Posts Tagged ‘brush’

APPLES VS. CHEEKBONES

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

We were just curious… do you apply your blush to the apples of your cheeks or your cheekbones? It’s a preference thing obviously, but it creates a different outcome, even if it’s subtle. I have clients that only want blush on the apples of their cheeks and others that want only want it high on their cheekbones. Here’s the difference: if you have strong cheekbones with a deep hollow in the cheeks, applying blush only to the apples softens the face and makes it less angular, while applying it only to the cheekbones reinforces the angles. If you have a rounder face, applying blush only along the cheekbones helps contour it and make it appear less round, while applying it only to the apples will reinforce the roundness. Make sense? Most of us don’t have super angular faces, so the cheekbone route is a good one to take. Otherwise, it can be a mood thing… how you feel each day and how you want to play with your face shape! Either way, just stay high on either, meaning apply the blush on the upper half of the apples or the upper part of the cheekbones for the most flattering looks.

TBD SPLURGES & SAVES:

  • Favorite Cream Blushes: We die over this one and we die over the price of this one!
  • Favorite Cream Blush Brushes: This one is a staple in my kit and this one fits my budget.
  • Favorite Powder Blushes: This one has the prettiest texture and color payoff and this one gives you instant cheekbones at an amazing price.
  • Favorite Powder Blush Brushes: I’ve only used this one to apply powder brush for at least five years now. This one is by far the best quality of the inexpensive ones out there.

APPLES:

Smile in the mirror so your apples pop out. Hold the smile while you swirl the blush along the top half of it. Make sure not to go too close to your nose and stay directly on the apple.

CHEEKBONES:

Suck in your cheeks so your cheekbones pop out. Sweep the blush along the top side of it. Make sure not to go too close to your eyes and stay directly on the cheekbone.

TIPS FOR BOTH:

  • When you load up your brush in the blush, don’t ever go directly from the product to the face. If it’s a powder blush, first tap off the excess against the compact or against your countertop. If it’s a cream blush, first swirl it on the back of your hand to smooth it out and eliminate the excess.
  • Choose a cream blush if you like to blush before your powder, or if you don’t powder at all. It creates a natural dewy glow.
  • Choose a powder blush if you use mineral powder foundation or if you like to powder before you apply blush.
  • If you want it to last for hours, use both! Apply cream blush first, then apply powder blush on top to set it.

BLUSH + CONTOUR CHEAT SHEET

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

There are two great reasons why you should take a second and try this technique to find your cheekbones! First, it shows you where the bone is so you know where to sweep the contour (directly underneath to “support” the bone and create a hollow) and where to swirl the blush (directly on top). And second, it shows you the angle of your cheekbone so you know the direction to apply it. Good stuff! Here’s how:

TOOLS:

STEPS:

  1.  Grab the pencil and place it along your cheek. Roll it up and down with your fingers flattened until you feel where the cheekbone is. Turn the pencil until it is exactly the same angle as the bone then roll it just below the bone so it’s touching it but just under it. That’s the “hollow” of your cheek and where your contour should go. The blush goes directly along the cheekbone (either only on your apple or along the cheekbone itself; I’ll post a comparison study of the two next week!). Take a mental photograph of the pencil’s placement and angle. Suck in your cheeks if that helps you see it as well. Press your thumb along the bone to really feel it too. My cheekbones (and most of my clients’) came in at 26. Until then, these techniques will help you find them.
  2. Follow the hollow by sweeping the contour cream or powder just underneath the cheekbone along the angle that you discovered with the pencil. as demonstrated by Chloe above. I always swirl the brush on the back of my hand after dipping it in the product to thin and even it out before I ever let it go near my face because nothing’s worse than a muddy contour!
  3. Switch to the blush brush and dip it in the blush. If it’s a cream blush, swirl it on the back of your hand, if it’s a powder blush, give it a couple taps against the counter to get rid of any excess. Swirl and stamp the brush along the cheekbone, just above the contour.

MIX IT UP!

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN BY EUNICE CHUN

Every day, depending on my mood, I change the way I line my eyes; and in doing so, it slightly changes how the shape appears! Here’s the deal — you can keep your true shape by lining the upper lashline making sure the line has the same width from corner to corner. For most of us, it rounds out the eye like an arc. If I want the shape to appear a little more almond-like (a little longer and less rounded), I go back and thicken the outer corners. Or if I want to really elongate the eye, I extend the line out and up into a cat eye. There’s so much we can do to play with our eye shape, this is just the beginning! But it’s a great place to start.

TOOLS:

TBDPlayingwithEyeShapeSTEPS

ROUNDED: Just line your upper lashline with the same thickness from corner to corner. You’ll notice it accentuates the roundness of the eye, making the outer corner appear to “droop” downwards a little. It’s still a very pretty look and I do it on myself all the time because it’s the natural shape of my eye and I love my eyes!

ALMOND: Now go back over the line you just drew by starting in the middle and building the thickness as you reach the outer corner. This makes the eyes appear more “open” and “awake” and hides the roundness a little as it makes them appear more almond-shaped.

ELONGATED: Extend the line by winging it out and up towards the end of your brow. This makes your eyes appear longer and (obviously) more stylized.

TBDPlayingwithEyeShapeCLOSE

TBDPlayingwithEyeShapeFINAL

 

How do you play with your eye shape? Do you have a favorite or are you like me and line depending on your mood? I’d love to know!! I can do another tutorial incorporating the lower lashline and the many ways to add it and how it changes the shape as well!

 

 

RESHAPE YOUR BROWS

 

PHOTOS/POST: KRISTIN ESS

TUTORIAL + PHOTOGRAPHY: AMY NADINE, GRAPHIC DESIGN: EUNICE CHUN

My brows naturally grow straight across. I love the straight brow trend on supermodels and of course always believe we should embrace what we have. But… you can cheat them a little with this technique I learned a few years ago from my brow guru Sarah Agajanian.

Here’s the trick: If you brush your brows a few times a day in direction you want them to grow, you’ll re-train the hairs to grow that way. I have to say I looked at her like she was living in a dream world but what did I have to lose? So I kept a spoolie on my vanity and every time I got out of the shower, I brushed them up and over. I did the same after washing my face. Then again before filling them in… basically any time I walked in the bathroom and looked in the mirror! It only took two seconds per brow so I didn’t mind. A couple months later I noticed I had a little more of an arch. A year later we couldn’t believe how much higher the arch looked. Maybe because the hairs now grew upward instead of over; I didn’t really care why, I just liked the way they framed my eyes differently. Then Sarah exaggerated the arch with her waxing magic and I had arched brows!

PHOTOS/POST: KRISTIN ESS

TOOLS:

PHOTOS/POST: KRISTIN ESS

 

PHOTOS/POST: KRISTIN ESS

I know you’re probably as skeptical as I was when I first heard about this trick! But try it for a few months and let us know if you notice a difference! Once you’ve trained the hairs to grow upward, you or your esthetician will have an easier shape to work with when waxing/tweezing/threading them.

PHOTOS/POST: KRISTIN ESS

For those of you asking about the lavender eye shadow from the Facebook, Instagram, Twitter and Pinterest posts (and the “Before A Date” shot above, it’s this one!