makeup

SEQUENCE OF STEPS

graphic design by eunice chun, post by amy nadine

I get a lot of questions from readers and clients wondering if there’s a specific order in makeup application and I always reply that there are no rules or laws in artistry, but after ten years of doing it as a profession, I’ve learned there is a sequence that will make it easier for you. And that sequence changes from day to night as the looks are very different. Makeup is a balancing act and you should determine which features you want to play up and always do them first and step back often between steps to evaluate and walk the line of defining and accentuating vs. looking too “done.”

Additionally, I’ve listed which type of product (cream vs. powder for example) I prefer to use in the daytime vs. the nighttime because the lighting during day hours (sunlight outside or horrific artificial lighting in offices + classrooms) is less forgiving and makeup shouldn’t be “in your face” noticeable. While nighttime lighting is moodier and more forgiving, giving you the opportunity to be more dramatic with your makeup. Ok, here we go:

DAYTIME ORDER

  1. Tinted Moisturizer or BB Cream Apply this first with a dampened sponge for more natural coverage.
  2. Cream Blush Using your fingertips, dab the cream onto the apples of the cheek for a sweet flush that looks like your blushing. You do this before your eye makeup because often when you see how pretty a little blush makes you feel, you’ll realize you don’t need a lot of eye makeup or lip color.
  3. Tinted Lip Balm There used to only be a couple brands that had a couple shades of tinted lip balm. Now some brands have 30 shades in different finishes! They are so perfect for daytime because they add little or a lot of sheer color that looks effortless. You do this step before doing the eyes as well because if you choose a bright color, you might also determine that you don’t need a lot of eye makeup.
  4. Brow Pencil This step isn’t necessary for those of you blessed with perfectly arched, full brows; but for the rest of us, a little definition goes a long way.
  5. Cream Shadow With your finger, apply a taupe, pearl or light gold cream shadow as a single wash of color on your lid and crease for an approachable look.
  6. Kohl Eyeliner This step isn’t necessary unless you feel your eyes look more awake or less rounded with a quick sweep of liner. Just make sure to really hide it in between your lashes then smudge it with a q-tip.
  7. Soft Mascara There’s nothing attractive about stiff or clumpy lashes in the middle of the day. Finish the look with a soft and “pet-able” mascara. If you don’t have one, just make sure to first press the wand into a tissue to get rid of excess product.

    8. graphic design by eunice chun, post by amy nadine

    NIGHTTIME ORDER

  1. Brow Powder I start with this step because it really frames the eye and because using a powder can be more dramatic, it helps you determine how much eye shadow you need.
  2. Eye Shadow Nighttime is the best time for a smoky look, and eye shadow powder is more blendable than cream shadow, the key to pulling off a smoky eye. Do this step next because powder can be messy and you don’t want it dropping and smearing in your foundation.
  3. Longwear Eyeliner Choose a longwear or liquid liner at night to really define your eyes and make it last.
  4. Volumizing Mascara Build those lashes up, but comb through any clumps that will ruin the look. Now is the best time to sweep away any eye shadow or mascara droppings that might have fallen below your eyes with a baby wipe.
  5. Foundation + Concealer Nighttime is the only time that you can get away with a fuller coverage foundation, so if you love the look of a flawless complexion, go for it. Just make sure to color match exactly and include your neck.
  6. Powder Set the foundation with a loose or pressed powder to mattify and perfect the look. This will also make the bronzer and blush go on more evenly.
  7. Bronzing Powder Use it to contour your cheekbones, temple, along the hairline, your nose and jawline. A Kabuki-style blush will make it better for blending.
  8. Powder Blush Use it to add a touch of color to the cheeks. You apply this before lipstick because again, if you have a little color in your cheeks, you can see how nude or light you can get away with on your lips.
  9. Lipstick Because you’ve smoked out and played up your eyes, step back and determine how much color you need on your lips.

** The only exception to the nighttime order is if you want to rock a red or bright lip, then you should apply lipstick as Step 1, so you can balance everything else around it.

