Posts Tagged ‘contour’

STROBING 101

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

You might have noticed that the beauty world has become obsessed with Strobing! It’s hot right now, even though it’s actually been around for ages. Basically strobing is just highlighting areas that you want the light to hit and reflect off of, bringing those features forward and stealing all of the attention. Typically we pair highlighting with contouring (revisit my Highlight & Contour Tutorial for more) but it’s quite beautiful on its own. Especially in the Summer months when we let our skin glow and come alive. So let’s take a moment to walk through how I like to do it!

TOOLS:

STEPS:

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Using your finger with a cream/fluid or directly from the stick, swipe it:

  1. just along the top of your cheekbones,
  2. above your browbones (the brow frames the eye, so it’s a great place to draw attention to),
  3. down the center of the nose in a straight line (this just reinforces that your nose isn’t flat and protrudes away from your face like your cheekbones and browbones do),
  4. just above your cupid’s bow (this adds dimension to make your upper lip look like it is slightly fuller and protrudes more),
  5. just below your bottom lip (your bringing the area that is receding in between your bottom lip and your chin forward).

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Then blend and buff it in with the brush or the sponge! And tag us on Instagram or comment below with your favorite strobing products!

QUICK TIP: CONTOURING

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

Over the last few years, contouring has become mainstream after decades of being a secret weapon that makeup artists learned in school to add dimensions back to the face after creating a blank canvas with foundation. I’m not gonna lie, it has gotten a little extreme for my taste but if you’re reading this here, your taste is a little more natural like mine. Anyway, today we’re sharing a contouring must that a lot of people don’t know about! When you sculpt your cheeks, it’s prettiest if you don’t bring the contour shading too far in. Why not? Because it ages you in a very unflattering way. We want to hollow out our cheeks but we need the suppleness of the apples to look healthy and young! And the easiest way to achieve this is to imagine a line from the end of your brow straight down your cheek then simply don’t cross it. Some makeup artists place the line at the arch of the brow, but my mentor and idol Mary Greenwell taught me one afternoon in Madrid never  to bring it in that far, and I agree. And you don’t have to hold the brush up every time! Quickly you’ll be able to eye it. Here’s how:

TOOLS:

  • Your Favorite Contour Cream — I was so excited when this cream palette came out and it’s $40 off right now!
  • or Your Favorite Contour Powder — This iconic contour & highlighting palette has everything you’ll ever need in shades that work gorgeously on most skin tones; while this duo works well with your budget!
  • A Flat-Headed Contour Brush — I love this dual-ended slenderizer brush that really presses the product into the skin.
  • A Densely-Packed Blush Brush — the wavy soft fibers of this brush makes it like nothing you’ve ever used before. The best!

STEPS:

  1. Hold a brush or a pen/pencil perpendicularly straight down from the end of your brow as demonstrated with Lacy above. Make a mental note where it crosses your cheek area. If you need more than a mental image, you can use your non-dominant hand to hold the brush in place while you use your dominant hand to contour, but it doesn’t have to be exact or anything, so just eye it and you’re good.
  2. Now that you know how far to bring it, follow the hollow of your cheek (just under the cheekbone) inward and stop where the imaginary line is.
  3. Go back in the other direction and bring it all the way to the ear area so there isn’t a blank space there.
  4. Switch to the unused brush and blend it in by gently swirling over it until it’s half the intensity it was originally.

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MAKEUP BRUSH UP

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

I’ve spent 12 years building the perfect makeup kit to use on my celebrity clients. It’s super streamlined into two small, eclectic hat boxes on rollers (seen here!), and to make it into my kit, each item has to be the best of the best. So I spend my time curating what’s out there and when something comes along that performs better than what I’m currently using, I swap it out. Here are the current winners that I went so crazy over, I couldn’t replace the previous ones fast enough!

