peaks and valleys. Just below the first arc, bend the iron down towards your head, then curve back up and release.
  3. complete the wave pattern that now should be visible with another arc curving away from the head, holding the previous bend for tension. You may have more length to wave here, but on this LOB we have reached the finish line!
  4. Slowly tap through the ends instead of bending them inward or too far outward to create a cool, modern finish.

To add just the right level of soft hold and enhance waves, we added a light veil of SOFT BEACH WAVE SPRAY, which while pricey, is just straight up the best! They also have a travel size available if you’re the type to dip your toes first. To truly nail the final look above, try THIS little hair hack after you apply your beach wave spray.

You’re ready to roll out! But maybe hide how good you are at this? Your girls are going to swarm, no doubt.

Don’t forget to tag us when you work those waves! @thebeautydept on insta.

YOUR HAIR IS GOING ON VACATION & IT’S TAKING…

PHOTOS/POST: KRISTIN ESS

PHOTOS/POST: KRISTIN ESS

If you could only grab a hand full of things for your hair type before taking off on a trip, do you know what you’d grab? You might know your faves and must-haves right away. If you don’t know, here’s the guide I live by when traveling with my clients and also for myself. You can mix and match any of these lists if you fit into more than one category. But most importantly, once you know your list(s) you can easily fill a 3 ounce (or less) container with each one and not check a thing when you get to the airport. Here’s what I usually prioritize (other than styling tools obviously) for each hair type or need…
CURLY/KINKY
OUIDAD curl immersion cleansing co-wash
MURRAY’S coco-soft coconut oil
CONAIR dual sided wide-tooth comb
KINKY-CURLY knot today leave-in conditioner
NATURAL TEXTURE
SHEA MOISTURE high porosity moisture seal co-wash
KIEHL’S magic elixir hair oil
DESIGN ESSENTIALS almond + avocado moisturizing conditioner
GENERIC 3 oz plastic spray bottle
CONAIR dual sided wide-tooth comb
OLIVE OIL edge control
elastics and bobby pins
WAVY
KAPULUAN raw organic coconut oil
ORIBE apres beach spray
CONAIR wide tooth detangling comb
CARAVAN hair pins
FINE
KLORANE dry shampoo
SACHAJUAN ocean mist volumizing shampoo
ORIBE maximista thickening spray
SEXY HAIR spray and play harder strong hold hairspray
THICK/COARSE
SCUNCI no damage eastic ponytail holders
PHILIP B. anti-frizz serum
ORIBE gold lust hair oil
MIXED CHICKS deep conditioner
STRAIGHTENING
RUSK str8 anti-frizz anti-curl lotion
WELLA luxe hair oil
silk bonnet or pillowcase
GHD heat protectant spray
LOREAL ever sleek smoothing deep conditioner
HUMIDITY/TROPICAL
ORIBE gold lust hair oil
SCUNCI no damage ponytail holders
ORIBE impermeable anti-humectant
MISS JESSIE’S curly meringue
If you have anything to contribute to a category, please include the name, the category and a link in the comments below! Would love to hear your must haves for a minimal travel hair kit!

CO-WASHING // CLEANSING CONDITIONERS

TBDCoWashing

Graphic Design: Eunice Chun

Let’s have a lil chat about CO-WASHING, aka: “conditioner washing”. The first time anyone told me I should try washing my hair with a cleansing conditioner, I was like GIRL BYE. I’m a bubble loving froth queen so I was just not about to rub condtioner in my hair without shampooing. And I was certainly not going to believe that that’s going to leave me with anything but a hot greasy mess after blowdrying. Uh… Until I tried it. Let me tell you that I blew out my hair and it was (I swear) bouncier and fuller than usual. So then I was like– okay, beginner’s luck. My hair must have been cleaner than I thought to start. I did it again– same results. I kept thinking to myself– if this works so well then why doesn’t everyone do it?? I realized that just like me, most people probably want the bubbles. It’s just what we know. Bubbles mean there’s a cleaning agent and if there’s a cleaning agent, then there are less oils. And yes, while that’s true, it doesn’t mean that’s a good thing. After diving deeper into the actual science of hair for the last few years, I’ve realized how much we need to keep some of those natural oils (don’t vomit, it’s called sebum) on the scalp and in the hair. Sebum is hands down the greatest conditioner a girl can get. Better than the most expensive thing from the beauty supply or even the most natural organic oil you can find at a health food store. Using a cleansing conditioner will take the oils off the suface almost completely, but it will leave the good stuff on the inside so it can do it’s work to moisturize and strengthen from within.