 

hair

HOT CROSSED BUN (REMIX)

post/photos/design: Kristin Ess

Lately I’ve noticed lots of emails coming in with requests for shoulder-length hair tutorials. And while this tutorial is nothing different than the braided bun from last week, I wanted to show you just how do-able these tutorials are even if you don’t have long hair. We always want everyone to have a fair shot at looking gorgeous and just because it’s done on a girl with longer hair doesn’t mean you shouldn’t give it a try! The best part about any hair tutorial is modifying it and making it your own, right? I love when people tweet us a picture of a tutorial they tried where they added their own twist. It may not come out exactly the same, but it could sprout inspiration for something really cute! So let me show you how to get the “Hot Crossed Bun” look on short hair…

  1. Use a 1″ barrell curling iron to give the hair some wave when you’re trying to do an updo or chignon on short or fine hair. This will give it texture and bulk it up so you have more to work with.
  2. Add a little water-based texturizing pomade to the root for even more visible texture and bulk. You can see that her fine hair looks full in this photo, right? Now you have something to work with!
  3. Split the hair right behind your ears and push the front sections forward. Take the whole middle section/back and put it in a clear elastic.
  4. Wrap that into a little mini or messy bun. Just see what your hair will do. Every short haircut will do something a little different. If you need to add some hairspray to help, go for it! We did.
  5. Now do an inside-out french braid from the hair line back toward the bun. It’s okay if little pieces pop out. You can pin them at the end.
  6. Tuck the ends of the braid into the bun and secure it using a bobbypin or two or three.
  7. Repeat the previous braid on the other side and pin it into the bun as well.
  8. Pull some soft pieces out around the hair line for a more romantic vibe. Then pin in and spray any little unwanted pieces that might pop out.

GIVE IT A TRY! xo

makeup

TBD EYE FOCUS: EASY BROWS

photos + post by amy nadine, graphic design by eunice chun

We couldn’t believe how many emails we got asking how to do the brows from last week’s Mastering Falsies post, especially because we did them the easiest way out there… with a brow stencil! So I grabbed my cousin Emily again to show you exactly how simple it is to do.

TOOLS: Powder shadow in your exact brow shade or darker for more drama, a stiff-angled brow brush, a spooly or disposable mascara wand, tweezers and a brow stencil. We scored and used this kit that comes with all of it (and different stencil shapes, a wax to set them and a highlighter).

  1. With the spooly, comb your brow hairs up and over.
  2. Fit the stencil precisely where you want the shape of the brow to be, paying attention to the position of your own natural arch.
  3. With the stiff-angled brush, fill inside the stencil by shading the powder using small quick strokes.
  4. Let the new brow shape be your guide to stray any random hairs that are not part of it.

That’s it! I swear it really is as easy as it looks. Of course if you don’t want to go the stencil route, you can always use our Brows 101 guide that Lauren Conrad so kindly lent us her brows for too.

hair

NO PHOTOSHOP

photos/post/design: Kristin Ess

Obviously we love to use photoshop for hearts, stars, polka dots and handwriting on ALL of our posts, but we really do use it as little as possible for anything else. And while sometimes a stray hair or a hang nail’s gotta GO, it’s always better to deal with the issue before taking the picture. That being said, I thought I would let you guys in a little trick I used the other day when I shot this braid post. It’s so useful- whether you’re taking a photo or just going out with friends. Here’s the deal…

  • Of course with a braid or updo you want to see the hair go in different directions, but you don’t necessarily want to see shiny scalp. It distracts from the over all look, right? If you finish a hair style and look in the mirror and you see a strong part/scalp where you just don’t want to but you don’t want to start over, then don’t!
  • Spray the part lightly with a colored dry shampoo. I always have THESE ONES in my kit in every color. I don’t use them as a daily dry shampoo because I have another favorite for that, but I do love this to cover an unsightly part. You can also find them in travel size sometimes.
  • Lightly (don’t over do it because it will look chalky) spray the visible scalp line with a shot of the colored dry shampoo and the focus will be right back on the braid or updo where it belongs.