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FACE:

  • Liquid Foundation Brush — this splurge is my most favorite liquid foundation brush I’ve ever found. The bristles are dense but incredibly soft and movable instead of stiff and hard like a lot of foundation brushes. This save rocks too.
  • Powder Foundation Brush — when I got my hands on this splurge last week, I couldn’t stop playing with it! Its flat head is mega wide, covering a lot of area as it blends. This save covers a lot of surface area too.
  • Cream Foundation Brush — this divine one was especially formulated to softly buff cream foundation into the skin instead of sitting on top of it.
  • Concealer Brush — if you’re an avid TBD reader, you know I’ve been obsessed with this 3DHD concealer brush for awhile now because its steeple-like head can sneak into the contours of your eyes (for dark circles) and around your nose (for redness) like no other brush out there.
  • Powder Brush — This sculpting brush is actually a contour and highlight brush for this Bronze & Go Palette but I’ve been using it for months as a powder brush on my girls because I like to target powder just the T-zone and a big powder brush can’t get into the crevices as well.

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CONTOUR & HIGHLIGHT:

  • Cream Contour & Highlight Brush — contouring and highlighting has really taken hold over the last year thanks to YouTube and social media that all of the brands have taken notice and come out with amazing products and matching brushes to get the job done. Believe me, I’ve tried them all. And this dual-ended one is my favorite because the contour side is super long and narrow to really follow the hollow of your cheek while the highlight side is angled to glide over areas that you want to catch the light. And considering you get two brushes in one, it’s a fair price to me.
  • Powder Contour Brush — I love this angled contour brush because I’ve found the fluffier the brush, the less muddy the contour looks (nothing is worse!).
  • Powder Highlight Brush — This ultra-wide fan brush deposits just the right amount of highlighting powder to bring your face to life. Always use a fan brush for highlighting! It’s a game changer.

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BLUSH:

  • Powder Blush Brush — Okay, this one is the creme-de-la-creme of all the blush brushes out there. You use it once and you’ll feel why. It’s one of those things that hard to explain, but next time you’re at the department store, walk up to the counter and try it for yourself. It’s heaven on a stick! It’s a splurge though so if you don’t want to make that kind of an investment yet, try this stylish save.
  • Cream Blush Brush — I like a densely-packed angled contour brush for cream blushes (with shorter bristles and way less fluffy than the one I use for powder contouring).

Keep you brushes clean with my DIY Natural Brush Cleaning tutorial and whenever you get your hands on a new amazing brush, please let us know in the comments below! And if you liked this post, I can go back into my kit and pull out my new favorite eye and brow brushes and share them with you too!

BLUSH + CONTOUR CHEAT SHEET

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

There are two great reasons why you should take a second and try this technique to find your cheekbones! First, it shows you where the bone is so you know where to sweep the contour (directly underneath to “support” the bone and create a hollow) and where to swirl the blush (directly on top). And second, it shows you the angle of your cheekbone so you know the direction to apply it. Good stuff! Here’s how:

TOOLS:

STEPS:

  1.  Grab the pencil and place it along your cheek. Roll it up and down with your fingers flattened until you feel where the cheekbone is. Turn the pencil until it is exactly the same angle as the bone then roll it just below the bone so it’s touching it but just under it. That’s the “hollow” of your cheek and where your contour should go. The blush goes directly along the cheekbone (either only on your apple or along the cheekbone itself; I’ll post a comparison study of the two next week!). Take a mental photograph of the pencil’s placement and angle. Suck in your cheeks if that helps you see it as well. Press your thumb along the bone to really feel it too. My cheekbones (and most of my clients’) came in at 26. Until then, these techniques will help you find them.
  2. Follow the hollow by sweeping the contour cream or powder just underneath the cheekbone along the angle that you discovered with the pencil. as demonstrated by Chloe above. I always swirl the brush on the back of my hand after dipping it in the product to thin and even it out before I ever let it go near my face because nothing’s worse than a muddy contour!
  3. Switch to the blush brush and dip it in the blush. If it’s a cream blush, swirl it on the back of your hand, if it’s a powder blush, give it a couple taps against the counter to get rid of any excess. Swirl and stamp the brush along the cheekbone, just above the contour.