Personally, I tried co-washing for the first time a couple years ago and anytime I see someone struggling with moisture or breakage or dull hair, I immediately chime in to tell them to try co-washing. It’s a hard sell but once you try it, you understand and you feel the difference. Each brand is going to have a different application suggestion, but I like to imagine my hair split into 4 equal sections– two in the front and two in the back. I take a couple pumps and rub it into my scalp, section by section. Then once it’s all in, I massage it into my scalp for a couple minutes, then rinse. But check the bottle for additional instructions.

CURLY, THICK, WAVY OR COARSE HAIR: No one benefits more from this that my curly girls. Co-washing is truly a must for anyone with curly hair, as curly hair naturally lacks moisture. Thick, coarse hair often needs some extra TLC in the moisture department as well. Wash your hair every 3-5 days (3 for coarse, thick and closer to 5 for curly girls) and use this every time.

FINE, STRAIGHT, LIGHTLY WAVY, OR LIMP HAIR: If you have finer or straight hair and you’re terrified to commit, try alternating first. You’ll at least be saving more of your oils than you are now. I have fine hair but a lot of it. I co-wash twice a week and regular wash once a week. And then in the summer, I like to alternate because my hair produces more oil when it’s hot out.

1. Ouidad Curl Co-Wash Low-Foam Cleansing Conditioner

2. Sofn’free GroHealthy Nothing But Cleansing Conditioner

3. WEN Lavender Cleansing Conditioner

4. Palmer’s Olive Oil Formula Cleansing Conditioner

5. L’Oreal EverCreme Cleansing Conditioner 

6. Renpure Solutions Cleansing Conditioner

7. Carol’s Daughter Hair Milk Co-Wash Cleansing Conditioner

8. Renpure Coconut Creme Cowash Cleansing Conditioner 

I know this is a lot for some, and take your time in convincing yourself to try it… but TRY IT. You will be shocked at how light and airy your hair feels after co-washing. There’s a cool new co-washing product coming out soon that I can’t wait to tell you about. But for now, tell us your co-washing experiences (or fears) in the comments below, and please include your hair type/texture! This is such a great topic to discuss…

AIR DRYING YOUR HAIR

 

PHOTOS + POST: KRISTIN ESS

PHOTOS + POST: KRISTIN ESS

Believe it or not there’s a lot more to air drying hair than just letting your hair dry……. in the air. There are steps you can take to make your air dried hair look pretty epic and it’s not as hard as you might think. Follow these tips and find the air drying product for your hair type down at the bottom!

air dry air drying hair the beauty department

  1. Use a WIDE TOOTH COMB to detangle while you’re in the shower or immediately after you get out. Don’t wait too long to comb through or your curl wave pattern will break up. Find your part (if you want one) and do a quick comb through.
  2. Pick your favorite product from the round up below for air drying! I have different favorites for different hair needs so be sure you’re using the one best suited for your own hair. (Here we’re using the new AIR DRY FOAM for which I added a shopping link down below and more info!)
  3. “Scrunch” the product of your choice into your hair. Be sure to deliver the right amount to the area where your hair needs it most– for example, if you want volume, scrunch a volume-focused product into the root and work your way to the ends. If you want to focus on moisture, start at the bottom where your hair may be the driest and work your way up using a moisture-focused product.
  4. A long time ago I told you guys about my favorite thing for curly hair– t-shirt drying. Use an old t-shirt to squeeze excess moisture out of the hair. Using a t-shirt instead of a towel is genius because the little loops from a towel can easily cause frizz whether you realize it or not! They’re like teeny tiny little combs and sometimes hairs stick to them as you scrunch, breaking up the curl.
  5. Always flip your head upside down and give it a little scrunch. By doing that you can avoid that “pasted down” look that is often a result of air drying. By flipping a scrunching you’re lifting the root off your head just a little. For more volume, do this a couple times as it dries.
  6. Continue scrunching from the bottom up as the hair dries. Not a ton, but just a couple times here and there to encourage the wave or curl.
  7. If you have “puffy hair”, and it tends to get wide or super frizzy, twist your hair into a loose bun for 10-20 minutes as you air dry. Then let it to continue drying. That should help contain some of that puffiness.
  8. At the end, add a good HAIR SERUM of your choice! Only if you feel like you need it! If you don’t, lucky you. Sometimes just for extra polishing, I’ll take a flat iron on low heat and just finish off my ends very lightly. Sounds silly because the point of this is air drying but if you’re going somewhere and you just want it a little more refined, seal down your ends with the lightest amount of heat. You’re still skipping heat styling on 90% of the hair.

Here are my favorites for each hair type, including the one we used up top!

the beauty department air drying

  1. R + CO CHIFFON This is more like a light leave in conditioning foam, in my opinion. I wasn’t expecting that the first time I used it. I thought it was going to be more like a regular mousse with a little hold. My hair didn’t have hold at all, it was just soft and bouncy. This is great for anyone needing additional softness when air drying. You can use this on straight, wavy or curly hair. Not going to do anything for puffy or frizzy hair, really.
  2. JOHN FRIEDA AIR DRY FOAM I loved this and it’s super affordable. It gives a very light hold and doesn’t feel heavy. Weightless foams are becoming very popular for air drying and this was the one we used up top. Kept the waves in and frizz out. May not be enough hold for curlier hair types though.
  3. LEONOR GREYL ECLAT NATUREL I’ve been using this stuff for years. I love this for over processed blondes and anyone with significant dryness. Natural oils are packed into this cream and it’s sooooooo great. It brings the most dead hair back to life. Major nourishment.
  4. SACHAJUAN OCEAN MIST Love this for exactly what you’d think. Beachy waves. Some ocean sprays have a lil too much grit for my liking, leaving the hair feeling like there’s a film on it. This doesn’t do that at all and it’s pretty light weight which works well on finer hair (as most ocean sprays do not).
  5. ORIBE CURL GLOSS Anybody air drying major curls should have this is their bathroom. It lasts a long time (which is important because it’s pretty pricey) but I love it SO much. Curly hair lacks moisture, and often lacks shine because of that. This brings back the shine in a way that just looks healthy, not wet and crunchy.
  6. SEBASTIAN WHIPPED CREAM This one is amazing for classic wavy hair and curly hair that needs more volume. It’s whipped and literally feels like whipped cream. It encourages waves and curls to get “bigger” but also feels moisturizing at the same time.
  7. LIVING PROOF CURL ENHANCING STYLING MOUSSE I like this for anyone who’s in between. So let’s say you have not-quite-wavy or not-quite curly hair. This curl enhancer will knock you into the next bracket because it actually help form stronger curl patterns.
  8. DR BRONNERS FAIR TRADE ORGANIC HAIR CREME Shout out to my organic, vegan- loving curly girls. This a cream formula made from organic natural ingredients. I love it for anyone who needs to “take it down a notch” with the width of their hair. If you hair gets big and wide, work some of this in from root to ends and see it settle. The weight doesn’t over-power. It just helps to calm excess volume. Also, feels like you’ve had conditioner in your hair the whole time when you go to rinse it out.
  9. ORIBE GEL SERUM For those of you who need MORE! If you already have wave or curl and you want it big big big, use some gel serum. I love this for wild, untamed crazy curls. It’s going to give you a MAD curly hair flip.
  10. SEBASTIAN POTION 9 I’ve been using this since I was a kid and I’ve used it on many hair types. It’s great for the slightest hold and for adding shine and moisture. I don’t use it every time I shampoo, just once a week or so when my fine but very thick hair feels like it needs a little extra moisture and I don’t have time to do a treatment!

Do you have any favorites for air drying?